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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    I don't know the correct answer. Using different shims under each tower doesn't match anything I've heard of though. I was referring to Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild" book and Honsowetz's "How to Modify" book. They both describe milling top and bottom, and using shims to restore the camshaft to crankshaft distance. I've never seen a procedure for using different thickness shims, certainly not in the FSM. How would that even be done? The FSM says to replace the head if it's warped. Who is this experienced professional engine builder?
  2. NewZed
    The shims or the top side resurface? The shims restore the height, but after the top surface is milled. The shims are all the same thickness. Shims plus top side resurface, not either/or. No pro though.
  3. NewZed
    Just for the sake of making things interesting, describe the Mikunis, where you got them, what they came from and condition. Post pictures. Do some work to figure out what cam and headers you have. More pictures. And give a link to the TEP parts you're buying. Many people that might have an answer would see this as someone asking how to tie their shoes, but can't tell if the shoes are old dirty sneakers, or a new pair of super-cool shoes. Your question is not even 101 level, you have to make the thread worth looking at and replying to.
  4. NewZed
    Spell out the words of the acronym - CHTS. C = cylinder, H = head, ...
  5. NewZed
    Monroe says that cracks between the valve seats is the end of the head. Page 90, How to Modify... The thing about cracks is that they like to keep growing until there's no material left to stop them.
  6. NewZed
    Where's the smoking tires picture?
  7. NewZed
    I think that axle removal is required for that bracket.
  8. NewZed
    A few RPM can have a big effect. http://reconitelectric.blog.com/files/2012/03/alternator_power_curve.jpg
  9. NewZed
    If you search around you'll find that some of the pros say they're not even necessary. Clamping force is key. The ring gear should never slip at all, so the bushings/shims/space fillers should never feel a thing.
  10. NewZed
    There's a mechanical hook that pulls the throttle mechanism open to idle up when the AC compressor is activated. It's on top of the intake manifold and obvious. It needs adjustment. Probably described in the AC chapter.
  11. NewZed
    It's a press fit anyway so width doesn't really matter. The sealing surfaces are the outer and inner circumferences. Make sure the inner seal is riding on smooth steel, lubricate the inner and outer contact surfaces and press it in til it's flush. Make sure it's firmly set in place when you're done. I've only done a couple, others might have some tricks to make it easier and guarantee a good seal. The skinnier seal will probably be more prone to get cocked when installing so a tool, like a piece of big PVC pipe might help in driving it in square.
  12. NewZed
    What's the purpose of the hoses? They cost almost 2/3 what the radiator itself does.
  13. NewZed
    At least - remove the filler cap and look at a cam lobe. Why turn the key and hope when you can know first? If the cam lobes are rusty, there's probably rust elsewhere. As for cheapness and availability, many people here are remembering from their 5 to 10 to 20 years of experience. But these engines are getting melted down in the wrecking yards at a pretty constant rate. Here in Oregon, and across the country, Schnitzer Steel has bought many wrecking yards (converting them to Pick-n-Pull brand) for steel supply and they do not distinguish between a classic and a piece of junk. They're all just an inventory number, to sit in the yard for a month or two then get crushed. Don't assume that you'll pick up a good running for cheap.
  14. NewZed
    NewZed, on 10 Feb 2014 - 12:41 PM, said: But it's not sent. Just to split the hair even finer...
  15. NewZed
    2014 - 1986 = 28 years. That is much longer than most "oil the cylinders and go" cars have sat. If the gas is gone, the residue is probably tarred up in all of the fuel system components. I would pop the valve cover and see how the cam looks, take the plugs out and make sure no cylinders are full of water, drain the oil and look for water, check the distributor cap, drain the fuel system and flush new gas through the lines, etc. Depending on the weather and where it was stored, water can build up in unexpected places. Check the fuel hoses also, my old EFI hoses split under the hose clamps and started squirting fuel after a few months of driving on a car that had sat for a while. You might have some work ahead of you.
  16. NewZed
    How does it not fit? Inside or outside diameter. You don't need to go to a specialty shop for the seal. Your local auto parts store or RockAuto.com will have it. Cheaper too.
  17. NewZed
    Just curious, but doesn't it look like #1 had a useless top ring? The brown is deeper, compared to the others.
  18. NewZed
    The VG33 is different enough from the VG30E that it won't swap straight in. Mainly because the body style changed at the same time. but people are doing it. Here's a couple threads I've saved. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33053-vg33e-96-2000-pathfinder-or-2000-2004-xterrafrontier/ http://forums.nicoclub.com/true-differences-vg30-vs-vg33-t337554.html
  19. NewZed
    Don't forget to grease the u-joints while it's out. Nice bending work on the RTz-style diff mount. Do you have a giant metal brake available? I did something similar with a crack in the patio and saw kerf in a log.
  20. NewZed
    This is a big flag also. You should go through the various components and make sure they're the right ones for the 1975 system. It's not uncommon for people to install turbo injectors because they think they'll add turbo power. Check that someone hasn't tweaked the AFM. Check cam timing. What were the numbers for fuel pressure? Is the regulator's vacuum hose connected? Etc.
  21. NewZed
    What was the resistance on the coolant temperature circuit, measured at the ECU connector? Compare that number to the chart of resistance v. temperature. Page 79 in the 1980 book, 54 in the early one.
  22. NewZed
    For you, plug away. Not much play. Read the instructions. Looks like you might be stuck with the ballast. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-0700_.pdf p.s.- "crane xr-700" in Google found the page above.
  23. NewZed

    R200 CLSD

    NewZed replied to richie2619's topic in Drivetrain

    I think the misunderstanding here is that the OP doesn't know that the R200 CLSD came from a 300ZX, not a 260-280Z. It's a swap, not an original 260-280Z part.
  24. NewZed
    Sorry, but you're going to have to do more searching and studying just to get to the the point where you can ask a good question. Good luck.
  25. NewZed
    Have you even had your distributor cap off yet? Your mission makes no sense. What's wrong with what you got? What are you trying to do?
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