NewZed

I had to quote your ironic statement. Pretty funny. There's a 20 amp fuse inline, if that helps.

Show a link to the kit or describe it. Resistive wire heaters would typically run off of 12 volts. And, the endless do-loop, look in the FSM. Page BE-4. Shows a switch, some wires, and a fuse. Called "Heat Glass".

This is a really interesting thread and I hope it keeps on. It's pretty early to draw any firm conclusions though. The initial determination that seam-welding is ineffective could really be about the method and quality of welding more than just welding itself. No offense, but maybe, as you kind of inferred, you just used the wrong technology. I hope you'll do some strut bar testing before the roll-cage. Work up from cheap (things that most of us can do and afford, the really interesting stuff) to expensive (things most of just read about). On the test jig- if the rear is only attached at the top of the tower and front transverse link attachment point, then the pivot point will be at the top of the strut tower (edit - "pivot" is not the best word since that's a key word for the test. Flex might be better. Might show up as a sideways deflection where the measurement point is. Learning.). The rear link attachment point won't be in play and the whole back section of the car could be bending at the strut tower. There's no triangulation, right? I hope I actually understand what you're doing. Like any other anonymous forum member, I may not have a clue what I'm talking about.

Thanks for taking the comments in a positive way. Considering RebekahZ's comments, you could probably qualify your statement about S30 seam-welding to the 280Z body only. Maybe the 240Z benefits from it, but Nissan improved things in the 280Z to where messing with them lowers stiffness as you've shown..

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Looks like a lot of work to generate what are essentially just two data points. Then a big leap to draw a very broad conclusion. An R&D firm would go out of business quickly using this methodology. What's the error in your measuring instruments, for example? 0.5 degrees is difficult to measure. You could have a loose bolt here - "The rear is solidly anchored to the concrete, bolted to the mustache bar and diff mount brackets, two studs and four bolts" - giving some deflection. It's an interesting area that could use more data shared (the racers are still keeping their secrets) but reproducibility is important. No way to tell if your work is valid. Edit - didn't mean to sound so negative. I've done some R&D work though and it's easy to get misled on why the numbers change. If you can reproduce the work using the same tools, you'll at least get a better idea of the quality of your measurements. For example, put the car back on your measuring frame and see if you get the same numbers. Take it off and put it on a few times and see what you get.

Shows available online - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap Or here for 6x more - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3052

Not an expert but ignoring Lamp seems reasonable. The VR itself is probably wired to provide the current to the alternator windings from one of the other power wires, and the completion of the circuit from the harness is unecessary since there is no actual "Lamp" at the ammeter. Sorry for guding you down the FSM path when it looks like it's not right. Maybe this is why so many people just swap to an internally regulated system. FYI, it looks like you could get factory part for $113. http://www.courtesyparts.com/regultr-vo-p-283142.html Here's a link to a thread from a guy who really knows the 240Z wiring. He makes these for MSA. Shows only five pins in the adapter. http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=11 Here's another link showing all of the VR models that Nissan went through - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/EngineElectricalFittingParts/tabid/1630/Default.aspx

I have a 76 and my external VR is gone. In retrospect, I recall other threads about five wires where there should be six so your harness might be right. It would still be worthwhile running the diagnostics in the FSM. See if the NAPA VR has the letter labels L, A, N, IG, F, E on the back and compare it to what should be. Maybe you can swap a wire. In the meantime you might re-title your thread to something like "1973 240Z has only 5 wires at the VR plug instead of 6" or something like that. There are billions of "HELP, not charging right" threads out there. Maybe even trillions.

The high "+" on the ammeter typically means that a lot of amps are flowing. Maybe because you're charging a discharged battery. The missing wire is the "L" wire. In theory, I think, the alternator should either not produce a charge or take an engine rev before it does. "L" flows current through the windings to start the charging cycle. Some alternators have enough residual magnetism to get things started. It might work but it's not quite right. In short though, you might not really have the problem that you think you have. The great thing about the early Z's is that Nissan wrote extensive diagnostic procedures and diagrams in to the service manuals.

1973 BE-5 shows factory green wire with an inline fuse and no relay. Kudos to the OP for finding the fuse. You know you have power out of the fuse, follow the wire.

Aren't you just asking for problems? They're mint!

Why guess when you can know? Strap an old milk bottle in there for overflow, drive it for a week and see what's in the bottle. I had a headgasket that leaked from the passenger side rear. Coolant only, all external. I've read of others with the same problem. You'd probably see a rusty, coolant washed trail down the back of the engine if you had the problem. And my 76 280Z has never needed "bleeding" or burping. I think that might be an early 240Z cooling sytem issue. Finally, if your cooling system doesn't work you might have the core bypassed. Apparently this can cause problems by changing the coolant flow path through the engine. Read up on bypass versus block-off of the heater core.

Many people remove the BCDD entirely and their engines still run. Not sure your statement is correct.

I was trying to strengthen a mind and you've allowed it to stay weak. An opportunity wasted. Oh well. There were probably part numbers on the bag too, that could have been searched. http://www.courtesyparts.com/

It might take a shift in thought patterns to get to the answer.

There are five parts. Clue - transmission.

Wouldn't duty cycle give you a ball park figure on size? Kind of irrelevant for these injectors since they're hard to find but still might be useful in general.

Check continuity of the wire from Pin #1 of the ECU harness to the negative post of the coil. That's what triggers the ECU to open the injectors.

Start a new thread in the proper forum instead of tagging on to an old dead thread about a BMW engine swap. In the new thread, describe exactly what you did that lets you know the fuel pump "dosent suck up fuel". Good luck.

Move your thread to this forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/35-nissan-v6-forum/ , read the threads on the other VG30 flavors, and be more specific than vague terms like "retained equipment". What does that even mean?

Fuel pumps will run backward. Check the wires. And the obvious, considering Metor's post - pull the hose from before the fuel filter, not after, and see if any fuel flows. Put some thought in to how things are supposed to work. What now, what now, what now will take you forever. Getting fuel to the fuel rail is probably the simplest of the problems ahead of you.

An internet search on Datsun Parts LLC would have thrown up some flags. Yours is the clearest case of bad product that I've seen described though, besides the sand in the cylinder head story (see below). I'm sure that many people are just too embarrassed to share their experiences. A warranty for normal use is one thing, mis-representation is another. You might take your engine to someone who knows the engines and see if you have a case for a lawsuit, or PayPal or credit card claim. If it's worth your time. You'd be doing the rest of the world a favor. Here's a fairly recent thread on this guy - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105897-l28s-from-datsun-parts-ebay-store/ I hope this doesn't ruin your holidays. You might actually have some good parts there. My impression is that the guy buys used parts individually and reassembles them in to packages. Who knows, he might mean well, just doesn't know what he's doing.

If the focus is on tunable advance curves, wouldn't it be simpler to use an external box? Miniaturizing is difficult, and could be the show-stopper. Once you get the basic hardware and the code worked out, that could come later. You could even strap it to the side like a ZX module instead of under the cap.

Did you build the engine originally with these performance mods, or did you buy it this way? You said it was rebuilt but didn't say who put the packge together. If you bought it then confirmng what you have is a good idea. Confirm that zero on the damper pulley is actually TDC, cylinder pressure is not too high (if the heads been shaved CR could be higher than calculated), advance mechanisms work right (a spring could have popped off of the centrifugal mechanism), cam timing is correct (does Schneider provide a mark for reference or do you have to use a degree wheel?), etc., stuff like that. Considering what you said about the way you received the engine it seems reasonable to assume that somehting else might be screwed up too. Make sure that what you think is detonation is actually detonation, if you can. Maybe detuning the engine with retarded timing is just covering up an exhaust leak or some other noise that sounds like detonation.