NewZed

If there's residual pressure after the clutch pedal is released I think that that means the rod in to the master cylinder is not coming back fully. It's adjusted too tight. It should have a small amount of play to allow the piston in the master cylinder to come all the way back, opening the port to the reservoir, relieving pressure. There's a similar problem occasionally described for brake master cylinders where the brakes slowly stop releasing and eventually lock up as the fluid gets hot. The master cylinder piston blocks the return port in to the reservoir, the fluid heats up and expands, brakes get applied.

Sorry about that, I knew I shouldn't have posted. Good news for you. By the way, since the gland nut fits on the back tube, then the amount your guy cut off would be the difference in length between the original strut insert with spacer and the one that's in there now. Just sayin', math-wise, since the strut tube length has to match the insert length plus spacer (if used), after cutting, to get the gland nut to do its job. I'm done...

Just a neophyte's view - in Post #5, you said the fronts look perfect but Picture 4 shows only about 1.5" of shock travel, with no load on the strut. logr had the key comment I think, about stroke. The whole point of sectioning is to allow the use of a shock absorber (aka insert) in a position where the stroke can be used effectively. You're almost on the bump stops already. And in Post #1 you said that the BZ3012 was a 240Z front. It's a 280Z front for a stock setup, I believe. Maybe just a typo but could be important. Some of the Tokicos appear to be the same shock, just with different numbers, so it may not matter. Good luck with it.

Maybe this clue means something. Is the water temperature sensor still connected correctly? The wires are in the vicinity of the distributor, maybe it got knocked loose. Everything might be fine except it's running super rich because the ECU thinks you're up in Canada in the winter time.

Here's another writeup for the 71C (300ZX) or 71H (240SX) case (bellhousing) swaps. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 And from atlanticz - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html Here's one for the SR gear box, which appears to be the same as the 71C and 71H - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/40643-tutorial-sr-gearbox-onto-l-series-engine/page__p__331608__fromsearch__1#entry331608

Maybe you got your "Distance Pieces" swapped. Check out this picture (for 1976 but probably the same) or the FSM, Rear Axle section, if you have it. The letter on the piece has to match the letter on the housing. By the way, if they were swapped, then the other side might have damaged bearings now. If I understand the drawings right, a short distance piece will allow the full 180 ft-lbs of pressure on the inner race, across the ball bearings to the outer race. Does the side that looks correct turn after tightening?

Measure from inner flange to outer flange on each side. The measurement should be the same. If there's a problem with the one with the shallow nut, it will be wider. Why is your thread titled "Half shaft issues" but you're discussing axles and companion flanges? Did you try the shaft and it's too long?

Browse through the FSM for 83 and you'll see that the turbos use the ECCS and NA uses the older ECU (they call it EFI). www.xenons130.com/reference

You can import your pictures in to this program then export them to whatever size you choose. One option, I'm sure there are others. http://picasa.google.com/

Parts 15, 16 and 17 hold the rack down. There's a procedure for tightening during assembly in the FSM. Tighten it down as far as it will go then back it off, about 15-20 degrees I believe (better check). I got an extra 30 degrees out of mine (36 years of wear) and 15 was fairly dry. I stuffed a finger full of bearing grease in while it was open. It seemed to add some tightness (the extra 30 degrees on the screw, not the grease). On a 280Z you can get the parts out (15, 16, 17) while everything's in the car, on the ground if the car's not too low. Edit - actually, I'm not 100% clear on where exactly #15 is pressing on the rack. But it can be adjusted.

No reason to have bigger fluid transfer holes. It just sloshes back and forth from accelerating and breaking anyway. There's one tiny metal trough that hangs from the adapter plate that actually directs fluid to another spot. Make sure it's not bent when you bolt everything back together. There's not much you can clean either without taking it all apart. You can't reach the synchro bearing surfaces or the ball bearings in the adapter plate. The gears don't need to be clean. The odds of getting grit in to places it will do damage are higher the more you try to get it clean. The bearings are designed to allow debris to clear out as the fluid washes past. Best to just take care putting it together, put new fluid in and drive it. My current transmission is a junk yard unit and it took a few thousand miles to start working correctly after sitting wherever it had been sitting. Pretty sure it had some internal surface rust on the synchro cones or some sort of varnish that took time to wear off. You won't really know what you have until it's in the car and you run it through the gears. I ended up using 25% ATF with 75% Swepco 201 gear lube. If the transmission is in decent shape the MT-90 should work fine, but if not, the Swepco might help.

Don't forget to install the countershaft bearing shim in the front cover. I think that the cover gasket is part of the countershaft bearing clearance (or preload) calculation so good idea to get one and use it I think, than use just RTV. Did you install a new main shaft seal in the cover? Easy to do and worth the insurance. Put some RTV on the clutch pivot ball stud threads. They can leak too. Along with the cover bolt threads.

Pretty sure that is a symptom of the AFM not communicating with the ECU. Either it's not connected electrically or the vane is stuck or there's a very huge vacuum leak. All air that enters the engine has to go through the AFM so that the ECU can direct the injectors to add the appropriate amount of fuel. Just one possibility.

Engine - 500 Megasquirt - 500 Harness - 100 Head rebuild - 200 $1300 just for an incomplete set of parts. My estimates are probably (almost certainly) low. You might be missing an opportunity if you really want a turbo motor. There will always be people out there who say they got, or can get, a better deal, and will tell you that you got ripped off. The quality of the parts is what you need to know to determine value. Compression check, leak-down test, details of the head rebuild (new valves, rockers, cam? - that would be worth a lot more than $200). You don't have enough information to make a well-informed decision.

I enjoy the battles. Usually learn something new. This thread is really interesting because we've got Nistune and Delco ECUs being discussed, for which I've seen sparse data on the Hybridz site. Sir Arthur, I mean Tony D, usually calls people out when they make absolute statements with no backing evidence. If they can come back with the support, everybody learns something. "Self-tuning" is the latest hot topic in the aftermarket EFI world. MSD, FAST, Mass-Flo and Holley all have "self-tuning" EFI systems from what I've browsed at the local Barnes and Noble. Six-shooter is sharing some good knowledge about what exactly that means for the Delco systems, also in general. It's all good from my seat.

I think that the point about the RPM limit is about quality, not quantity. For some reason this comes to mind, although the characters don't quite match up. Tis but a scratch...

Surprised you haven't got a response yet since you have a question about real tuning on something that you're actually working on. Have you looked through the Megasquirt site? Down on the left menu, there's a link to tuning instructions for MS-II. There's a whole section on using MAP or TPS to add acceleration enrichment. Looks like it fits your first issue. http://www.megasquirt.info/ > Tuning Megasquirt-II on the left menu > about 2/3 down on the page is "Setting the Acceleration Enrichments"

Plugs are used to fill holes. When you say "cold start" do you mean AAR and cold start valve (injector)? The intake system and crankcase have to be completely sealed from outside air. All air must pass through the AFM. Seal all of the holes you've created. The thermotime switch just controls power to the cold start injector, when the key is at Start only.

The combustion chamber volumes are quite a bit different on the P90 vs the N42. Your CRs will be different. What's wrong with the N47 and P79? Are you avoiding exhaust liners?

I asked about tuning and that's what you replied with so I assumed it was a tuning example. I'm seeing an increase in boost, manually, and an intercooler to allow it without detonation, but still not seeing any EFI programming. Not clear on why the AFRs would be rich on a stock tune, just because of a boost increase and an intercooler. Is it going in to "limp home" mode when it sees MAPs outside of factory limits? Plus, wouldn't this situation be the point of a "tunable" EFI system, and a good opportunity to use it. Why did you live with the "mildly rich" AFRs if Nistune is tunable and you were tuning? I'm just not seeing any use of what the Z31 system with Nistune is supposed to offer. These examples are like the guys that use the RRFPRs to run a turbo on a stock NA ECU. It works but crudely. Where is the fine control to produce a clean running, powerful engine with modern car qualities, like good power with a smooth clean idle and good gas mileage to top it off, that EFI tuning should give? It's just a manual boost increase and a bigger exhaust system. I really don't see anything here that's much better than the old analog EFI system. Seems like a Nistune system could do better.

If I understand your reply right, you're saying that a stock VG30E with a stock Nissan turbo setup, will produce 250RWHP using a European Domestic market ECU, an FMIC, 3" exhaust and plenum spacer? Just plug the European ECU in and bolt the parts on? The low RPM timing advance increase won't have any effect on max RWHP. Trying to understand where the tuning is to create the horsepower. It looks like you plugged in a Euro spec. ECU and adjusted low RPM timing and added some mechanical parts. Wikipedia says that the Euro 300Zx made 247 HP (SAE crankshaft calculation I assume) due to a Euro spec. camshaft, and the domestic turbo made 200. Is it the 3" exhaust, FMIC and plenum spacer? With stock domestic camshaft? From the Wiki - "This new V6 (2960 cc) Single overhead cam engine was available as a naturally aspirated VG30E or a turbocharged VG30ET producing 160 hp (119 kW) and 200 hp (150 kW) respectively." "European models The European models made 241 hp (180 kW) [13] in turbo form due to a better camshaft profile, also known outside of Europe as the Nismo camshafts." Just trying to see what's what. Details trump all...

The coefficient of thermal expansion is very high for most plastics, especially un-reinforced, compared to other materials. Slotted or oversize holes to allow the plastic piece to move independently is the common way to attach large pieces, to reduce warping in hot environments. This is overkill, but here's an example from a materials supplier, Page 26 - http://plastics.dupont.com/plastics/pdflit/americas/general/H76838.pdf Here's another reference - http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html Just a few odd facts to twist up your day...

To get back on track, with some facts, how about some examples? You've said the above several times, but you're running SUs on your Z and have one grainy video to show. I, personally, would like to know more about using a Z31 EFI setup with Nistune. The write-ups around the Z forums are fairly vague and never go in to much detail, besides matching wire colors. How about an example of a Nistune tuned Z31? How about describing that 250 whp turbo 86 in your sig? That would be something worth hearing about. You could share some knowledge with Buffalo_Z about tuning SUs and tuning with Nistune. He even asked about upgrading to a later model EFI system in his first post.

Don't really want to get in to the battle but this statement makes no sense. Why it would take more skill to use a computer and do your tuning looking at AFRs and adjusting fuel and timing compared to actually understanding what the keys you're punching on the computer are actually doing? This just seems like the typical "I don't understand it therefore it must be crap" attitude. Pretty weak.

You're not showing broken differential parts. Why do you need to change your differential?