NewZed

How is the 280Z body holding up, in general? No roll bar/cage yet, right? Any signs of body flex, cracked paint or warped metal? The question of 240Z vs. 280Z comes up occasionally and you've got a good test going.

Use these two links and order on-line. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/

Your video shows that you're running very rich. The engine revs with the AFM disconnected because there's extra fuel for the extra air you add when you open the throttle. Going from rich to leaner. When you connect the AFM you're adding fuel on top of the already-too-much-fuel so it floods out. It's all described in detail in the usual factory issued document. As far as the AFM tuning procedure with the pop can. You'll notice that there is no background given at all on why that should work. It looks neat-o but where did it come from? Not Japan. You should set your AFM back to where you started (you marked the spring position, of course) and start testing, again. What coolant temperature sensor resistance did you measure before you started tweaking the AFM? Megasquirt won't be easier, there are many threads like this one out there but with "MS" in place of "factory junk electronics".

It's a craps shoot. Might get snake eyes. Google the company name and read. There will be some obvious hazards.

Motor Sport Auto shows them. Courtesy Nissan might be a good on-line Nissan dealer option.

Not quite, but close. It doesn't send a signal, it just changes resistance with temperature.

Looking through Cramer and Hoffman's Performance Fuel Injection Systems book I found the statement below on page 64. The D-Jetronic would likely be the one that doesn't work with the 123Ignition system. The L- should be fine, I'd guess. "D-Jetronic EFI --..............used a second set of points in the distributor that created a tach pulse to trigger the fuel injection...."

Weird that the race is allowed. People and their property so close to the road. I thought that these kinds of races only happened in Third Worldish places like Mexico. Where's the video of the trip over the curb?

Here's 1973 240Z. You can open Engine Electrical chapters and look at more in the attached nicoclub links. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Thanks. Still not clear, but a test will tell. There's no signal generated, just monitoring of the coil's charge/discharge activity via a wire to the ECU. Here's a copy of the 1976 280Z advance information.

What is the IE? I see the following statement on the attached link and don't really understand why it would be the case. Does the Tune model not like to have other wires on the coil's negative terminal? The tachometer runs off of coil negative also. Maybe it's a misconception, an overly broad statement (D-, K- or L-Jetronic) or based on limited information. Pretty important for any 280Z or 280ZX owners looking at the product. " Note:Tune models are Not suited for Bosch Jetronic injection systems. But work nicely on the Bosch Mechanically injected motors or carburated models. " http://www.123ignitionusa.com/tune-models.html

71 is not like 72 is not like 76 is not like 79 (especially, not an S30) could be partial cause for the confusion. The 78 5 speed will swap straight over to a 76, shifter and all. You'll lose the top gear switch that activates the solenoid for the distributor's vacuum advance,

Well done. Don't forget to check your fusible link for damage.

You have a short somewhere. All you can do is check wires. Check the alternator B post for continuity to ground with a meter. You might have a bad alternator. Also make sure that you don't have other things connected to the B post. Like the black ground wire.

You've made all of the classic errors. Condolences. You should have read a few threads on cam swaps, there are many stories out there about the wedge and the rocker arms. I think that the rocker arms can be reconditioned to get rid of the wear patterns. No idea on cost. Someone might reply with a recommendation, I think that one of the popular cam shops will do it.

Sounds like you have the main charging wire connected to ground somehow. The big white wire. Did you connect it to the ground (E) post by accident? Instead of B, for battery.

Switched positive for negative? Cable colors are often backward on the old Z cars. That's another benefit of using the plug. Unplug it and you'll know if your wiring is wrong or something else.

As Xnke said, everything should swap over just fine if you kept things in order. If you just threw the rocker arms in a pile, you've made an error. Did you wedge the timing chain well, and set cam timing to zero before pulling the cam? P90A heads came with hydraulic pivots, for the most part. NA cars typically have P79 heads.

Clutter? That's the point of the thread, and a forum, in general. Share the knowledge so others don't make the same mistakes.

Still can't get over the pictures of the work and the statements about $100,000 cars, etc. The two do not fit together at all. Why did you edit out the name of the company? I looked at their site and they don't advertise fabrication work, they just sell parts. Are you sure that some sales guy didn't talk you in to work on the side. Still just an odd story.

That's my thought. No need to cut up the original harness and the plug holds all the loose ends together. Just one way to do it.

If I was going to do the swap again I would cut the plug off of the old external reg and connect the wires there. It will look better and be reversible. If you're doing a 76 you might find that you have a battery drain when you're done.

Yes, the 280Z's came with 60 amp alternators. The only reason to swap to an internal regulator would be for fewer parts, or better dependability (assuming that one internally regulated alternator is better than the external system), or just for the fun of doing electrical work.

More clarity - an alternator option for the 73 240Z's, and the standard for the 280Z's, was a 60 amp alternator. Only the early 240Z's had the 40 or 50 amp units.