NewZed

That would be a great deal if it's real. Somewhere from the 240z to the 280Z they started staking in the u-joints, making them irreplaceable without some machining. And $15 is about the price of one cheap u-joint. It would be cheaper, easier, and most likely better, especially if they are Nissan factory u-joints.

Does the wire to L have 12.6 volts (battery voltage) with the key at Run? That wire powers the windings that create the internal magnets that are required for charging. The wire to S needs 12.6 volts also, to sense the voltage for the regulator to control the voltage. And, of course, the thick white wire should have 12.6 also, since it is the charging wire. And the case needs to be grounded, either directly or through the E terminal. You can measure all three with a voltmeter the key at Run, and the grounding with an ohm-meter or test light. If you don't have those, something's wrong with the wiring. If you do have those, you might have an alternator problem.

There might be an inline fuse in the wire to the pump that has blown. If the wires are getting hot, then the fuses are getting hot and that's how they function, they melt to save the wires. Overall, it sounds like someone did a poor job of wiring in your fan and fuel pump. 71 didn't come with an electric pump, I believe, so yours must be a custom installation. You should probably start from scratch, using the right wire gauge, relays and fuses, before something melts and/or catches on fire. You just got the car? Some details on what you're working with would be interesting.

One more perspective here, going back to the question in your first post - the ignitor is "triggered" by the ECU. So there is most likely (I've not seen an L28ET harness so can't say for sure) a wire from the ECU harness directly out to the ignitor. The other wires from the ignitor connect to the coil. The GM HEI module, if used, will also be controlled by the ECU and attached to the coil, in a similar fashion as the ignitor. A wiring diagram will probably make it clear which wires from the ECU control the ignitor. "skittle" over on zcar.com has a writeup on using the HEI module with the L28ET control system, it might also give you some clues. Seems to work, although I do notice his diagram says "ground wire from ECU" for the power wire. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/hei_ignition_control_module_swap_info_%20turbos_only%20_876981.0.html

Still can't really understand what you're writing. Your last post implies that fuel pump turns on as soon as the AFM is installed and does not turn off until the key is at Run. That would mean the pump runs constantly with the key Off, draining your battery to death, and the car won't run because the pump turns off when you trun the key to Run. If that's the case, the problem is not your AFM, it's probably a shorted relay. "Prime" is the word ZX people use to describe the 3-5 seconds that the pump gets power when the key is turned to Run. The word "prime" confuses things. The 75-77 AFMs use a switch inside that makes contact when the AFM vane opens, sending power to the fuel pump relay. Some of the 78 AFMs still have the switch but it's not used at the connector. It's easy to adjust with a pair of pliers. Pop the black cover off of the side of the AFM, it's just glued on. Move the counterweight and you'll see how the switch is supposed to open and close. Tweak the metal rod until the switch opens, (fuel pump stops) just as the counterweight and vane are about to hit the stops. You can do the adjustment on the car or use an ohm-meter and do it on the bench. If you do it on the car, the pump should be off with the key at Run, then on when you barely move the counterweight.

What is the FSM spec. for distance fuel should shoot from the fuel line? Black plugs = "lean I suppose"? Doesn't make sense. This looks like a well-crafted troll message. If not, then the first thing you should do is measure fuel pressure with a gauge. It could be the source of all of your problems. Good luck.

From the threads I've seen, especially Heroez's recent poll, only the ZXes had a "priming" feature, and it didn't appear to be tied to the AFM. It seemed to be controlled by a relay or the ECU, depending on which electronic control system you had. Heroez never did tie up the loose ends on his priming problem, and I've only worked with 280Zs so can't be positive, but that's the way things look. Are you saying that you're searching for an AFM that powers the fuel pump for five seconds (which your 76 shouldn't do anyway), and you're going to return one because it doesn't? 5 seconds of pump operation doesn't seem worth it, and you'll probably never get it with a 76, unless I've misunderstood something.

Can't help you with that. That's a basic for automotive work. A skill well worth learning. I'm positive that there are many youtube videos on how to use one. And videos on how to check a coil, check for spark, etc. No offense. Good luck. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=using+a+multimeter&oq=using+a+multimeter&aq=f&aqi=g7g-m1&aql=&gs_l=youtube.3..0l7j0i5.402.4845.0.5919.18.17.0.1.1.0.208.2189.5j11j1.17.0...0.0.2mgq8y_QcIc http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=checking+spark&oq=checking+spark&aq=f&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_l=youtube.3..0l4.20377.26531.0.26898.20.16.2.2.2.1.208.2173.3j12j1.16.0...0.0.Nz2pV8A2lu0 http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=testing+a+coil&oq=testing+a+coil&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&gs_l=youtube.3..0l2.12178.14763.0.16115.14.14.0.0.0.0.171.1344.8j6.14.0...0.0.BN1_7HX2Fwk

There's a possibility that the AFM won't come with a fuel pump relay cutoff switch since 78 didn't use it, although my 78 AFM still had the switch. If you get it and it doesn't have it, you'll have to short the contacts in the connector, at the relay, or rig up a fuel pump switch. Motor Sport Auto sells AFMs, although their core charge is huge, $400. The one I got ran rich though, but it did work fine otherwise. Cheaper too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040 Are you sure you need a new AFM? Its a part that's often replaced with no effect on the real problem. Knowing what I know now, if I needed one, I'd take an ohm-meter to the salvage yard and test and inspect, before buying new. If the yards had them.

You know, by the crinkling, that sticker looks like it's been removed and replaced. Maybe someone ran a scam using that engine. Look through a plug hole and see if it has flat tops or dished pistons. That will give you a clue on if it's a turbo or NA engine. Assuming, of course, it's not just a mish-mash of parts.

I derived the conclusion from the 1978 vintage on an L28, wasn't projecting from your post. That's why I threw a "probably" in. How about "So it shouldn't have a P79 or P90 head, correct?" Just providing clues for the OP so he can calculate the probability that the engine hasn't been remanned again since 1978. In a general kind of way, eh?

That's some good information. So it should probably have an N42 or N47 head, correct? At least he can get an idea of if it might be still whole from when it was remanned.

Did it work before the HEI swap (probably not, I assume)? How did you do the HEI swap, if you're working with an 81 turbo ECU in a 76 car? Did you use skittle's instructions from zcar.com? Have you used a volt/ohm meter on anything yet? That's what you want to start doing. Then you'll know. A couple of simple measurements will tell you a lot. You can get a cheap meter for $6 at Harbor Freight, if you don't have one.

Are you just trying to make use of a spare 7 pin Bosch module? Not clear why you would keep it. The ignition module mounted on the distributor works like a 4 pin HEI module. You might already have a VR triggered module that should work on the NA distributor, if it's not broken. You could also remove the ZX module and just use the pickup coil wires to an HEI module. I'm no Megasquirt expert. Here's the HEI page, under Ignition on the left hand menu - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/

If the coil is getting power at the terminals, you can test for spark with a ground wire on the negative post. If it sparks, then figure out why the ignitor is not igniting, either it's not getting a signal from the ECU or it's broken. The 81 FSM has test procedures for the 81 turbo components also if you're not really sure how the spark is created.

Another puzzle. I'm just working from the sources available. Definitely something for the OP to consider.

Quoting myself for reference... Realized that the big old PCV tube plumbed in to the side of the crankcase might be a reasonable oil return port. It's big and easy to work with, and the pipe can be removed, drilled, plumbed and replaced with no metal chips. I don't know how easy it would be to get in and out with the engine in the car, but it seems like you might be able to do it from under the car without too much trouble.

Rock Auto and OReilly sell the same part for a 1976 280Z and a 1982 280ZX. I'm guessing the thermal transmitter, aka temperature sender, is the same for both. Page BE-42 in the 76 FSM describes operation. Measure resistance and you'll get an idea if its working. Zero and infinity are bad.

The thermostat housings are interchangeable. Looks like probably the 78 housing in your picture. I think that the gauge uses resistance to ground, so measure resistance from the pin on the sensor to ground first to see if the sensor is good. If it is, work backward looking for a short. If it's shorted, you probably have a bad sensor. The description might be in Body Electrical under gauges. Or Engine Electrical. Should be in the 78 FSM.

Get it nice and warm and see if it's still smoking. From your other post - it could be two years of dead bugs or spider webs burning off.

Check fuel pressure. Check for vacuum leaks. Could be a lean mixture. Don't replace any more parts until you take some measurements and know that the intake system is well sealed.

Most 1978s have EGR, I believe. If yours had it, did you reconnect it with headers? If not, what did you do with it? You might have created a vacuum leak.

Have you communicated with Pallnet? A simple courtesy. He might have reports from others if there was a mistake.

The early 280Zs, up to 78, used a contact in the AFM to complete a circuit to the fuel pump relay, which is housed in the same case as the EFI relay, by the hood latch release lever. In 78 they introduced a system that used the alternator L circuit and an oil pressure switch to control a fuel pump relay. The FSM gives the details.

There's something odd about planning to swap a 350, then later an RB, when you can't get the starter to turn the engine over. I would guess that you'll run in to much tougher problems with the swaps. But these things do make the forum interesting...