BluDestiny

These car have air flow meters, not mass air flow meters. There is a big mechanical difference. But they function the similarly. If it s been sitting that long use some diesel oil to clean it out. In fact there was a thread somewhere on here about what oil to use. Just use plain green radiator coolant. Wash it out thoroughly with water to get any rust out if you can. Check if the engine turns by hand first. If it doesn't the rings could have rusted to the cylinder walls. so pour a little marvel mystery oil in through the spark plug holes and see if you can rotate the crank with both you're hand first (spark plugs still out). Buy a used AFM (not MAF) from a member. It's a lot cheaper and it will get the car running. At this point I should ask if you want to do an engine swap at some point, since there would be no point in buying a new AFM if you're gonna swap it anyway. Most people like fitting the early 240z bumpers, they are thinner and sleeker. They also make fiberglass repro's http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7BSA01 for rims and tires you need to tell us what you're suspension plans are. Coil overs will give you the most clearance, but are not bolt in. Tokico struts and springs will give less clearance but will bolt right in. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOKICO-ILLUMINA-KIT-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-NISSAN-260Z-280Z-74-78-/270965519990?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f16cdb676&vxp=mtr#ht_639wt_1111 You won't find a turbo kit anywhere, just piece it together. The 280'zx were turbo'd 81-83 so find a donor car and have at it. Many people make disc brakes for the rear. Expensive ones are from Arizona Z car, cheaper ones from Silvermine, and then the do-it-yourself kit can be pieced together from junkyard parts. Best advice: read, on every subject you asked about there is a thread probably in the faq section for it. faq section is at the top of the forum main page.

depending on the offset and your suspension set up you can either have them tucked under the stock fenders, or make them stick out aith some wide flares. Do some research and check out the wheels show thread.

Psh I run a 10" wheel in my ZX with no power steering, with 225's up front. No real problem but I've subconsciously learned to start creeping and turning at the same time.

Could you resize the pictures? They're too big to make anything out.

The original silver is a little light for those black accents in my opinion. You could defiantly pull it off, but more attention would be on the gloss black. The original silver looks good with chrome, if it was darker then it would be perfect with gloss black. But I bet someone has done this already and will post a pic of a sweet looking Z with a bright silver and black bumpers.

Yes, when I got the car I had to take the intake and exhaust mani off and we redid everything. Had to recheck it all again. Anyway the problem got progressively worse and it started choking out at 2k instead of 3k. Back to where it was originally. I was trying to convince him to go mega squirt, but he doesn't want to deal with the learning curve so I think he's gonna drop it off at sim tech in Santa clarita. For those of you who know the owner Craig is a great guy, and he's gonna try and do a turnkey setup for about $3000. Yes my friend is a tard. Lol but we will see when it gets done.

I'm gonna do a stock turbo conversion, then maybe megasquirt. Initial reason I did mine was to make it look clean and it defiantly worked. Pharao yeah I did not really get any hp benefits from it, but I already knew that I wouldn't.

So that's what was wrong with it lol. In California if it was never registered and it was not put into "non op" then you get charged registration fees yearly. No way that I know of getting out of paying it. Then again that's why most people don't date the title when they sign. A little side story, my friend was given a 240sx for some work and found out it had $400+ in back registration. So he went and bought a clean shell for $250 and transferred everything over to the new shell. I'm thinking of picking up the car with backfees to use as a track car.

Yeah I love the headlight covers, but I hate the weight from the front bumper and I really don't like the look of the lip. Just gott wait and find something special

I believe the bolt pattern to the Brake booster is different. That's why they use the 79-81. I've never had an 82-83 so I can't say for sure, but I know the bolt pattern of the MC from a 79-81 does work ( with some slight modification).

Is it like a metal rattling sound? or like the bearings are going out? Also how many mile were on the dif? Did you open it up before you put it in? What fluid are you using? I have the same dif in my 280zx and it had about 100k miles on it ( front diff probably a lot less) I opneed it and there was some sparkle to the old oil but nothing major. Filled it up with some redline and it was fine when I started driving, but after about 10k miles its making a rattling noise WHEN WARM. When it's cold it perfectly fine.

This is what my car is running off of. 80 280zx, did not come with an EGR in the first place so I swapped the manifold out for an N42. the only ports in the manifold I use are the brake booster, FPR port, charcoal canister, PCV on the bottom, and the crank case to the throttle body. I removed the idle up for cold mornings and the 7th injector.

You can not simply drop the diff in. The rear mount is different and the length. I was toying around with the idea of making some type of cradle to hold it and simply get a longer driveshaft and axles, but it would have been too much fabrication and I needed the car running.

Put an add up in the cars wanted section. And search on here, zcar.com, craigslist, etc...

What kind of car? going carbed or efi? staying with the L28 or swapping in something else?

You may have to spend a little more for a running driving one. I would look around the $1000 range. I don't know what shipping would cost, but it would be a lot. More than the price of the car.

Save all body panels, hatch, doors, and 1/4 windows. Those are 2+2 specific and are a rarity if they are straight and rust free

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Just for reference this is how bad my FPR was:

OK sooooo some things have changed. First things first is my whole debacle where my car was not running right. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108168-dies-on-start-without-gas-1980-280zx-na/ Turned out the diaphragm in my aeromotive FPR was torn and was leaking fuel into the intake, great. So I ordered one and swapped it in. Ran great. 6 hours later I started my cross country drive back home to Los Angeles. This was August 9th First day I drove 15 hours, with like 4 hours for breaks (eating, stretching, bathroom, gas etc..). No problems and I thought I was doing good. Stopped just before Houston TX to sleep for the night. Wake up the next day at 7am to start off and I go through my checklist: Tire pressure, leaking fluids/puddles/ start her up and wait for sounds etc...Well I checked the tread on my tires since I knew they were wearing down on the inside. They had worn down so much in the 1100 miles I drove that they were cupping ( on the inside) and the deep parts were showing chord. Yeah wasn't gonna be finishing the trip on those. Called around tires shops and found a discount tire about an hour away that had a pair of Falken Azenies that would fit the rear. They were 255/50/16. They also had a set to replace the front (225/50/16) so I decided to buy a full set and keep the fronts to sell to my friend when I got back. As I was travelling though texas, temps got up to 110* in some areas. In fact around 3 pm when I pulled off to a gas station my car just died. Couldn't start it at the stop sign, so I got out and pushed it into the gas station. Put some gas in and cleaned the windshield and it started, but there was a bad whirring sound coming from the fuel pump. so I parked it in the shade and let it cool off for about an hour. started up and it stopped making that sound, so I took off. I made it to about 150 miles outside of El Paso, right after it got dark, and then it happened. I was trying to pass someone and as I was passing them a rock came out of nowhere on my lane. Couldn't switch so I lined it up and took it. Busted the hell out of my front end I was super pissed. the turn signal housing actually started to drag about 2 hours later as I would find out when border patrol asked me what happened. I do most of the traveling at night when its cool, since I'm worried about the fuel pump. Haven't had a problem while it was cold though so I thought nothing of it. I take a nap and make it to Pheonix AZ at 10am ( it's already over 100 by that time) and when I pull off the freeway, bam, car dies. get stuck in a major intersection, pull of as much as I could to let traffic pass and let it sit. Notify my uncle I'm in town with a broke down car. Right before he shows up I get it started, drive it to a parking lot and shut it off. They show up and I tell him about it and we agree to let it sit. Well when we come back it starts, but it makes it about half a block before it dies at a stoplight. So I figure the fuel pump is dead. We stop by an autozone and pick one up. Thankfully my Uncle paid. Swap that in and bam it works fine, but a dust storm has shown up so I get to spend the night at my Uncles. Leave at 3am and make it back to LA Sunday morning August 12th. Not to bad, but my fastest time yet and it would have been faster if my fuel pump hadn't gone out. At this point that engine, has made it cross country 7 times, and 2 times for the car. So while I'm back I decide to look for a new front to replace my smashed up one. I end up getting new headlight buckets with covers, stock front bumper, and a front lip. Just got that on this morning actually. Here are some pics: Now I look just like every other 280zx Oh well.

Yes a welded dif is fine, watch out for rain/water, you'll get chirping at low speeds blah blah blah you've probably heard it. I'm pretty sure JohnC used a welded diff or autocrassing at some point.

Well it revs up fine, and to get the car running we had to drop the tank, clean it, blow air through the lines etc... Last time my friend checked it has 30-35 psi using a fuel pressure tester from autozone. The idle screw is ALL THE WAY IN which to my understanding is making it richer(?) with the idle screw out it idles at like 2000rpm. But I can not find a vacuum leak, although there could be one inside the throttle body ( like I said it has 2 throttle valves)

Ok so I took out all the jdm stuff (harness, ecu, intake and trottle body) and tried to start it with the my 81 USDM stuff and that was a no go. So I threw all the JDM stuff back in, after cleaning it, and it worked fine. Drive it around all day. No idea why Well this morning, I started her up and as I pull away from my house it has the same problem, just cuts at a certain rpm and goes to idle. Well I got it back in and took a short vid. You can see me holding the throttle down and it just goes back to idle then "remembers" the throttle is down. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this? like I said it was running fine yesterday and I literally drove it for about an hour, didn't take it on the freeway, but ran errands in it.

Possibly because of the overfill its leaking out the rear, where the input from the driveshaft is coming from. Is it leaky when its just sitting or when it moves? It could be sloshing around. Not too familiar with these auto trannies