NewZed

Do these numbers match the spec. in the FSM for your control system? Might be a clue to your problem.

Use an ohm-meter to test if a wire is grounded before connecting it to the positive terminal of the battery. If it is, do not connect it to positive. Sparks are bad.

Use Google and "280Z 5 speed swap" and you'll get pages of reading from all over the internet.

Have you measured the timing, static and when revving? The basics of what timing an engine needs don't change much with ECUs. Static/initial should be about 10 degree +/- a few, and should advance up in to the high 20s or 30s when revved up with no load. This will tell if the initial timing is right and if the ECU is controlling timing like it should, which should also tell you that the ECU is getting the right CAS signal to control injectors with. Just a simple unprecise check of whether or not the electrical components are hooked up right and working. If it checks out then you can focus on mechanical/physical stuff, like fuel pressure, injectors, valve lash, etc.

Isn't stock 1.25 mm? 1.0 isn't much of a bump, is it? About 0.2 increase for a stock L28.

Note that I said it was a symptom, not a certainty, and gave a good diagnostic, for a good ECU anyway. There is anecdotal evidence for ECUs causing flooding. To be more clear. What is "blue streak"? Do you guys offer a rebuild service for individuals? Sounds interesting.

Actually, flooding the engine is a symptom of a bad ECU. Some people have found that the solder connections to the circuit board were faulty and that tweaking the connector or even banging on the ECU would fix the problem. I had one go bad, flooding the engine, but didn't try the beating approach, I just swapped ECUs. The one that went bad on me had no apparent cause. I was testing it to make sure it was good and it took me a mile down the road before crapping out. It would restart and drive for a short time but then die again with lots of gas smell. It had also been on a car that sat for ten years. These Zs seem to be a "use it or lose it" kind of car. Only a bad alternator should "spike". A new one shouldn't cause problems. Edit - your mechanic must be using a scope. If he compares events at the coil negative, or blue wire from coil negative, with the injectors, he should see a three to one ratio, three sparks to one injection, for a properly functioning system.

What's the end on the other side of the firewall go to?

I took a look at the 94 Toyota truck module online (spendy!) and see that it is quite a bit more complicated than the three pin part used on my 95 Pathfinder. I thought that they might be the same, considering the way the Japanese auto makers tend to use the same vendors. The HEI would probably work on mine, but you're looking at a lot more work. Good luck. Might help you to diagram out what all 9 of those wires do. At least the colors are nice to look at.

The injectors should only "pulse" once every three sparks. How do you know that yours are pulsing too fast?

Measure fuel pressure while it's running. Your fuel pump might be losing power when off of the Start circuit.

I picked up a spare oil pressure sender and decided to try it out to make sure it was good. After swapping, I forgot to put the 1 and 2 plug wires back on and started the engine. I let it run for a few seconds then remembered the plug wires. After stopping the engine and re-installing the plug wires the engine wouldn't start anymore, unless I shot some starter fluid in to the manifold. After starting with fluid (by a single detonation I assume based on the noise), it ran normally. I started it several times using the starting fluid, but it wouldn't even pop without it. I tested everything I could think of and finally swapped modules, and it started right up. Voltage was dropping to ~9 volts at the coil and (bad) module wire while cranking so maybe the module just wouldn't work off of the low voltage anymore or was actually drawing too much current. I didn't measure cranking voltage with the new one because it starts so fast, there's no visible voltage drawdown. I'm not sure how the module got just damaged enough to allow the engine to run, but not to start. For the record, I'm using a Z31 coil with a BWD brand HEI module. Replaced it with the same brand. It had worked great for over a year, probably 20,000 miles. Just a little story for anyone having starting problems with an HEI module, or doing tuning work. Pulling plug wires on a running engine might not be a good idea. And the HEI modules might be a little bit sensitive to electrical disturbances.

Are you sure it's not the old "GM HEI has a 4500 RPM rev limit" myth from way back? I've seen it discussed on other forums. If your 94 has one ignitor, the HEI should be able to drop in and keep up, my guess, if the ECU trigger is similar to the 280ZX turbo ECU trigger. I think that the ECU trigger is just on then off, creating a square wave which the HEI module sees as a zero crossing (has to be something like that or it wouldn't work). I'm just a rookie though, so could be off. My 95 Nissan Pathfinder has one ignitor/transistor so I've pondered the possibility for when/if it ever conks out. Good luck with it and hope you figure something out. I love a good cheap alternative too.

You could probably make a GM HEI module work. Search on zcar.com for skittle's write-up to get an idea of how it might work. Or just figure it out on the basics (which you'd have to do anyway with that MSD part). Two wires to take the ECU trigger signal and two wires to make and break the coil circuit. The HEI module is essentially an ignitor with "dwell" control.

Download the FSM for the year of turbo ECU you're using and read the Engine Fuel and the Electrical sections. If you have injectors ticking, then the ignitor (the transistor mounted next to the coil) would be the next place to look.

The 260Z pump is a low pressure pump for carbs. EFI came with the 280Z in 1975. You need a high pressure pump with the appropriate FPR. And you should be measuring fuel pressure before you even try to start the car, to be sure things are right. Unless you've done some plumbing and added a return line, you could get too high fuel pressure (from your new EFI pump) due to back pressure from a too small return line. I haven't done what you're doing, these are just odds and ends I've picked up from the forum.

Might be someone from here, but looks like an interesting collection of parts waiting for assembly if you have the extra cash - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3127405643.html

Just a guess but I think it could apply - any chance that your diff and transmission shaft centerlines are not parallel? Misaligned. A common cause of speed-related vibration. I've not measured the play in the R200 shafts but after working with several I've developed the opinion that the fit is kind of loose, and contributes to the remaining clunkiness of the Z drivetrains, in general. The splines on the R200s I have don't fit super-tight.

You have bitten off a choke-size piece of work. This might help you out with the combo switch wire colors. Apparently there were several combo switch versions used over the years. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Edit and p.s. - I saw your question about "transistor unit". You should read through the FSM to figure out how your engine and control system works before going too much further. If you're asking if you need a transistor unit, you have a lot of reading to do. Read the Megamanual site also. http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

After the early 240Z (adjustable rod) the slave cylinders are the same for the L engine transmissions. They might even be the same cylinder, but with a different rod for the early ones. Looks like you have two problems, at least.

80-83 has the evenly spaced 1-4, plus 5th gear. No idea if it would keep you on boost or not. The ratios of the transmissions, by year of the car they were used in, are listed in various spots around the internet, on web sites and in forums, and in the FMSs of each year.

The "wide ratio" 5 speed has the same 1-4 ratios as the 4 speed. 1980-1983 has the evenly spaced 1-4.

Have you tried to work around the shield to get the nuts and/or bolts off/out? That was a good suggestion. Posts #7 and #8. Or keep grinding.

It could be the fuel pump cutoff switch if it's a 75-77 car. The switch is bypassed at Start, generating enough fuel pressure to start the engine, then the engine dies when the pump loses power. The switch is adjustable by bending the rod under the AFM cover.

This web site is pretty handy - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionControl/5Speed/tabid/1718/Default.aspx Shows late 4 speed and 5 speed forks as the same. Also 3-4 fork is the same as 1-2. Edit - seems like you'd have a 2nd gear problem too, if it was the fork. Maybe the shift rod or the ball bearing detent in the adapter plate? If I understand things, the check ball and detent notch hold the rod which holds the sleeve.