NewZed

You're at zero? The picture's at EM-20 in the 1982 book.

The MSD 6530 is wired for a MAP sensor. So you can program it for "vacuum" (lower pressure than atmospheric) advance if you buy a MAP sensor and wire it in to the MSD box. Just to tie up a loose end. If you read around the web world you'll find that confusion follows all of the MSD programmable boxes. MSD is like the sterotypical group of engineers, excellent technology just no ability to explain how to actually use it. They must be leaving big money in sales on the table. A simple re-write of their instructions and some better ad copy and they could sell a ton of the programmable units. From a business standpoint it's kind of incredible, that they could see the need, develop the product, then fail to get the word out to potential buyers. And never go back to fix it despite years of feedback. Another downside to the MSD is a MAP failure. Pros and cons. https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19572

Found this video on John Coffey's new Betamotorsports Facebook page. Shows about how much oil flows through an internally oiled cam while spinning. It's not squirting, just bubbling up like black gold. For those worried about whether they have oil flow or not. Pop the valve cover and spin.

It can use one though. For Boost Retard. That's where it's easy to get mixed up. In "absolute" terms, "boost" is anything above zero pressure (literal vacuum). We all live under ~14.5 pounds of boost. Keeping the distributor vacuum advance defeats the purpose of the 123 programmable ignition.

Actually, back to #10 and #11, you should never have 12 volts on the red, if it's disconnected from the module. Are you measuring with the wires disconnected as shown in the FSM? If they're connected to the module when you measure you'll get funky results because you'll also be measuring components inside the module.

It is possible to seal the leaks in the back of the car so that no fumes can enter. Just to give you hope. A large leak that often gets missed is the vinyl covered trim board on the bottom inside of the hatch. Seal the edges of that piece all the way around (stick-on weather strip from Home Depot works) and any fumes that enter the hatch framework, through the drain holes or the latch mechanism area, will not be able to enter the car. After that the only other seal is around the perimeter of the hatch, the factory weatherstripping. You can usually eye-ball the seal area and see if it's making contact, along with using the dollar bill trick.

You're right, that would work assuming the instructions on the MSD site are correct. I've never understood why they don't do a better job of explaining absolute pressure versus atmospheric pressure. It's hard to understand if they really understand what they're selling. How does the MSD unit handle starting timing? MAP pressure will be atmospheric until the engine cranks then will jump to low pressure, advancing timing. Unless the MAP sensor is on ported vacuum. (Actually I see that you covered that in the other thread, with high retard at low RPM). Is the software easy to use? It looks like an option, but you'll still have an old distributor, that you have to modify. So, the 123 option gives you a new ready-to-use distributor for $100, basically. On the other hand, MSD gives MSD, with a stronger spark. Seems like it's down to ease of install with 123 versus a few extra benefits with MSD. A good alternative though. Edit - You can download the MSD software here and try it out, the download is near the bottom of the page, Pro-Data+ software - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/6530_-_MSD_Digital_Programmable_6AL-2.aspx Have to say it's not pleasant. But you do get the satisfaction of solving a difficult problem.

They tend to get gummed up. Careful application of carb cleaner will fix them. Resistance across the pins to the internal heater is about 60 ohms it you want to check for electrical breakage.

You should be able to throttle any engine down until it dies using the "throttle". Throttle, strangle, suffocate, keep the air out and the engine can't run. If you can't you have an intake leak somewhere, as noted above, or the throttle body needs adjusting. Even the idle bypass on an L6 throttle body will let the engine rev high if it's cranked open.

You should be measuring resistance at red and green. Page EE-31. The weird thing about transistors is that they can show voltage, but won't have significant current flow. I don't know if 12 volts at red is normal or not. But the resistance through the pickup coil circuit is important. The flow path would be red wire from pickup in distributor to terminal on fender well through ignition module in cabin then back to terminal on fender well and back to distributor's green wire (some reman's use two blue wires from the distributor, green and red on the inside though). That's the trigger for the module. Then The blue wire connected to the coil negative and the module makes and breaks the circuit based on the signal in those two wires. Easy to get lost in there. That's why the diagram is handy. There are other simple tests you can run while you're in there.

Would you start this project from scratch knowing what you know now?

Progress. Don't forget to check the blue wire. It needs to be connected to the coil negative at one end and the ignition module at the other. The wiring diagram in the Engine Electrical chapter would help. Other wires that need to be connected to the module are the red and green wires from the distributor. That's where they go after the terminal on the fender well.

Of course, you've checked for power at the pump and know that it only has power when the engine is running or the key is at Start. Then jumped power to the pump just to be sure you're not wasting your time. If so, time for a new pump. Several options out there, many opinions.

There probably is but it's just not injecting from the injectors. Loosen a hose clamp on the fuel system after cranking for a little while and see if anything squirts out. Have a rag handy and no open flames or lit cigarettes.

The only outer shaft in that area that has a bushing is called the spindle pin. Here's an option, or you can buy a new one. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116959-58th-bolt-option-for-spindle-pin-replacement/

That thread problem was an injection issue. No fuel. You can check your coil operation by attaching a wire to the negative post of the coil, one end only, then turning on the power and tapping the other end of the wire to ground. Set the main wire from the center of the coil close to a ground area, like the valve cover or intake manifold, that's where the spark will happen. Each tap will make and break the circuit to the coil and should create a spark. But, it looks like your mechanic is going to do the testing and he doesn't seem to have a very good method. He's swapping parts without knowing why. Does the tachometer move when you spin the engine? It may be that your guy just left the blue wire off of the ballast resistor. The blue wire controls the ECU, the tach and the ignition module. It's circuit runs to the negative post of the coil. Edit - actually the tachometer may not move if the ignition module is bad. No spark, no pulse. But, a minute with a multimeter under the dash at the ignition module or at Pin 1 at the ECU connector will tell if it's connected correctly. No blue wire, no run. Easy to overlook after an engine swap, especially if the ballast resistor was messed with.

Toned down and rephrased - coil has power...no spark...help, is not enough information. And you're in the wrong sub-forum. Something for you to check - what causes the ignition module to break the coil circuit?

Is this just to save $10, or convenience? If you cut the notch for the lock bolt, and get the distances right between the nut and the bolt head, you essentially just end up with a spindle pin of slightly smaller diameter. You can get a new Nissan pin for $22.23. $12 to get you going in a pinch is one thing, but there's no improvement here. It's not an "upgrade" it's just different. It's not even really a swap, since it's essentially a "downgrade". Just saying, I understand the urge to tinker but there doesn't seem to be any good reason to do this unless you're in a hurry, short $10, or have modified your suspension to where the stock pin doesn't fit anymore.

An addendum to superlen's advice - test at the ECU connector. See through the wires of the ECU. While you're there, do all of the other tests in the Engine Fuel chapter..

Never mind. I drifted in to a rant. I guess it's like snow-boarding and skiing.

Probably fumes from raw gas on exh. Mani. The intake only sucks, no puffing.p Check hoses before fire.

Watch tach, measure fuel pressure. Ignition module or fuel problem.

Only if you're in the herd - "You must log in first".

Check the head-cooling thread and you'll find pictures of some heads that have been sliced open. My impression is that there are not really passages designed for flow but just big open areas between the tops of the cylinders and the valve train support and valve guides and the outer walls of the heads. It's part of the cooling problem, the coolant's easiest flow path back to the thermostat area leaves areas of low flow. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/

Are you sure that the Z31 EMS on an L6 can be "flashed" based on a list of components? Chips or reprograms are typically based on high volume stock setups. That's where the customers are. Call the place(s) you expect to do the work and see if they have a clue about what you're using first.