NewZed

You want this then - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121613-s30-ultimate-88-irs-swap-kit/?do=findComment&comment=1137567

The Chequered Flag Joe kit is probably the way to go then, if you can confirm that he checked everything for binding. That's the problem people run in to. Or pulling the axles out of the diff because the CV's are too short. That's the other problem. Also it's not clear that the new axles are stronger than the factory axles. You haven't said though, that you're looking for stronger, so who knows. Here's his other web page - http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html Call him up.

I wonder if you could add diesel to E10 to get back to the energy content of old formula gasoline? The volatility loss might not let it work though. On the previous point about solvent effectiveness - it depends on what's being dissolved. On the idea of using phase separation with water to pull ethanol from E10 - you'll probably end up with less ethanol in the fuel but more water, and still some ethanol. And the hydrocarbon portion of the fuel will be fully loaded with as much water as it can hold. A few heating-cooling cycles in the tank and moisture from the air that gets pulled in will start phase separating to the bottom of your tank.

That's the "hanger" for where the back two bushings of the control arms mount. The "dog bone" connects them. Basically angling the control arm down at the back unless work was done on the front also. Maybe why the spindle bolt broke out of the hub. Seems like it would be torquing the top of the strut also, at the insulator. Not a suspension guy so more thought would be required to venture more. The ugly welds caught my eye. Maybe it's actually the stock position... Edit #2 - Added a picture of stock position. That piece of square stock is not stock, as I thought. Edit #3 - the mustache bar seems to be on backward also, for the R180. Maybe it's all part of the R230 setup...

Saw some odd things on the back end (besides the split open "fuel cell").. The rear mounts for the suspension look like they've been dropped with some square bar pieces. One of the hub castings looks split or broken or ground off. Hard to tell what it is, but I don't think that you should be able to see the spindle bolt. Maxima calipers. Maybe some companion flanges came with the car and that's why they're missing on the hubs. Looks like plain old rusty 240Z axles though. Seems pretty solid, otherwise. Edit - on second glance it looks like the spindle bolt broke out of that casting. Must have been quite a blow or maybe the modified mounts put things in a bind. You should take a good look at what's happened or happening back there.

You're going to need a bigger phone.

Can't remember if you're one of the numerous guys with V8's looking to "upgrade" parts, or of you still have an L6. Or if it's a 240, 260 or 280Z. But there's a fairly simple method to get 280ZX CV shafts in the back of a 240Z. If that's what you have. You should probably list "every single piece" also. There's a lot of pieces back there.

If you had KYB's or Tokicos in the tubes then this isn't relevant. I just remember an assemblage of parts hanging from a rod when I took apart my factory struts. Still have them if anyone wants them.

1981 has no AFM switch.

You might not be understanding when the pump gets power. Take some meter readings. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Edited for wrong year chart. (Still no AFM switch, they stopped that in 1978).

No one is interested in this fantastic new HEI multispark (2 sparks!) product in a super-small form factor?! I sent Pertronix an e-mail asking for specifications and instructions and these two files are all I got. I wonder if they accidentally got two sparks when they finished the rev-limiter algorithm and couldn't get rid of the second one. Can't have two strong sparks from a system that's already at its limit for multi-cylinder high-RPM. Must be two half-strength sparks. Just carrying on with my cynical views...

The resistor is for the 6 volt ignition system. It's the ballast resistor before the coil. If you're not using the stock 240Z coil then you probably don't need the resistor. The answer will only be simple if your stuff matches someone else's exactly. Otherwise, you'll have to post a picture or description of all of your parts and let someone tell you how to connect everything.

There's a lot of parts up there. What are they made of? Are they oily? How far apart were things and were they stock parts? Might be a strut internal part. Did you intentionally spell "ass" in your picture? Clever. Ass feet - eeww..

There's always the old fashioned way - turn the key to a spot and measure continuity though the switch. Why rely on wire colors when you don't have to?

This one is close except for Green/Blue instead of Green/White. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1970_240z.gif

Post some links to the information you've seen. Otherwise you'll get in to one of those "already saw that" loops. Might help to describe your new fuse panel and what you've done to the car also.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120421-l28-350z-6-speed-transmission-adapters/

Just came across this new Pertronix product. Lots of words but only one number - two, for two sparks per combustion event. Anyone know anything about it? I've thought that Pertronix was mostly hype these days, but this would be something if it was real. But I would also expect a real engineering-based form to show some data. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=164 http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7meo/pertronix-flame-thrower-hei-iii-ignition-performance

You should make this your signature. The 83 engine and transmission should swap in directly. You implied though, that you'll be using the 79 manual transmission since you mentioned another ECU. If you use the 79 transmission, everything behind it will remain the same. If you use the 83 transmission, use the 83 propeller shaft. The 83 ECU will probably work with the 79 manual transmission. If you want to see which parts are the same between the two models, check the FSM's.

If you can, re-title your post to say "LSX swap parts" or something similar. I ignored your post when I first saw it because it looked like another ill-informed person asking a simple question. "Parts gathering" - boring!

Weird how some threads can get totally messed up.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters of each year FSM. If you don't feel comfortable figuring out where the power's coming from you might want to rethink it. But it looks like they didn't change the relays until 1978. Your information in Post #1 about the relays doesn't seem to be right. So 1975-76 should be a match for your car. You might even end up with spare parts. Get other parts like the ignition module and distributor if they seem in good shape. Thermostat housing, water pump, etc. All worth a look.