BluDestiny

what did you do to make it idle at 650? or does it start like that then jump to 1000?

Looks good, I'm amazed no one has asked if there are any rust issues.

Do you know how much it was shaved? like just a simple mil job or was this to increase compression? It should idle at around 700-800rpm, The idle screw on your motor should be near the TB, but not on it, if you have a p79 intake.

ok the stock efi system is damn near bullet proof because it's so simple. Have you done any modifications? like shaving the intake or removing anything that could effect normal operation like the EGR valve? If not then I would start by checking all vacuum lines, then the electrical connections, then testing the resistance of sensors. You should literally be able to solve almost any problem related to the EFI with what I just said. It could also be something like your coil is dying, or you have blockage in your exhaust (old exhausts tend to rust and flake off impeding your exhaust flow), or even timing if its really bad.

This is an awesome build

Well you should probably get an A/F gauge if you think the cause is the mixture. We can't feel over the internet....yet. Speaking of which, we are also not physic. What kind of car/engine/fuel system(efi or carbs, stock or not) are you using.

That thread is also pretty helpful, but the one I'm talking about was on Zcar and it was much older, it had a picture and labeled the sensors on the picture and talked about what position they were at using time (the sensor at 1 o'clock etc). I don't think the picture made it though since I found a similar thread but the pic link was broken

About $150 to $200 in a used condition and more if they are "fresh and tight", but they are less likely to pop up on say craigslist. You should actually be looking into the 240sx KA tranny swap since its very possible to find a KA tranny for $100 to $150 and they are literally everywhere. I actually got my KA tranny from a junkyard on a half off day for $60 (its in FL though). What happened to your auto? I thought you got it working quite well

Do you do all the porting yourself? nice job. This is a pretty awesome project

I agree with newzed, but the the top right in my 280zx is actually a temp sender to my cold start injector. I know there is a picture of all of these labeled somewhere. I found it once when someone asked the same question. It may have been on Zcar.com though

wait the s14 has an SR stock? I know most people who swap out KA's for sr20's still use the KA tanny modded with the SR20 bellhousing, which means it's still a KA tranny gear case (which is the only real part you need). I would double check that it's a KA tranny. Edit: found this http://forums.nicoclub.com/ka-vs-sr-tranny-t391988.html they say the gear cases is exactly the same for early Sr's an Ka's, only need to swap the bellhousing (SR bellhousing for an Sr motor, KA bellhousing for a Ka motor) so it should work. Worst case just ask him what the tranny stamp is, and if he doesn't even know what that is walk away since he's a retard

Bumping up this awesome thread. People who want 300hp NA should read this

That's super awesome, Could you do a write up? and what is the plan for your rears?

I'd like to say they are M12x1.50, could someone confirm

Did you ever get your exhaust on?

Brakes are fairly decent as is, they work well for autocrossing. you really only need pads. That being said I would do suspension next. They will make a more noticeable difference than brakes. If you're not looking at anything too crazy, just do some tokico blues and tokico springs.

Pics? that's pretty crappy

Wow great job, is all this skill hobby related or is this your profession? because the restoration is very well done.

yeah the bad word filter is on the fritz and also I'm seeing a lot of "no permission" pictures for peoples avatars.

Necro post. Check the date of the original post man, I'm sure its long gone

I don't think this link is on here yet. I read about this while I was having my tires mounted a shop 10 min away from my house. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1105_leaf_blower_supercharger/viewall.html If it's on here please forgive me. Thought it was fitting for this thread.

Well first you need to figure out where that e33 head came from since it doesn't exist. For the block, get new everything( bearing and rings etc) You don't need forged pistons, and you could even bore it out a little. To anyone that tells you to get forged pistons: That depends on what rpm he is going to be making power. A perfectly matched cam can easily make enough power below 7k rpm. Stick with the P90, and shave it, and get it professionally ported. Then match a sufficient cam to it. I've only met one person who was right around the 200whp mark with SU's. If you went with Triples then that's an everyday thing. My friend is making 216whp with mikuni's with his new motor and the most important and costly part was the machine work on the head/cam.

First off what is wrong with your head/engine that makes you want to change it? I'm assuming E88 in which case yeah the intake an exhasut will bolt up, but you will have a lot of other problems to deal with. The work you are describing with the longer valves and stuff is similar to this mod: SO WHAT ARE YOU ACTUALLY DOING IN THE MOD? - shaving the head .080" - installing '75-78 valves which have .080" longer stems - shimming up the cam towers .080" - shimming up the spring bases by .080" Which is found here: http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/index.htm And finally, why would you do this to an L26. Get an L28 they are about $150 for a longblock.

That actually sounds like when I first got my car running with just headers on. Turned out I had routed the fuel lines wrong and was starving the engine of gas (I think). I had it run from the pump, to the FPR then to the fuel rail with a dead end. Not sure if that's flooding or starving the engine of gas

Custom wheels? I'd go with a 16x8.5 with -19 offset in the front . That's 4.25 inches of backspacing. I'd also run 225/50, not stretched since I want grip.