NewZed

That thread problem was an injection issue. No fuel. You can check your coil operation by attaching a wire to the negative post of the coil, one end only, then turning on the power and tapping the other end of the wire to ground. Set the main wire from the center of the coil close to a ground area, like the valve cover or intake manifold, that's where the spark will happen. Each tap will make and break the circuit to the coil and should create a spark. But, it looks like your mechanic is going to do the testing and he doesn't seem to have a very good method. He's swapping parts without knowing why. Does the tachometer move when you spin the engine? It may be that your guy just left the blue wire off of the ballast resistor. The blue wire controls the ECU, the tach and the ignition module. It's circuit runs to the negative post of the coil. Edit - actually the tachometer may not move if the ignition module is bad. No spark, no pulse. But, a minute with a multimeter under the dash at the ignition module or at Pin 1 at the ECU connector will tell if it's connected correctly. No blue wire, no run. Easy to overlook after an engine swap, especially if the ballast resistor was messed with.

Toned down and rephrased - coil has power...no spark...help, is not enough information. And you're in the wrong sub-forum. Something for you to check - what causes the ignition module to break the coil circuit?

Is this just to save $10, or convenience? If you cut the notch for the lock bolt, and get the distances right between the nut and the bolt head, you essentially just end up with a spindle pin of slightly smaller diameter. You can get a new Nissan pin for $22.23. $12 to get you going in a pinch is one thing, but there's no improvement here. It's not an "upgrade" it's just different. It's not even really a swap, since it's essentially a "downgrade". Just saying, I understand the urge to tinker but there doesn't seem to be any good reason to do this unless you're in a hurry, short $10, or have modified your suspension to where the stock pin doesn't fit anymore.

An addendum to superlen's advice - test at the ECU connector. See through the wires of the ECU. While you're there, do all of the other tests in the Engine Fuel chapter..

Never mind. I drifted in to a rant. I guess it's like snow-boarding and skiing.

Probably fumes from raw gas on exh. Mani. The intake only sucks, no puffing.p Check hoses before fire.

Watch tach, measure fuel pressure. Ignition module or fuel problem.

Only if you're in the herd - "You must log in first".

Check the head-cooling thread and you'll find pictures of some heads that have been sliced open. My impression is that there are not really passages designed for flow but just big open areas between the tops of the cylinders and the valve train support and valve guides and the outer walls of the heads. It's part of the cooling problem, the coolant's easiest flow path back to the thermostat area leaves areas of low flow. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/

Are you sure that the Z31 EMS on an L6 can be "flashed" based on a list of components? Chips or reprograms are typically based on high volume stock setups. That's where the customers are. Call the place(s) you expect to do the work and see if they have a clue about what you're using first.

There are calculators out there. Here's one - http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx?UserID=22496983&SessionID=uyj162uihRKj2TG6a7lX

Check the Maintenance chapter of the Owner's Manual for the various plastic containers- http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html And WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. Use motor oil, since it's a motor

Actually, that makes sense since weld quality would usually be covered by the diff cover in the drift world. Maybe they decided to branch out and got exposed. Good luck with the lawsuit. Couldn't resist the weld comment. I don't really get drift-world. I did it in the rain when I was in high school but got over it.

Actually, the main difference from 76 to 77 was that 77 and later stopped using the AFM fuel pump switch. I've had 75-78 AFMs on my 76 EFI system and they all work fine. Nissan even left the contacts in my 78 AFM, they just weren't used. So, in your case, you'd end up with vestigial fuel pump contacts. It's the ECU's where things can get odd. OAATS, I see that you flipped the years 76 and 77. He's asking about 76 on a 77, not vice-versa. A 77 on a 76 might not work if the pump contacts were gone.

Probably key that they distribute the load. Don't use the typical skinny forks. They might be used to framed cars.

Interested in how the DP LLC parts fit and work. Looks like they centered the inner mounting points of the link, where the stock configuration has offset bushings. Seems like they gave the option of using the stock TC rod also. They look very adjustable though.

Maybe you should sell it with paper work for nostalgia and collectability and get a better car for function and purpose.

So the guy you're talking to at Cometic doesn't know why it's that way and is taking the easy way out. They'll offer a mystery gasket and a Fel-Pro copy. Oh well.

There's one in the back, the mustache bar, and one in the front, the diff mount. Closer.

The transverse link is AKA the suspension control arm. Not R200-related. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

Thanks. These head gasket questions come up all the time, it will interesting to see what Cometic comes back with. If you stick a wire through those holes in the head you might find that they're connected, so blocking one does just change the flow in that area of the head, but not stop it. But that's where flow is low, the back of the head, from what I've seen on this forum so blocking a passage there seems odd. Maybe they know something special.

How about a picture of the cored but not removed MLS coolant hole? Just for future lurkers. Here's an image of a Fel Pro P90 headgasket, borrowed from RockAuto.com

rockauto.com shows both as available. Can't say for sure on 8 v. 10, but if it fits in the space and the bolt pattern lines up, you'll probably just end up with more assist. 10 is probably for the heavier 2+2 models. http://www.rockauto.com/

L24, L26 and L28 look to have the same part number up to 1978. So it looks like sump location is your issue. I'm assuming that the tube will fit the F54 block like it does the N42. Your question is really two. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/OilPump/tabid/1572/Default.aspx This suggests there might be a difference though. Different part number. Definitely different shape by the illustration. Might have to use the pan too. http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=280ZX&ModelYear=1983&ModelSeries=S130&FileType=268&SelectConditions=%281%3d2S%3b2%3dL28E%3b4%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b%29&ShowConditions=%281%3d2S%3b2%3dL28E%3b4%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=A&ComponentsNo=150&ComponentsIndex=12 They both show up on the courtesyparts.com site, but the Z is $.10 more than the ZX.

They need to fit the insert/shock also. Which shock are you using?