BluDestiny

23zed can you provide some more pics of the front splitter? I want to see where you attached it to the gnose

Yes the muffler will fit, there is plenty of room back there. You could also just bring it to a decent muffler shop/welder and they may have some cats/mufflers on hand. The one in my town has basically a wall of mufflers and cats. As for how much it will cost, cross check the prices on amazon. Just plug in the part number and it should come up. Cats are pretty pricey though (compared to a muffler). I'd expect whatever the cost of the parts and tubing, plus 2 hours of labor. If you bring the car to them with the exhaust off maybe even less.

Manual locks. If it does have remote locks its probably aftermarket.

Old starter maybe? sounds like something is impeding the starter from turning the flywheel when it's warmed up. Auto or Manual?

yes, now the price on used GP2's will drop.

You have the POS power steering with the box? That's why it doesn't work. It would be easier to just fabricate some kind of spacer to get some more clearance.

Floorless, it depends on the condition and the amount of hardware you have to go with them. Also if they are the ones that bolt to the hatch or slip underneath the rubber seal. The ones that slip under the rubber seal and look flush can go from $50-150 from what I've seen. The other ones people just give away practically.

I would suspect it may have something to do with ECU. I know the 83 is finicky and that they have a specific ECU only for an 83. That could be a reason why the fuel pump is hooked up to a switch because either it doesn't have the correct pin or he swapped the AFM out and it doesn't have the correct pin. read this: http://www.zdriver.com/forum/280zx-s130-forums-77/83-280zx-starts-stalls-right-away-help-32091/ I would personally still check the FPR and fuel lines for proper pressure so make sure your not killing them with fuel pressure. One more question how long have you had the car? like when you got it it was having this problem once a week, but now it does it every day. How long did that take? months or weeks of owning the car?

Highly doubt its a sensor. Before you explain nay further, we need to know if this is a stock car or a modified one. Did the PO tell you anything at all that was either changed or modified in the engine bay? Did he tell you of any parts he replaced? Can you get in contact with him and find out why he is using a switch for the fuel pump? Are there any modification in the fuel system other than the switch to power the fuel pump? Could be something as simple as a broken FPR or even the injecotrs being stuck open, or it could be your ECU is fubar. We need more info. I'm banking on a more mechanical problem, such as stock injectors or the FPR being crap.

I would take an inch off the front wheels, a little less staggered. Also I would use the 225 on the fronts, but a 245 on the rears. But yeah I would do the wheel mod last, after everything is together to make sure it clears the brakes, and then test fit with the flares mounted so you can really decide how much you need removed from the front pair.

You can rebuild the turbo yourself if your a little mechanically inclines. I know akumazedex rebuilt his with a gpop rebuild kit. http://gpopshop.com/rebuild-kits/ An FMU is a Fuel Managment unit, which like your RRFPR, increases in fuel as the pressure in the manifold increases. I've never dealt with a RRFPR before so I'm not sure if it will work or not. Also PM cygnusx1, since he's done this with a few cars.

Still running the NA ecu? This is more of a question of reliability, since I may just end up doing this before I get around to a full standalone swap.

This is such a cool swap.

The rotor hats have different "offsets". The 280zx I'm sure is deeper (taller or whateveryou want to call it) than a 240sx. That's problem 1. The second problem is that even if it did match up, you'd need to make a bracket to space out the caliper or else it wouldn't even match with the new diameter.

Well he said he's trying to do this with stock components which can probably be done, but you should get a FMU that's like 8:1. That would help more than your RRFPR. As for the turbo I've heard that they are pretty useless after 15psi, so whatever you're boosting keep that in mind, if your near the upper limit I would just spend the money on a more efficient turbo. And injectors wouldn't hurt, 440cc injectors will leave you with room to grow later on. The external wastegate is only if you go with a turbo that doens't have an internal one, such as some holsets. Search, I believe there was a thread on this in the past 4 months somewhere, some asked pretty much the same thing and someone answered with a very specific list of what the guy needed. A FMU was part of that to keep the fuel flowing on and off boost.

When you get a set with the right clearances could you take a pic of it installed on a 280zx?

With springs and struts yes, if you go coilovers you can get more wheel under the car. I have coilovers and run a 16x10 in the rear with 0 offset. Could probably run -13 and get away with it. My fronts on the other hand are 16x8 -13 and are very close to hitting my rolled fender and my coilovers. But I have no pull anywhere.

You'll need a much more negative offset. My coilover perches get in the way with am 8in wide wheel with 4in of backspacing (-13 offset). so you need at Either way you will need to modify the fender, either an overflare or an extreme pull. The answer is you need between 3.5 and 4in of backspacing, which would be like -38 to -51, but it will stick out from the fender about 1.5-2 inches Why are your running 10's in the front? and why are you still on stock springs?

I've been following you in ratsun, saw the carnage and read about the re-shelling. It's been a really long rollercoaster for you. You're thread won't get kicked off here because you have a slammed car, it will more than likely get kicked off from bad grammer, text language and randomness. Ratsun is the place for that. I'm not a nazi and don't care either way (I'm 22 and go on many stupid websites), I go to ratsun to read awesome asse builds like yours and PPK's, but hybridz is a really technical place, and it does set the bar as the technical forum for early Z's. Think of it as grade school Tball vs new york yankees (breaking bad reference). You seriously have an awesome ride and hit some trouble spots, but it's coming together nicely.

You could also be a little more descriptive, like is it a certain rpm that it's dying or just full throttle vs half throttle?

I used to get a lot of random chatter when I would fill up for gas in my 260z, but not as much in my 280zx. A lot of " I used to hit 140 back in the day, couldn't be beat blah blah blah"

both my 280zx's had them. They were mounted using rivets. To remove I just drilled them out and filled in the hole with a welder and ground that down and smoothed with bondo. Took me about half a day to do everything since I had to bring it to my friends place to weld the holes.

Valve cover breather is under a vacuum, that's why it's supposed to go to the intake. and that's also why the pcv should be easier to open, it has a vacuum acting on it since it's connected to the intake. The crank case can build up pressure, and if you can blow open your pcv valve with your breath, then it's more than likely good. It is possible for gunk to get in the spring area and harden from what I've been told. Never experienced it myself.

Keep it up, I want to see a detailed install into the car. You can never have enough writeups

Well that could be from bad toe also. What is your suspension like? is it lowered? How are the rear control arm bushings?