NewZed

1979 is more like a Z then. The 81-83's have a bunch. Popping fuses to find the bad circuit might tell you something. Good luck.

Check the wires to the various switches at the transmission. Maybe one is shorting or you connected the wires to the wrong switch, lowering voltage enough to kill your gauges and the turn signals. The turn signal flasher requires enough current to heat up and flip the circuit, low voltage might not get it there. The ZX's seem to have a lot of transmission switches.

See if it's repeatable. If you let it cool down, then restart and drive and the same thing happens, it's probably something overheating. If you let it cool down and the problem is still the same as when you shut it off, it's probably something that came loose in your ten mile drive. If you start randomly replacing parts new problems could pop up and you won't know if you created them or they're part of the original problem. Also, read up on how the gauges work. I think that they depend on 12 volts to work right, if you're getting weird readings it's probably because base voltage is changing, either high (bad alternator regulator) or low (short circuit somewhere).

The Nissan dealers still carry the nylon bushings for the Z shifters for a few dollars (no need to go brass if you're not in a hurry). Wouldn't be surprising if they still carry ZX shifter parts also.

Apparently the ratios are different depending on 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive. So it would help to know that, to start. If the transmissions are out and he'll let you examine them, you could do some measuring/counting. Always good to spin things anyway to see what shape they're in.

Describe the repairs you did - battery, transmission, etc. - and maybe someone will notice a possibility.

Yoga pants and stance? Really? I'm afraid to click.

Take a battery and see if the injectors click. Take a meter and see if one side of the injector circuit, at the plug, is shorted to ground. Might tell you something.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter, or even a test light? If not, you're in a bind. No way to figure out what you're dealing with. Even with a good diagram and set of instructions you need to test the wiring to make sure things are as they should be. You can't just connect wires and hope, that rarely works. It's probably what burned your wires in the first place.

Since you're beyond just the fusible links and in to the fuse box you should consider adding relays, at least for the headlights and running lights at the combination switch, and maybe for the starter solenoid (260Z's apparently have problems there). It would take some study though. And didier's used Peugot fuse box, designed for long-term automotive use, is probably better than a brand-new Walmart unit. Sealed from weather and designed for heat. That Walmart unit could just end you up back where you started.

That must be one big baby. Is that a 77? Looks in great shape.

You're looking for wire colors, aren't you? You're on the path to sadness and bad smells...

Why assume when you can know? http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ Even better - meter measure.

Pretty sure that the bearings can be replaced from below, engine in car, with some ingenuity. Here's an old link for example - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81528-replacing-piston-rings-with-the-engine-in-the-vehicle-l-series-faq/ Somewhere out there he describes the process in detail. He did not remove the engine. I think that the hardest part is getting the oil pan off. You could also try putting the car in high car (if it's a manual) and giving the car a shove to see how tight things are. Maybe it just needs a few spins to get lubed up.

I would open up AT-40 and go through the troubleshooting chart. After making sure that the shift lever was attached to the transmission control rod. There's good stuff on page AT-10 also.

Just make sure the primary circuit resistance (+ to - terminals) of the new coil matches the resistance of the original ZX coil and you should be fine.

Note to BLOZ UP in the thread titled BLOZ UP about the BLOZ UP.com link in the sig. The link doesn't work.

It's more likely that something went wrong in the injector control circuitry. holding an injector or two or all open. The injector's default condition is closed (spring), so unless you got some crap through the fuel filter and the injector filter, there's no reason for them to stick open.

Here's an Amazon part that looks interesting. Looks like a BMW dealer should be able to get the part number. 16 12 1 176 440 http://www.amazon.com/67-93-Fuel-Hose-Meter-length/dp/B00EWX42KU Or you can just search the internet for it. Looks like three feet, by the Amazon description. http://www.bmwbuddy.com/z/part/16121176440-bmw-fuel-hose You could also hit the wrecking yard and get used if time and money are short. BMW models are listed in the Amazon ad. This part fits:Exx: (fits years) : Model bav: 1967-1969: 2500 bav: 1970-1972: 2800 CS bav: 1969-1971: 2800 bav: 1972-1975: 3.0 CS bav: 1971-1974: 3.0 S bav: 1975-1976: 3.0 Si bav: 1972-1974: 3.0 bav: 1971-1974: 3.0s bav: 1975-1976: 3.0si e10: 1967-1971: 1600 e10: 1968-1976: 2002 e10: 1972-1974: 2002tii e12: 1978-1981: 528i e12: 1974-1978: 530i e21: 1977-1983: 320i e23: 1978-1984: 733i e23: 1985-1987: 735i e24: 1977-1977: 630csi e24: 1978-1984: 633csi e24: 1985-1989: 635csi e24: 1987-1989: M6 e28: 1982-1988: 528e e28: 1983-1984: 533i e28: 1985-1988: 535i e28: 1988-1988: m5 e30: 1991-1991: 318i M42 e30: 1984-1985: 318i e30: 1992-1992: 318ic e30: 1986-1991: 325 e30: 1984-1987: 325e e30: 1985-1987: 325es e30: 1987-1991: 325i e30: 1987-1993: 325ic e30: 1988-1991: 325ix e30: 1987-1991: 325is e30: 1987-1991: M3

The regulator in your alternator might bad. Alternators fail in different ways. Or the S(ense) wire might have become disconnected. Check at the alternator T plug to make sure it sees battery voltage. I've had the L wire loose contact at the T plug before, a wiggle and some contact cleaner and it was back to normal.

There's pictures out there of the original setup. Someone disconnected the original link and replaced it with an inline link. Maybe for a reason. When you reconnect are you going to use your nose to determine if everything's OK? I prefer a meter myself.

The questions seem almost too simple. Have you looked at the wiring diagrams? The Firebird PCM will control the module and coil packs. Here's a source for 78 280Z wiring diagrams. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Centerforce has a web site - https://www.centerforce.com/ So does Exedy - http://www.exedyusa.com/ Considering shipping costs of heavy parts, buying locally from an auto parts store might be most economical, if you go OEM-style. And since you're not sure what you need, you might find that you need to return it. You might find a 240 mm set in there instead of 225, for example. If you still want to go internet, even Amazon sells clutch kits. Sachs is another common OEM-spec. manufacturer. http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1973/Nissan/240Z/ref=au_pf_dp_lf_ladp_1_4?ie=UTF8&carId=001&partsNode=15711461 Here's another option - http://www.datsunstore.com/clutch-7074-coupe-p-1617.html

Oil-saturated air wouldn't really be a problem inside the crankcase, that would just be airborne lubrication. Combustion byproducts that get by the rings, aka blow-by, are the target of the PVC tube.

Live and learn. These are red flags. You'll have to choose between "friendship", money, and time. You'd probably be doing the guy and his parents a huge favor by just taking the car back as-is and removing the pressure.