NewZed

I think that what kaito was saying is that the VG30ET (turbo) came with the FS5R90A (BW T-5) transmission. It won't swap (at least not easily like the FS5W71C). The VG30E NA 5 speed, FS5W71C, will swap, per your instructions.

The P90 has a larger combustion chamber, same as the P79, than an N42 or N47 head (280Z). Used with dished pistons, for low CR, in the turbo application or flat tops, for higher CR, in NA. This calculator will give you some general ideas for brainstorming, it seems to be fairly accurate - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Not sure why you're quoting valve sizes for other engines since you said you were installing 280Z valves in an E88 head. The whole hemispherical combustion chamber thing is just an old idea of perfection that has been hyped and marketed and recently re-marketed by Chrysler. Essentially meaningless. Besides, I don't think that the E88 chambers are hemispherical (whatever that really means). My point was that a 280Z head on an L28 block makes more sense than a 260Z head with 280Z size valves on an L28 block. Especially if you're on a student's budget with bills. The 280Z head combustion chamber will fit the bore correctly and the runners are already sized (I'm guessing here that the runners on an N42 or N47 head flow more volume than the runners on an E88 head - assuming the same size valves [280Z valves in this case] and similar cam. I could be wrong) for the valves. Just trying to help you save some time and money.

That's not what he said.

I'm not an expert on the details of the various heads, but an E88 head with 280X valves is probably essentially the same, or worse flow-wise since it's designed for smaller valves, than an N42 or N47 head. Your engine specs. look a lot like a 75-78 280Z engine. Might be easier to just buy a complete 280Z or 280ZX engine. Just guessing. If you're re-using your old parts to save money, it might make sense, but if you're building something for more power potential, I don't think there's much there.

Carbs running rich and water in the cylinders are not directly related. Water in a cylinder though, could have caused it to seize with rust. The water could have come from the outside or the inside of the engine, through the manifold or maybe a blown head gasket. Careful removing the head, if the water came from the inside, you might also have some rusted head bolts.

Well, he has a variety of paths to choose from. Let's see which route he takes through the maze. I'm assuming it's an automatic, since the problem is apparently speed, not RPM, related. Could be another clue.

Still sounds backwards. Fixing something that you don't know is broken. But these cars are mostly time-filling hobbies anyway, so have at it. Rebuild the engine while the tank is out, it probably needs it anyway. Can't hurt anything but the wallet.

A fuel pressure gauge mounted where you can see it while the problem happens will let you split the problem in to pieces. If fuel pressure stays in spec., the problem is not with the tank, pump, filter, lines or FPR (although they might still have problems), so injectors might be the problem (still no guarantee). If fuel pressure drops out of spec., creating a lean condition, then look at those things and get the fuel pressure back up where it should be. Fuel pressure control at the injectors is so important it just makes sense to measure it first. Just one more opinion from a guy who likes to see the numbers. Edit - don't forget the other half of fuel supply either - air. Maybe there's a mouse living in the air filter housing.

A cylinder pressure check would tell you if the valves are damaged and/or opening and closing correctly. Plug wires installed in backward rotation order, maybe, as another possibility.

If it starts then dies, the CSV is probably doing its job. The CSV only squirts when the key is at Start. Sounds like your injectors aren't firing (assuming that the fuel pump is working). Does your tach work when it does start for 1 second? The blue wire to Pin #1 needs to be intact. You shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump run either unless someone has bypassed the fuel pump cutoff switch in the AFM.

Deleted. Speechless.

Try starting fluid through a port in to the intake manifold. If it starts, revs, then dies, your problem is probably fuel not spark.

The point was that the FSM is full of good information on how things are supposed to be. Apparently your two sources don't include the FSM, since 36.3 is the spec. number in the FSM. Your increase in pressure with revving might be due to the fuel pump voltage control modulator used on some of the ZXes, if you included it in your swap. Just a guess. Or your electrical system is not supplying full voltage at idle and revving increases voltage to the pump. Everything's described in the Engine Fuel and Emissions section. If I understand the turbo motors correctly, running lean is a very good way to cause detonation. So you might be on the path to "Finally got my L28ET running and it blew up! Why?" The FSM is your friend. Good luck.

2 volts is not enough. You have bad connections somewhere. If the engine turns over, you must have around 12 at the battery.

How about a picture of those home-made adjusters? Just for amusement. Curious to see the "trunk" open also and if there's any strut tower bracing.

Whole engine up in Oregon - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3107789535.html And another Oregon guy who has lots of parts. Don't know if he ships though - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3148070534.html

Do these numbers match the spec. in the FSM for your control system? Might be a clue to your problem.

Use an ohm-meter to test if a wire is grounded before connecting it to the positive terminal of the battery. If it is, do not connect it to positive. Sparks are bad.

Use Google and "280Z 5 speed swap" and you'll get pages of reading from all over the internet.

Have you measured the timing, static and when revving? The basics of what timing an engine needs don't change much with ECUs. Static/initial should be about 10 degree +/- a few, and should advance up in to the high 20s or 30s when revved up with no load. This will tell if the initial timing is right and if the ECU is controlling timing like it should, which should also tell you that the ECU is getting the right CAS signal to control injectors with. Just a simple unprecise check of whether or not the electrical components are hooked up right and working. If it checks out then you can focus on mechanical/physical stuff, like fuel pressure, injectors, valve lash, etc.

Isn't stock 1.25 mm? 1.0 isn't much of a bump, is it? About 0.2 increase for a stock L28.

Note that I said it was a symptom, not a certainty, and gave a good diagnostic, for a good ECU anyway. There is anecdotal evidence for ECUs causing flooding. To be more clear. What is "blue streak"? Do you guys offer a rebuild service for individuals? Sounds interesting.

Actually, flooding the engine is a symptom of a bad ECU. Some people have found that the solder connections to the circuit board were faulty and that tweaking the connector or even banging on the ECU would fix the problem. I had one go bad, flooding the engine, but didn't try the beating approach, I just swapped ECUs. The one that went bad on me had no apparent cause. I was testing it to make sure it was good and it took me a mile down the road before crapping out. It would restart and drive for a short time but then die again with lots of gas smell. It had also been on a car that sat for ten years. These Zs seem to be a "use it or lose it" kind of car. Only a bad alternator should "spike". A new one shouldn't cause problems. Edit - your mechanic must be using a scope. If he compares events at the coil negative, or blue wire from coil negative, with the injectors, he should see a three to one ratio, three sparks to one injection, for a properly functioning system.