BluDestiny

Don't think anyone said crud in the lines yet. That's possible, but if you'd bleed them you'd know. Just an idea

It's a gas tank, you won't get much more for it if it looks smooth or not. Now if you cleaned, boiled, and coated the inside that would be another story.

Oh man. **** just got real lol. Yeah your z is awesome. Please excuse any comments that may seem inappropriate.

How about do a tune up? like oil change, spark plugs, probably new wires depending on how old they look, Coolant flush, new belts if the look old/are cracking. I'd also check all the suspension, like ball joints and bushings I noticed you said he added spark plugs and bushings. How long was it sitting though?

I went with a lightened Fidanza unit in my 280zx NA. Pretty stock car, and it doens't hinder driving at all, the car is my daily. I like to think it's one of those parts you only want to install once in a lifetime (depending how you drive) and from the above two responses +mine I would definitely install a lightened unit.

Same has been happening to me. It's been going in and out, like I'll read a page, refresh to the main forum page and get blocked.

http://www.iheartsta...arch/label/280z Saw a bit of her and her miata on speedhunters, then noticed the Z. Thought I'd share. She's from Auckland I think.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html This may not be 100% accurate, but close enough for me. You should have around an 8.7 c/r. Which is basically normal. F54's did come with dished pistons in the 81-83 turbo 280zx's. As for work on the head, you would need to take it off for valves and chambers, but you can see if they did any porting or a cam, and even if they shaved it by measuring the height of it.

You are so close and will have so much to show others (like me) when you figure this darn thing out. Keep at it.

pics?

I believe a member on this site makes high quality repro's. Just google/search for a bit.

Dammit, that's called the sandwich plate and I was hoping you would be the person to buy all that stuff off me lol, oh well. I couldn't find one just by itself so I bought everything. Now I can't get rid of it.

Hey everyone, So my car is currently in Burbank, CA and I go to school in Daytona Beach, FL. I'm studying abroad at the moment and I don't get back to the states till January 1st, and that is to Daytona Beach. Well I need my car in Daytona starting January 9th (first day of classes). So I could either fly home on say Jan. 2nd and do a leisure cruise cross country, which I don't really want to (it'd be my 6th time in this car), or hang out for a few days and do a mad 3 day dash cross country. Working it out a 1-way flight cost about $250 and a round trip cost $370. Driving cross country normally costs me about $300-400 for gas, food and a hotel or two. Or I could stay until January 8th and fly back and just have my car shipped, which I'd like to do. Now last time I had my car shipped (4 years ago in january) it cost about $800 for an open air transport and they picked it up at my house in Burbank and dropped it off at my house in Daytona Beach. I was wondering if there is a cheaper way to ship it, either with a company or like a partial train or something. If anyone has and ideas or even companies that they have used please let me know so I can start planning. edit: Just looked up a quote and it said $1200. I'm looking for a quote somewhere around $700-900 or cheaper. Heck if someone is traveling that way and can tow the car I'll pay you

I haven't done anything to my Z in almost 3 months. I'm currently studying abroad in Grenoble, France till end of this year and I'm itching to get back to it.

is this viscous or clutch type? what brand lsd? I don't think they ever had a factory r180 lsd, but I could be wrong. Where did you buy it? and how many miles where on it when you bought it? did you service it before you put it in or just drop it in? From you're description it sounds like something is loose, possibly a bearing like you stated, or it could have just loosened up after 25k miles. what about when you turn does it go away on when you turn a certain direction? How have you been driving it? streets only or track or a mixture? Lastly are you positive its the diff? have you eliminated a loose driveshaft/sideaxles and rear wheel bearings? Sorry for the barrage of questions but you didn't post a lot of info.

In all seriousness this is a personal question. You now know (if you didn't before) the benefits of going with fg or metal, you know your skills to fix either, or at least can find shops that would quote you, and we don't know what you are planning with the car, and when it gets down to it all the advice you are getting is from people who have different backgrounds/experience with either material. Might as well be a paper or plastic argument. That being said, I'd go with metal since dents I can work it better and then sell the fg ones for a profit.

You remove them from under the wheel wells. At least that was how my 260z was. Also you goal for getting the car to 2400 lbs is gonna be a big stretch. You should have just started with a 240-260z. The spare tire jack delete is not 40lbs fyi. More like 25. Your plans to keep it a nice "stage 1" (what does that really mean lol, just poking fun) daily is great. That is how I've had my 280zx for the past couple years, and it can smoke cars that are much more expensive at autocrossing. You do not need 3.1 liters to make power NA. I know a guy who is making 200whp with a 2.8. an over bore to 3.1L is for people with money. Also noticed you want to swap in a V8. That will definitely put you at whatever power you want to make, but you probably need a little more mechanical expertise. Also headers and a cold air intake look nice, and simplify the engine bay. For a while I was running the stock headers with the flange cut to use 2.5" piping and it felt the same, but the sound is way different. One last thing, don't get discouraged. I got my first Z when I was 16 also, my friend basically gave me his 280zx because the motor was blown and it was taking up space. At this point I'd like to think of myself as pretty knowledgeable on S30 and S130's. So stick with it.

Ok well the pictures in the link Newzed posted enlarge fine. They open up like the picture was uploaded to the site, not using a third party picture host such as photobucket or something. The pictures in this thread though I can not open or do anything with: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109944-its-a-drifted-bastard-280zx/ The mouse icon does turn to a hand, like something is going to happen, but when I click nothing happens.

Not sure if this is just me, but I can't enlarge any of the thumbnail pictures in threads anymore. or is there a trick to this now?

please use smaller pictures. I can't see the epicness

I bought my webers 5 years ago complete with a polished intake manifold and dirty K&N filters for about $650, one of the carbs had a hole in one of the Floats though, which I knew about. I'd expect a set that is "bolt on and run" (although it's never that easy) should go for around $700-800 if they look like **** but work and $1000 if they look like they've been serviced. It also depends on what kind of manifold is being used, what size they are, how they are jetted and filters if any can have even a little impact. Also this should be in the Parts Wanted section.

This was taken directly from the page "While a stock ignition will work with Webers a high performance ignition is highly recommended to manage the extra fuel mixture they supply. If you have a 240Z distributor I suggest replacing the points with a Pertronix unit paired with a MSD 6A or similar. If you're lucky enough to have a 1976-83 280Z(ZX) distributor these can be easily wired into a MSD to create a full electronic ignition." So yeah your dizzy will work fine. I don't see anything about a list of things needed to set up the dizzy. He actually had a 240z originally with a points dizzy, and upgraded to the 280zx E12-80 dizzy. He does however talk about locking the dizzy to get the most out of the carbs, as NewZed mentioned. That is far different then getting it "just to work".

wait was this in like your front yard or a race track or garage? I don't even know where something like this could happen. What kind of situation was this?

There was someone on this board that actually converted the Subie axles to work/mate up correctly. they had a writeup also, to lazy to look, but I know it exists. Scratch that I found the thread in 30 seconds on google. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73182-subaru-sti-r180-differential-and-axle-conversion-revised/

Will we need all those washers or can that be fixed with just a shorter bolt? lol