NewZed

There's a mechanical hook that pulls the throttle mechanism open to idle up when the AC compressor is activated. It's on top of the intake manifold and obvious. It needs adjustment. Probably described in the AC chapter.

It's a press fit anyway so width doesn't really matter. The sealing surfaces are the outer and inner circumferences. Make sure the inner seal is riding on smooth steel, lubricate the inner and outer contact surfaces and press it in til it's flush. Make sure it's firmly set in place when you're done. I've only done a couple, others might have some tricks to make it easier and guarantee a good seal. The skinnier seal will probably be more prone to get cocked when installing so a tool, like a piece of big PVC pipe might help in driving it in square.

What's the purpose of the hoses? They cost almost 2/3 what the radiator itself does.

At least - remove the filler cap and look at a cam lobe. Why turn the key and hope when you can know first? If the cam lobes are rusty, there's probably rust elsewhere. As for cheapness and availability, many people here are remembering from their 5 to 10 to 20 years of experience. But these engines are getting melted down in the wrecking yards at a pretty constant rate. Here in Oregon, and across the country, Schnitzer Steel has bought many wrecking yards (converting them to Pick-n-Pull brand) for steel supply and they do not distinguish between a classic and a piece of junk. They're all just an inventory number, to sit in the yard for a month or two then get crushed. Don't assume that you'll pick up a good running for cheap.

NewZed, on 10 Feb 2014 - 12:41 PM, said: But it's not sent. Just to split the hair even finer...

2014 - 1986 = 28 years. That is much longer than most "oil the cylinders and go" cars have sat. If the gas is gone, the residue is probably tarred up in all of the fuel system components. I would pop the valve cover and see how the cam looks, take the plugs out and make sure no cylinders are full of water, drain the oil and look for water, check the distributor cap, drain the fuel system and flush new gas through the lines, etc. Depending on the weather and where it was stored, water can build up in unexpected places. Check the fuel hoses also, my old EFI hoses split under the hose clamps and started squirting fuel after a few months of driving on a car that had sat for a while. You might have some work ahead of you.

How does it not fit? Inside or outside diameter. You don't need to go to a specialty shop for the seal. Your local auto parts store or RockAuto.com will have it. Cheaper too.

Just curious, but doesn't it look like #1 had a useless top ring? The brown is deeper, compared to the others.

The VG33 is different enough from the VG30E that it won't swap straight in. Mainly because the body style changed at the same time. but people are doing it. Here's a couple threads I've saved. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33053-vg33e-96-2000-pathfinder-or-2000-2004-xterrafrontier/ http://forums.nicoclub.com/true-differences-vg30-vs-vg33-t337554.html

Don't forget to grease the u-joints while it's out. Nice bending work on the RTz-style diff mount. Do you have a giant metal brake available? I did something similar with a crack in the patio and saw kerf in a log.

This is a big flag also. You should go through the various components and make sure they're the right ones for the 1975 system. It's not uncommon for people to install turbo injectors because they think they'll add turbo power. Check that someone hasn't tweaked the AFM. Check cam timing. What were the numbers for fuel pressure? Is the regulator's vacuum hose connected? Etc.

What was the resistance on the coolant temperature circuit, measured at the ECU connector? Compare that number to the chart of resistance v. temperature. Page 79 in the 1980 book, 54 in the early one.

For you, plug away. Not much play. Read the instructions. Looks like you might be stuck with the ballast. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-0700_.pdf p.s.- "crane xr-700" in Google found the page above.

I think the misunderstanding here is that the OP doesn't know that the R200 CLSD came from a 300ZX, not a 260-280Z. It's a swap, not an original 260-280Z part.

Sorry, but you're going to have to do more searching and studying just to get to the the point where you can ask a good question. Good luck.

Have you even had your distributor cap off yet? Your mission makes no sense. What's wrong with what you got? What are you trying to do?

Why change? Might be getting ahead of yourself. Reluctor > reflector wheel. Funny.

Sometimes just breaking one bolt loose can lead to re-motivation. Start with something small and see where it leads. Drag some parts off the shelves to see what you have. Nothing else to do in the rainy weather anyway.

Wait for spring. Even if you still want to sell, you'll get more money for it when the sun is shining.

I think that in the stock configuration the nut tightens or presses the washer against the shoulder on the spindle pin. If it tightened on the bushings' inner sleeve you would have a line of continuous metal from the strut/hub to the locking bolt to the spindle pin to the inner sleeve back to the strut/hub. Solid metal, no rotational freedom. So if you use a bolt you have to replicate the original design, or let the bolt and nut float with a specific distance between them or let the transverse link (control arm) ears take the load and let it float, converting from a pin locked to the strut/hub to a pin locked to the transverse link. Either way, with a bolt the bolt and its hole are now moving bearing surfaces and need lubrication. Maybe a Zerk fitting in the locking bolt hole. And maybe the typical yellow zinc surface on the bolts isn't the best for a wear application. Or it's all just over-thinking, stick it in there and crank it down instead. Food for thought.

The 79 ZX's had a whole variety of driveline options to go with the multitude of models. R180's, R200's and several ratios. They went a little crazy.

You guys are making things complicated. If Zman has the wires connected correctly, the ZX alternator should work fine. If they're not connected correctly, he'll just be connecting the 240SX alternator incorrectly also. They both work on the same principles, the wires are the same only the appearance has changed. If you want to see the plug-style for an alternator go to the auto parts sites online and pull some up. They have some good pictures. Some show the pin-out for the plug also. Switching alternators won't have any effect though unless the ZX alternator in there now is bad. And here's a helpful article from RockAuto.com - http://www.onlinetechhelp.com/installguides/Alt%20Inst%20Inst%20(1).pdf Almost every alternator listing has a little article attached.

Isn't one problem with the bolt solution that you'll be clamping across the transverse link ears and the hub mount. Compressing across the bushings, or tweaking the ears of the link. Unless you get the perfect thread length and bolt length combination. Or depend on thread locker. The bolt solution also lets the bolt spin in the hub/strut mount bore. With the stock pin and locking bolt there's no spinning or wear, only the rubber in the bushing moves, or the pin inside the bushing (I think). Just seems like there might be more to think about than just a simple part swap. 5/8" (.625") is also a hair small I think. The stock pin is probably 16 mm, or .63". That's why it's easy to use the 5/8" bolt. I did send a car to the wrecking yard though with a 5/8" bolt in there, after swapping parts. Not positive but I think that if you stuck a spindle pin alone in a strut, with a lock bolt, and tightened the washers and nuts on each end you'd end up with a solid assembly with two areas of a bushing's width on each side. The bolt solution would be different. Edited for wrongness...

The turbo ZX's, and maybe some 2+2's, and the odd coupe came with the CV-style axles. The NA coupes generally still came with u-joint half-shafts. I have a couple of ZX R200's and a collection of ZX u-joint shafts in the garage. The bolt-in style flange is typical of the R180's. I have none of those.

Maybe it's an R180. Post a picture of it, from the back showing the rear cover, and the threaded hole.