NewZed

After reading all of these "coilover" conversions discussions (which really should be called adustability and/or lowering modifications since the cars already have coil-over-strut suspension), you realize that separating damping (the shock absorber) from springs is the key to understanding what to do. Where the spring perch is attached determines ride height and adjustability range, and has essentially nothing to do with damping. And the strut tube is cut only to make the shock absorber body fit correctly, clamped down to the bottom of the tube from the gland nut at the top. With those two concepts, you don't really need any numbers, you could do the whole job with a Sharpie. You do need numbers to determine which parts to get, but once you have them, no numbers needed. In other words, you can't determine how much to cut until you have the shock body decided. Just simplifying, for those that like simple.

To add a point of reference, I just entered www.hybridz.org in the address line, got the standard front page, clicked on Forums on the front page, View New Content, clicked on this thread, signed in and posted this reply. Old Compaq desktop, Windows XP fully updated, Chrome browser. Firefox works also. DSL line with plain old Netgear modem. All old basic stuff, nothing fancy. Windows Security Essentials disabled, using aftermarket protection. Maybe there are some clues there. Still get 404 errors when clicking through from Google search though.

Might be worthwhile to isolate the problem. Bypass the surge tank and go back to just the high pressure pump feeding the fuel line directly from the big tank. If the problem goes away it's coming from the surge tank system. If it stays, at least the number of options will be smaller.

This guy Joe is just trying to make some money and he didn't get the deal he wanted. Then he took the MM site name, and is using the designs from MM's suppliers. His remarks on the MM web site about the discussion are pointless and shouldn't really be there. Irrelevant to your purpose anyway. Why don't you design a thinner adapter, offset more to the wheel side so that you can use the stock axles. Indications are that the axles are just just a small fraction of an inch too long when used with the MM design. The MM design looks kind of thick and may take up more axle space than necessary. Almost forgot about this old adapter that cygnusx1 worked up. It's for the 3x2 hole 280ZXT axles. There used to be a complete thread on it but it got disappeared somehow. All that's left is the print, with dimensions. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/files/file/3-cv-adapter-print/ Seems like something similar could be worked up for the 4x1 axles, but you'd have to determine how much less room you have with the 300ZXT axles. Then there's the comfort level of adding an extra interface. In theory, it's just another set of nuts and bolts clamping things together, but still...

Seems like this is close to your main symptom and you're making assumptions about what the cause is. You might help your mission by just describing what happens and see if anyone has a suggestion about the cause. Describe the "vapor lock" under load, for example. EMS description will help also; stock, MS, etc.

I assume that Google keeps some sort of index out there in web land that it uses for its search engine. The links back to hybridz.org seem to be broken. For example - https://www.google.com/#q=280z+site:hybridz.org+cylinder+head+modification All links lead to 404 even though they do seem to exist in the sub-forums shown. Just trying to help tie up the loose ends. The threads can be found by going to the sub-forum on hybridz.org shown on the results page, by hand, then searching within the forum using the Hybridz search function. But Hybridz is probably losing any newbies that try to click through from Google after searching general terms.

Get Volvo or BMW. 1978 242 on rockauto.com is $4.33 to 5.50 each. Spring clip. EV1 style. FricFrac's on hybridz also. Hard to find his kit post though. Got creative and found it - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103849-wiring-harness-repair-kit-eliminate-your-electrical-gremlins/?hl=fricfrac&do=findComment&comment=971265

One of the FAQ threads has a redirect error. It never opens. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/42991-custom-cylinder-head-building-what%E2%80%99s-involved%E2%80%A6/

Could just be the slave or master cylinder. Stage 1 or 2 still won't work if so.

Don't overlook the fact that stiffening certain areas will redistribute loads to others. You could end up with a nice stiff plank that rips out its mounting points or bends the parts it's attached to. One parking curb doink and you're whole front end is mashed up.

Sign-in is required to see your Google pictures.

His plastic containers are empty and he can't figure out why the pedals go to the floor. Probably not really ready for any "upgrades", at all. It's time forrrrrrrrrrrrr...reading and looking at pictures. In the big book that professional engineers spent much effort and time assembling. So people could understand how their stuff works.

You're describing two issues. A stretched/worn belt, and a bolt that won't stay tight. Which is it? Lower quality belts stretch. Get a new belt. Make sure it's correct for the engine. Get a decent brand. Gates seems to make good stuff. If you can't figure out how to keep a bolt tight, life will be difficult. Use some Loctite, perhaps.

Blown seals in the various cylinders and calipers would cause fluid leakage. No fluid, no pressure. It's hydraulics. A clutch kit will have nothing at all to do with blown seals.

Only pistons (or crankshaft journals) are actually at Top Dead Center. Everything else is relative to that. Maybe you mean the camshaft and valves? There's always the notch and groove, which are supposed to be fairly well aligned when the #1 piston is at TDC.

Do you have an engine yet? Your title says 280ZXT, your first post says 280ZX. Apparently the MS VR circuit will handle any of the possibilities, but if you're asking where the inputs come from you might be getting ahead of yourself. Might be best to get the parts and figure out how to make them work or figure out what you want and get the parts.

Did you buy the Pertronix Ignitor new? Cutting out at high RPM is a typical sign of a bad ignition module. Also, white mark right on the arrow doesn't mean much. There should be numbers associated with timing, 10 degrees BTC or advanced, for example. Being picky but it's hard to tell what your situation is. What about the rest of the parts - plug wires, plugs, rotor, cap. Are they new also or the old pieces? Did you follow the Pertronix instructions or wing it based on what looked right? Details.

Did it rev past 3,400 RPM with the points? You've described two different regimes so there's no comparison of old versus new. And why were you idling on the freeway? "on the freeway, my idle would drop to zero, "

Can't remember (or never knew). I just took an old piece in and matched threads and flare. Pretty sure it's just a simple single flare of some older spec. Most stores have a variety of precut, flared and fitted tube lengths.

Are there no auto parts stores in Alabama?

Those washers are actually called "yokes" and they have a certain shape that distributes the clamping force. Some call them thick washers, but thick washers would probably not work correctly. Studs and nuts, or bolts, are used to clamp the yoke to the flanges on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Each yoke clamps two manifolds. The holes are evident between the runners. This won't help much with visualizing but you can get the part numbers. Part #28 is the yoke. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/ManifoldEgr/FromAug76/tabid/1606/Default.aspx

For the record, re the Droid people - Windows XP here (holding out!), with Chrome on an old Compaq desktop. No problems as of now.

404 error at 4:21.

Seems normal except for slow speed.

Testing Reply.