NewZed

There's a possibility that the AFM won't come with a fuel pump relay cutoff switch since 78 didn't use it, although my 78 AFM still had the switch. If you get it and it doesn't have it, you'll have to short the contacts in the connector, at the relay, or rig up a fuel pump switch. Motor Sport Auto sells AFMs, although their core charge is huge, $400. The one I got ran rich though, but it did work fine otherwise. Cheaper too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040 Are you sure you need a new AFM? Its a part that's often replaced with no effect on the real problem. Knowing what I know now, if I needed one, I'd take an ohm-meter to the salvage yard and test and inspect, before buying new. If the yards had them.

You know, by the crinkling, that sticker looks like it's been removed and replaced. Maybe someone ran a scam using that engine. Look through a plug hole and see if it has flat tops or dished pistons. That will give you a clue on if it's a turbo or NA engine. Assuming, of course, it's not just a mish-mash of parts.

I derived the conclusion from the 1978 vintage on an L28, wasn't projecting from your post. That's why I threw a "probably" in. How about "So it shouldn't have a P79 or P90 head, correct?" Just providing clues for the OP so he can calculate the probability that the engine hasn't been remanned again since 1978. In a general kind of way, eh?

That's some good information. So it should probably have an N42 or N47 head, correct? At least he can get an idea of if it might be still whole from when it was remanned.

Did it work before the HEI swap (probably not, I assume)? How did you do the HEI swap, if you're working with an 81 turbo ECU in a 76 car? Did you use skittle's instructions from zcar.com? Have you used a volt/ohm meter on anything yet? That's what you want to start doing. Then you'll know. A couple of simple measurements will tell you a lot. You can get a cheap meter for $6 at Harbor Freight, if you don't have one.

Are you just trying to make use of a spare 7 pin Bosch module? Not clear why you would keep it. The ignition module mounted on the distributor works like a 4 pin HEI module. You might already have a VR triggered module that should work on the NA distributor, if it's not broken. You could also remove the ZX module and just use the pickup coil wires to an HEI module. I'm no Megasquirt expert. Here's the HEI page, under Ignition on the left hand menu - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/

If the coil is getting power at the terminals, you can test for spark with a ground wire on the negative post. If it sparks, then figure out why the ignitor is not igniting, either it's not getting a signal from the ECU or it's broken. The 81 FSM has test procedures for the 81 turbo components also if you're not really sure how the spark is created.

Another puzzle. I'm just working from the sources available. Definitely something for the OP to consider.

Quoting myself for reference... Realized that the big old PCV tube plumbed in to the side of the crankcase might be a reasonable oil return port. It's big and easy to work with, and the pipe can be removed, drilled, plumbed and replaced with no metal chips. I don't know how easy it would be to get in and out with the engine in the car, but it seems like you might be able to do it from under the car without too much trouble.

Rock Auto and OReilly sell the same part for a 1976 280Z and a 1982 280ZX. I'm guessing the thermal transmitter, aka temperature sender, is the same for both. Page BE-42 in the 76 FSM describes operation. Measure resistance and you'll get an idea if its working. Zero and infinity are bad.

The thermostat housings are interchangeable. Looks like probably the 78 housing in your picture. I think that the gauge uses resistance to ground, so measure resistance from the pin on the sensor to ground first to see if the sensor is good. If it is, work backward looking for a short. If it's shorted, you probably have a bad sensor. The description might be in Body Electrical under gauges. Or Engine Electrical. Should be in the 78 FSM.

Get it nice and warm and see if it's still smoking. From your other post - it could be two years of dead bugs or spider webs burning off.

Check fuel pressure. Check for vacuum leaks. Could be a lean mixture. Don't replace any more parts until you take some measurements and know that the intake system is well sealed.

Most 1978s have EGR, I believe. If yours had it, did you reconnect it with headers? If not, what did you do with it? You might have created a vacuum leak.

Have you communicated with Pallnet? A simple courtesy. He might have reports from others if there was a mistake.

The early 280Zs, up to 78, used a contact in the AFM to complete a circuit to the fuel pump relay, which is housed in the same case as the EFI relay, by the hood latch release lever. In 78 they introduced a system that used the alternator L circuit and an oil pressure switch to control a fuel pump relay. The FSM gives the details.

There's something odd about planning to swap a 350, then later an RB, when you can't get the starter to turn the engine over. I would guess that you'll run in to much tougher problems with the swaps. But these things do make the forum interesting...

Have you tested the starter off the engine? If the engine turns by hand, a good starter installed properly should turn it also. Did you replace with new, or replace with old? Maybe you got another bad one, or it bound up during installation. There's not much to a starter - an electric motor with a solenoid actuated gear. Two electrical components that work together. L28 or 350, they work the same way.

What does the voltmeter do when you try to start it? Does it go to zero or just drop a little bit? You might just have dirty battery connections, or a bad battery. Could be at the posts or between the wire and the terminals, especially if they're the style that clamp on the bare wire ends. You might have the same problem with the 350 after it's dropped in.

That tube is the PCV tube. It should just twist and pull out of the one block and press in to the one without. Looks like you might be getting ahead of yourself. You've bought another engine and pulled the old one and you don't know what you had before or what you have now. You could have done a compression test with the old engine in the car. Probably still could with the engine on blocks and the transmission and starter re-installed. You'd want to put the little notched retainer thing back on first though. Were you revving the crap out of it when it started running bad? That might explain why the thing, whatever it is, came off along with the rocker arm. The How to Rebuild book by Monroe is worth buying. $14 at Amazon. It covers the PCV tube and everything else. How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984 [Paperback] Tom Monroe (Author)

These engines are known for having the oil pump gear off a tooth, which moves the distributor drive shaft off its mark also, putting you out of adjustment range at the distributor. You can at least eyeball a tooth on the reluctor (the six point iron wheel on the distributor) with the timing mark at 10 degrees, on the compression stroke. A tooth should be about centered on the pickup coil. Easy to do, and timing's important. Looks like you've done everything else.

You didn't mention timing. The backfires show that your ignition system functions. Check firing order, make sure the order is in the right rotation, CCW, and set your timing. 10 degrees is a good ballpark number. I once had an engine that sat for only one year and wouldn't start until we squirted about a teaspoon full of oil in to each cylinder. They were dry, so there was no compression. Another possibility. And make sure that every vacuum hose is connected, the oil filler cap is on, and the dip stick is in its tube. Plus no cracks in the AFM intake hoses. The crankcase and intake system have to be completely sealed so that all air goes through the AFM. If there's a leak to the crankcase, the PCV system will let air in and cause the mixture to lean out. A sign of lean is intake backfires.

You should get this book. It's probably covered along with a lot of other things you should know - How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984 [Paperback] Tom Monroe (Author) http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340052817&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+nissan

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=d2f_1339964794

Somehow I found that link. It's buried on the Atlanticz.com page, the only place I've seen it. Might not be your problem but still very informative. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/moreinfo.htm