NewZed

Engine - 500 Megasquirt - 500 Harness - 100 Head rebuild - 200 $1300 just for an incomplete set of parts. My estimates are probably (almost certainly) low. You might be missing an opportunity if you really want a turbo motor. There will always be people out there who say they got, or can get, a better deal, and will tell you that you got ripped off. The quality of the parts is what you need to know to determine value. Compression check, leak-down test, details of the head rebuild (new valves, rockers, cam? - that would be worth a lot more than $200). You don't have enough information to make a well-informed decision.

I enjoy the battles. Usually learn something new. This thread is really interesting because we've got Nistune and Delco ECUs being discussed, for which I've seen sparse data on the Hybridz site. Sir Arthur, I mean Tony D, usually calls people out when they make absolute statements with no backing evidence. If they can come back with the support, everybody learns something. "Self-tuning" is the latest hot topic in the aftermarket EFI world. MSD, FAST, Mass-Flo and Holley all have "self-tuning" EFI systems from what I've browsed at the local Barnes and Noble. Six-shooter is sharing some good knowledge about what exactly that means for the Delco systems, also in general. It's all good from my seat.

I think that the point about the RPM limit is about quality, not quantity. For some reason this comes to mind, although the characters don't quite match up. Tis but a scratch...

Surprised you haven't got a response yet since you have a question about real tuning on something that you're actually working on. Have you looked through the Megasquirt site? Down on the left menu, there's a link to tuning instructions for MS-II. There's a whole section on using MAP or TPS to add acceleration enrichment. Looks like it fits your first issue. http://www.megasquirt.info/ > Tuning Megasquirt-II on the left menu > about 2/3 down on the page is "Setting the Acceleration Enrichments"

Plugs are used to fill holes. When you say "cold start" do you mean AAR and cold start valve (injector)? The intake system and crankcase have to be completely sealed from outside air. All air must pass through the AFM. Seal all of the holes you've created. The thermotime switch just controls power to the cold start injector, when the key is at Start only.

The combustion chamber volumes are quite a bit different on the P90 vs the N42. Your CRs will be different. What's wrong with the N47 and P79? Are you avoiding exhaust liners?

I asked about tuning and that's what you replied with so I assumed it was a tuning example. I'm seeing an increase in boost, manually, and an intercooler to allow it without detonation, but still not seeing any EFI programming. Not clear on why the AFRs would be rich on a stock tune, just because of a boost increase and an intercooler. Is it going in to "limp home" mode when it sees MAPs outside of factory limits? Plus, wouldn't this situation be the point of a "tunable" EFI system, and a good opportunity to use it. Why did you live with the "mildly rich" AFRs if Nistune is tunable and you were tuning? I'm just not seeing any use of what the Z31 system with Nistune is supposed to offer. These examples are like the guys that use the RRFPRs to run a turbo on a stock NA ECU. It works but crudely. Where is the fine control to produce a clean running, powerful engine with modern car qualities, like good power with a smooth clean idle and good gas mileage to top it off, that EFI tuning should give? It's just a manual boost increase and a bigger exhaust system. I really don't see anything here that's much better than the old analog EFI system. Seems like a Nistune system could do better.

If I understand your reply right, you're saying that a stock VG30E with a stock Nissan turbo setup, will produce 250RWHP using a European Domestic market ECU, an FMIC, 3" exhaust and plenum spacer? Just plug the European ECU in and bolt the parts on? The low RPM timing advance increase won't have any effect on max RWHP. Trying to understand where the tuning is to create the horsepower. It looks like you plugged in a Euro spec. ECU and adjusted low RPM timing and added some mechanical parts. Wikipedia says that the Euro 300Zx made 247 HP (SAE crankshaft calculation I assume) due to a Euro spec. camshaft, and the domestic turbo made 200. Is it the 3" exhaust, FMIC and plenum spacer? With stock domestic camshaft? From the Wiki - "This new V6 (2960 cc) Single overhead cam engine was available as a naturally aspirated VG30E or a turbocharged VG30ET producing 160 hp (119 kW) and 200 hp (150 kW) respectively." "European models The European models made 241 hp (180 kW) [13] in turbo form due to a better camshaft profile, also known outside of Europe as the Nismo camshafts." Just trying to see what's what. Details trump all...

The coefficient of thermal expansion is very high for most plastics, especially un-reinforced, compared to other materials. Slotted or oversize holes to allow the plastic piece to move independently is the common way to attach large pieces, to reduce warping in hot environments. This is overkill, but here's an example from a materials supplier, Page 26 - http://plastics.dupont.com/plastics/pdflit/americas/general/H76838.pdf Here's another reference - http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html Just a few odd facts to twist up your day...

To get back on track, with some facts, how about some examples? You've said the above several times, but you're running SUs on your Z and have one grainy video to show. I, personally, would like to know more about using a Z31 EFI setup with Nistune. The write-ups around the Z forums are fairly vague and never go in to much detail, besides matching wire colors. How about an example of a Nistune tuned Z31? How about describing that 250 whp turbo 86 in your sig? That would be something worth hearing about. You could share some knowledge with Buffalo_Z about tuning SUs and tuning with Nistune. He even asked about upgrading to a later model EFI system in his first post.

Don't really want to get in to the battle but this statement makes no sense. Why it would take more skill to use a computer and do your tuning looking at AFRs and adjusting fuel and timing compared to actually understanding what the keys you're punching on the computer are actually doing? This just seems like the typical "I don't understand it therefore it must be crap" attitude. Pretty weak.

You're not showing broken differential parts. Why do you need to change your differential?

The broken pintle cap won't affect anything. Either something got bumped or broken while you were fixing things or you reconnected something incorrectly. Good luck. Often, the best path is to start confirming that things are working correctly. Check fuel pressure, confirm injectors firing, no vacuum leaks, etc. The engine will run on three cylinders. It will shake on five or less. Check plugs for fouling, wires for sparking, and onward...

Sounds like you might have reversed the inlet and outlet lines on your fuel rail (didn't you post a similar problem somewhere else or was that a different person?). That would cause it to run at full fuel pump pressure, which would be high, which would cause the engine to run rich, which would be okay when cold and which would probably need more air (throttle) to stay running when warm. Check that the line from the top of the fuel filter goes directly to the fuel rail, not the FPR, and that the FPR is connected directly to the return line. You should measure fuel pressure also. Maybe you got some crud in the FPR and it's clogged. The short lines on the injectors are easy to replace. Search around and you'll probably find a write-up on it. It's just a press fit of the right length of good quality 5/16" fuel injection hose.

Here's a few good sites to browse through. Really depends on if you like working on cars, driving them or both. You might spend more time on the first than the second, for a few months at least. $500 might be a good price if it's not rusted away. http://zhome.com/ http://forum.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://motorsportauto.com/ http://www.rockauto.com/

If you have to live with the smoke, one of these would at least add some cool -

One of the thermostat housing bolt holes is tapped through to the timing chain area. If you put a longer bolt in it might have pushed the chain guide in to the chain. Or you might have bent the guide when you were drilling and tapping the broken bolt out. Just one possibility. It's not uncommon from what I've heard and seen (one of the engines I have has a bent guide with a circular bolt mark on it). Mine with the bent guide seemed to run fine, I didn't know it was bent until I took the head off. You might try replacing the bolt, and see if it stops ticking. The mis-firing would be from something else. The odds of your chain jumping a tooth are tiny. The ticking could also be from an exhaust leak. More ideas...

3rd thing - turn the Caps Lock button off... Seriously, you'll get more responses.

Browse around the OReilly site using the Compatibility tab when you're looking at a part. It suggests that you might be right. The disc looks interchangeable (80 Nissan vehicles) but the kit not as much (29 Nissan vehicles). http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SAC0/SD612/01344.oap?year=1985&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&vi=1209529&ck=Search_clutch+plate+disc_01344_1209529_-1&keyword=clutch+plate+disc&pt=01344&ppt=C0015

They all should have backed in (coincidentally, related to how I failed a forklift driver job interview test, many years ago) - Car #4 is a Z.

Looks like there might be one in Salt Lake City - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=25000 If the link doesn't work just go to the Pick n Pull site and check inventory - http://www.picknpull.com/default.aspx

Have you checked timing? If it runs, then coil and module are probably doing their jobs. If you put the second pickup in its original spot, the timing wil be off. And what do you mean by "not well"? Could mean almost anything. The first module might have died due to poor grounding. They need a good solid ground for the coil current. Your sheet metal screw in to the fender may not be good enough. I'm not a transistor or ignition expert, but these are the basics for the GM HEI module. Pretty sure that the pickups are identical.

There's only 25 pins used at the ECCS connector. The purpose of each is shown in the FSM. A little time with an ohm-meter and you'd probably have it figured out. Just saying'. Always good to double-check anyway. Plus you can test the components on the ends of the wires at the same time.

A 77-78 body probably requires a cat and EGR. 75 most likely has neither. Just an observation.

Congrats. Hard to believe after the long trail. It's always the little things that get you. Now that it's working right, you should probably make sure that the vacuum advance breaker plate isn't rusted frozen, just to get full benefits. The vacuum advance can will eventually break the plastic bearing holder if it's stuck too hard. Might have to take it apart, remove some rust and relube it. And don't forget to open up the gap on your plugs to take advantage of the stronger spark. .040" is about the common standard for electronic ignition.