BluDestiny

Yes it is exactly where the vacuum for the fpr is plugged into. about to start it and pull that vacuum line and see whats up. edit: pulled the vacuum line right at the fpr and guess what? NewZed wins a cookie, gas spilled out. So I'm going to try and find a cheap fpr at autozone.

No go, when I went to start it up this after a slight cool down ( temp gauge had just moved past the 120* mark) it was just like when I first started it up. It wouldn't hold idle, and the intake got cold near the middle again. Does anyone know why this is happening? here is a pic so you don't think I'm crazy. I'm trying a new tps tomorrow and if that doesn't work then turbo swap.

+1 for ingenuity leon. I would be afraid of murphy's law with that setup.

well after messing with it more, I've set the idle at 900 and changed the tps a more to the middle. It seems to start up and idle, but I haven't let it fully cool down. There are no vacuum leaks thank gosh, I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere to try and find one. Still getting hesitation at like 75% throttle, but full throttle is good and so it just slowing climbing up. I still think it has something to do with the a/f ratio. I will report more in a few hours once it's cool.

well after more coaxing, and probably burning off all the excess gas that was in the cylinders I did get it to run. The idle screw was just really turned in and that's probably why I didn't notice an effect. It pretty much runs and drives but..... I still have a few problems. I managed to get it to idle, like I said, but once I try and adjust the screw down to 750rpm it will start acting like its being choked. This AFM doesn't have an adjustment screw like my old one, so the idle screw on the throttle body is the only thing I can use. Now if the idle is up at 1000-1100rpm it will run and start no problem, but when I floor it, I get a lot of hesitation from 3000rpm-3500rpm or until I shift into second. this only happens on 1st. But when I adjust the idle down to 750 rpm it will not have any hesitation, but will not start on its own ( I need to give it gas). I haven't ruled out a leak, so I'm going out now to test with some carb cleaner. and probably sand a few more connections down.

ok so I got the new afm in and it sounds smoother, but it still won't for the love of me idle. It just keeps dying. I used a 2x4 to chock the pedal at around a 1000 rpm idle. I messed with the idle screw which helped some, but messing with the tps or the o2 sensor does nothing. If I remove the chts it dies, and likewise if I unplug the afm it does. One other strange fact, the intake near the 4th ( counting front of engine to back) runner is cold. Like 30 degrees colder than rest of the intake. It actually started to form condensation. Does anyone have any ideas?

So you should probably find one that works..... I'm not sure if you mean that you're going to be getting one or not? So you're talking about a cold start injector? Some thing adds fuel when the cars cold, but after it warms up it stops adding extra fuel? I don't know about your weather, but I live in a very temperate climate and the only difference I noticed without my cold start is a low idle for about 30-60 sec before the temp guage started moving. Honestly that shouldn't matter half the time since warmup is a very small portion of actually driving your car.

I believe the tps works like a switch, either on idle, or not on idle. The Bcdd (Boost control decel device) is the main item that controls your decel in a stock efi car. It is normally attributed to giving a high idle if it leaks or is gunked up and stuck. http://www.zdriver.com/forum/280zx-s130-forums-77/bcdd-block-off-34704/ Speaking of which what kind of car is it? what kind of engine management, if any, are you using?

Seems to be spark. Try opening the throttle body and spraying some carb cleaner in there and see if you can get it to fire. Also double check all the wires to the dizzy and the coil. If you have the fsm, test them both. Wouldn't help to check the plugs while your at it. My car has a tendancy to eat dizzy caps and rotors. After say 10k miles it would literally corrode the points and burn the rotor. I'm guessing its because of my aftermarket coil though.

Waiting for the video

Is this with carbs or stock EFI? I know its a 280z, but just want to make sure.

Before you got it running, would the key at least turn on the lights and such? or did all this happen only after you did a tune up?

sanded heavily with 220 then 400. I used the can attachment to make it way easier. First time I've used one and it made a world of difference vs the time I tried it with my 2+2

Changed my chts and it was bone dry. Car hadn't been started for a few days. I'm guessing coolant drains from the head into the block? Sidenote, car ran better, but is still having trouble revving. I'll replay with a new afm on monday.

OK so I found someone selling the correct afm part number for pretty cheap. I had to get my friend to check the afm that I use don his car since it was originally mine. Anyway I changed the chts and it ran a lot better. Still not perfect, like I wouldn't drive it somewhere. I'll post again on Monday when I have get my new afm in the mail. Couple questions, when I changed the chts it was bone dry. Does that mean the head coolant drains into the block? Sounds like a noob question, but its the first time I replaced it.

While we are on the topic, can someone verify if the chts reading is used for fuel calculation? My car is running very rich and the chts is giving low resistance. Does it tell the ecu that the cars cold so dump more fuel? My afm is also off, but could a junk chts throw off the fuel reading by a notable difference?

The cylinder head temp sensor is on the side and had a 2 pin connection. The water temp sender located on the thermostat housing only has 1 pin. So if you can look at their website and see if they have a pic. I know AutoZone did.

How is this affecting your car?

Bump. Really need this. It has 5 pins on the bottom if that makes a difference.

I got mine from a local place in my town that my muffler shop recommended. It was called Deeds Automotive, and they are a father/son service shop, but the son is really good with the cnc machine and manufactures all types of flanges and clamps. Their particular vband clamp has a "male and female" end. So one has an indent and the other has a ring sticking out so they mate perfectly. Makes it a piece of cake. I'm pretty sure it only cost me around $40-50 for a single 2.5" clamp I'd give them a call: http://www.yelp.com/biz/deeds-automotive-service-burbank

Been awhile since I had strut cartridges in my ZX but can you just swap out the top hat like in the rear for coilovers?

Yeah kinda short lived. I can't order a new afm from MSA since they need the part number and my afm had the sticker scratched off. So I'm basically gonna start converting to turbo. Sooner than I expected but meh. Should be fun.

From recently messing with my afm, I can tell you that the afm uses an air temperature sensor right before the flap. Mine basically has less resistance then needed and now the car runs rich and can't rev past 2500 rpm. I would take the afm out and test the air temp sensor. I can upload a picture of what pins you need to test and what resistances you need.

If you're going to all the trouble of putting on a fuel rail, do you really want something that looks like that hanging near the firewall? If you have the cash just get an aeromotive or fuellab fpr. You don't really "tune" anything. Just prime it to get pressure up, start the car and adjust the fuel pressure while its running.

Just realized that I am using my 81 egr GL model 280zx afm. So if you have one of those, which is much more common, I can use that too.