NewZed

It's more likely that something went wrong in the injector control circuitry. holding an injector or two or all open. The injector's default condition is closed (spring), so unless you got some crap through the fuel filter and the injector filter, there's no reason for them to stick open.

Here's an Amazon part that looks interesting. Looks like a BMW dealer should be able to get the part number. 16 12 1 176 440 http://www.amazon.com/67-93-Fuel-Hose-Meter-length/dp/B00EWX42KU Or you can just search the internet for it. Looks like three feet, by the Amazon description. http://www.bmwbuddy.com/z/part/16121176440-bmw-fuel-hose You could also hit the wrecking yard and get used if time and money are short. BMW models are listed in the Amazon ad. This part fits:Exx: (fits years) : Model bav: 1967-1969: 2500 bav: 1970-1972: 2800 CS bav: 1969-1971: 2800 bav: 1972-1975: 3.0 CS bav: 1971-1974: 3.0 S bav: 1975-1976: 3.0 Si bav: 1972-1974: 3.0 bav: 1971-1974: 3.0s bav: 1975-1976: 3.0si e10: 1967-1971: 1600 e10: 1968-1976: 2002 e10: 1972-1974: 2002tii e12: 1978-1981: 528i e12: 1974-1978: 530i e21: 1977-1983: 320i e23: 1978-1984: 733i e23: 1985-1987: 735i e24: 1977-1977: 630csi e24: 1978-1984: 633csi e24: 1985-1989: 635csi e24: 1987-1989: M6 e28: 1982-1988: 528e e28: 1983-1984: 533i e28: 1985-1988: 535i e28: 1988-1988: m5 e30: 1991-1991: 318i M42 e30: 1984-1985: 318i e30: 1992-1992: 318ic e30: 1986-1991: 325 e30: 1984-1987: 325e e30: 1985-1987: 325es e30: 1987-1991: 325i e30: 1987-1993: 325ic e30: 1988-1991: 325ix e30: 1987-1991: 325is e30: 1987-1991: M3

The regulator in your alternator might bad. Alternators fail in different ways. Or the S(ense) wire might have become disconnected. Check at the alternator T plug to make sure it sees battery voltage. I've had the L wire loose contact at the T plug before, a wiggle and some contact cleaner and it was back to normal.

There's pictures out there of the original setup. Someone disconnected the original link and replaced it with an inline link. Maybe for a reason. When you reconnect are you going to use your nose to determine if everything's OK? I prefer a meter myself.

The questions seem almost too simple. Have you looked at the wiring diagrams? The Firebird PCM will control the module and coil packs. Here's a source for 78 280Z wiring diagrams. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Centerforce has a web site - https://www.centerforce.com/ So does Exedy - http://www.exedyusa.com/ Considering shipping costs of heavy parts, buying locally from an auto parts store might be most economical, if you go OEM-style. And since you're not sure what you need, you might find that you need to return it. You might find a 240 mm set in there instead of 225, for example. If you still want to go internet, even Amazon sells clutch kits. Sachs is another common OEM-spec. manufacturer. http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1973/Nissan/240Z/ref=au_pf_dp_lf_ladp_1_4?ie=UTF8&carId=001&partsNode=15711461 Here's another option - http://www.datsunstore.com/clutch-7074-coupe-p-1617.html

Oil-saturated air wouldn't really be a problem inside the crankcase, that would just be airborne lubrication. Combustion byproducts that get by the rings, aka blow-by, are the target of the PVC tube.

Live and learn. These are red flags. You'll have to choose between "friendship", money, and time. You'd probably be doing the guy and his parents a huge favor by just taking the car back as-is and removing the pressure.

Rockauto.com shows $35.79 for that injector. Other options too.

Beware the difference in combustion chamber volumes. Those two heads are not the same. You could also have an exhaust port and manifold issue with the N42. Neither or your replacement choices would be considered a direct swap option for an N47.

Not bad. Keep an eye on it for melting or deformation. The material used was most likely not intended for high heat.

It will work, they're interchangeable. Get a Zerk fitting and re-grease the u-joints before installing.

If it's not standing off of the radiator body it's just blocking flow through over half of the radiator. Better to leave it open for high air flow at speed and guaranteed air flow, through the fan, when stopped.

Get on to Rockauto.com. Drivetrain>Universal Joint. Looks like Dana Holding Corporation owns Spicer. www.rockauto.com

I'm just trying to have some fun while making a point. You obviously had a gauge connected but didn't measure the most important number. Almost every thread you'll see on measuring fuel pressure mentions 36.3 psi. Hard to understand why it wasn't done. I think the criticism was deserved and well-delivered. Good luck and carry on...

You haven't even mentioned the most basic pressure measurement, pressure without the FPR vacuum hose attached. The base pressure. Rig something up to see the pressure when the problem happens. You could have done both of these in the time it took to write your post. There's a story they tell in philosophy courses about the old philosophers sitting around looking at a horse trying to deduce how may teeth it has in its head, based on how and what it eats. When all they need to do is open up its mouth and count. Seems like you have more of a philosophical than a practical leaning.

A piece of string and a tread groove? Works well if you're shooting for zero.

Did the distributor work before (see the FSM for setting gap and testing the pickup coil, if not)? How do you know the HEI module isn't working (check for spark)? Have you tested the coil + and - terminals for voltage with the key at On and Start? Have you confirmed ground from the mounting grommets on the module? Get a meter and do the basic tests.

Disconnect the battery and measure voltage again. You're not comprehending what the numbers are telling you. Forgot to say that you should not have an external regulator.

14.8 and 13.5 show that your alternator and its internal regulator are working correctly, although that's a big drop between the alternator and the battery. Check for current flow with the engine off. You have something connected to the harness draining power. If you just installed something electrical disconnect it and see if the problem goes away.

Your battery needs replacing or a good charge. Disconnecting the battery with the engine running can damage an alternator, don't do that anymore. Are you really ready to swap a motor?

Found this article on cnet.com. Kind of amusing. Might be appropriate for an Automotive 101 sub-forum. http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-34980_7-57617077/oily-bits-the-cylinder-head-and-valve-train/

These are not good criteria for choosing an engine.

Part of the Factory Service Manual. Has dimensions for "tramming", which is apparently what straightening a bent chassis is called. Good general descriptions of what's important on the body also. You can't go wrong by at least reading the first few pages. I haven't done this kind of work but if I was I would probably tie the strut towers, front and back, together with a tower brace on each, then set the body down on a level surface with pillars supporting the body at the tower tops. Or at the inner control arm mounts. No suspension. That's just a first inclination though, there may be better ways.

You can also check the Body chapter after you're done to see how badly warped things are. Or before.