mikeatrpi

Thanks fellas. I appreciate the kind words especially considering the quality of cars owned by yourselves and others on this site!

Well after almost 9 months since I sprayed it, I finally wet sanded and buffed my 82. This is PPG Omni single stage acrylic enamel (hence the long wait time). I sanded with 3M paper 1500 and 2000 grits, then buffed with Meguiar's #85, #83, and #3. What a TON of work! http://z.modeltrainguide.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album39 Thanks Ernie for the tips painting and Austin for posting the thread when you buffed your blue paint job. I found it very inspirational and helpful.

Well, I use a grill igniter on mine and haven't had any problems. I actually stuck the igniter inside the chamber, but I've seen people put bolts through the sides and wire it up (like you would your taser). I'm surprised the camera wasn't enough zap for you. If you get a 2nd or even third camera as donors you can piggy back the capacitors in parallel. Not series- you want them in parallel. It will take longer to charge if you do this. And, if your solder joints aren't good they'll blow apart after a few discharges (that's the voice of experience). Disclaimer... I'm an EE but I do digital stuff!

http://z.modeltrainguide.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album34 Pics from the show. Dave and others, it was unfortunate you couldn't attend. There are 6 z-cars there and plenty of other amazing automobiles!

Absolutely sand it off. Rustoleum is oil based. I used rustoleum aerosol primer on my cars, and then I sprayed a coat of epoxy primer over it. The epoxy wrinkled and lifted within minutes. I ended up sanding all of the aerosol off the car. Then I had to clean the surface really well. Rustoleum has its place, but not on anything you plan to topcoat- in my opinion!

Make sure it comes with the gas regulator too. (and of course the mig cable and gun, and work clamp)

I'll add that if you're going to build a booth do it like Ernie and make it strong. I cheaped out and made mine out of thin PVC. My booth was outside, and the wind shook the plastic sheeting until it tore itself to death. I ended up tearing down the booth in a fit of frustration and did without. Lesson learned; if you're going to do something do it right.

Bump, price goes up the 18th.

Your car is too nice to be a track only car.

http://www.hemmings.com/events/limerock.html Several folks from the zcar.c site will be there. Let's get some Hybrids there too. It should be a good time! PS - my car is more of a driver than a show car... I've been told that's OK. Looking forward to meeting some of you!

I'm no expert... But I believe the flex additive only assists with the initial drying. IE, use it if you paint the bumper off the car and it will flex a LOT in the next day when you install it. I've been told that flex additive, fisheye eliminator, etc, are all unnecessary... but I'd imagine there's some sort of Great Debate about that amongst the pro's. I painted my Z in separate pieces in my backyard. I did 1 coat of epoxy and one or two light coats of primer on the bumpers and rubber trim. I didn't use any additives. Had no trouble installing them... then again, not much stuff flexes on my zx. I also repainted the front bumper of my mazda 626- one of the new style bumpers that is plastic. I washed it, scuffed it with scotchbrite, wiped it with rubbing alcohol to kill the static, sprayed a coat of bulldog (adhesion promoter), 1 coat of epoxy, and then my paint. Again no additives. Also, I wouldn't use the duplicolor paint. Its lacquer based, I believe. I'd also avoid rustoleum. A budget paint like PPG Omni won't cost much and he'll be able to get the color matched. I've sprayed both the urethane and acrylic enamel... I liked the AU better than the AE, and the AU is only marginally more expensive.

A friend bought a HH140 refurb "B" from toolking.com and has been happy with it. I've seen, and run, the unit. It has some cosmetic blemishes and the grounding cable had spatter. Other than that I don't think he's had problems since. http://www.toolking.com/category.aspx?categoryID=323 FWIW, I have a Lincoln SP100T that I bought as a refurb a few years ago from weldingmart.com, and absolutely love it. I couldn't tell it was refurbished.

Welcome! Gotta ask how you got involved in that occupation... it is certainly unique.

It screams "Scam" to me... but, I have no first hand experience.

Yes I think you got a good deal. Between the two cars you will be able to make one good one plus recoup some cash. I'd 86 the louvers but that's just me. How's the rust situation? You know, floor, subframe rails, front frame rails, tail light housing, doglegs, lower fenders, rear quarters, wheel arches, battery tray...?

Thanks for the tips so far. I'm planning to use my stock NA motor (forgot the block and head codes) and add a turbo to it. I will continue my research and scouring the archives...

What's the deal with all of the Holset turbo's on EBay? It seems as though there are plenty of sub $100 turbos with shaft play and possibly in need of a rebuild- a roll of the dice? Then for a little more, $100-150, there are turbo's pulled from running trucks in usable (their words) condition. Walk away or buy it now? I am looking to adapt my NA motor to a turbo. I received some sage advice on the "how to", and learned that it is possible but not ideal to turbocharge an NA motor as long as boost is kept relatively low. Would a small Holset (H1C for instance) work for me? How do I know what type the hot side flange is? I can fab my own plumbing, but would prefer to use a stock 280zx turbo manifold for ease.

Opel GT with flares, cage, deep metallic blue paint, and a... Ford 351W? Think it would fit ??? edit- and sidepipes... or a side exit exhaust... I can't decide

You can roll the car up onto some 1x6, maybe then you can fit your floor jack under without using the scissor lift. I jack the rear under the diff, and put the stands on the suspension mount points in back. I jack the front under the cross member, usually one side at a time. Again, stands on thick suspension pieces.

Sorry I didn't realize "hx35" meant "Holset".

That's pretty swift. You do good work. What kind of turbo is that?

"body work business" huh...?

EE. I design computer chips.

Not I.

Opens and closes the floor air vents.