NewZed

So you're running the F54/P79 block and head with the 76 ECU and AFM? Comparing power to the 76 N42/N42 with 76 ECU and AFM? Curious. I have a spare 81 NA engine and wondered how it would do with the 76 EFI.

No problem. If I'd noticed you were from Norway I would have measured in metric.

Turn the key On and measure voltage to ground from the coil (+). then do the same from the coil (-). If you don't have voltage there you won't have voltage at Pin #1. If you have voltage at the coil (+) but not coil (-) then you have a bad coil. If you don't have voltage at coil (+) at all then you have a power supply problem to the coil. If you have power at coil (+) and coil (-) but none at Pin #1 then you have a break in the circuit from coil (-) to Pin #1 that you will have to track down.

The post for the negative side would just be a terminal for connecting wires. It might not even be used. You'll have to take some measurements to know what's working working right.

Check that you have 12 volts at coil (-) with the key On. If not, check coil (+). You should have 12 volts on both sides with the key On. If you have 12 volts at coil (-), then check the following: There is a blue wire connected to the coil (-) post that runs through the harness to Pin #1. If you're not getting 12 volts at Pin 1 there must be a break in the circuit somewhere. Could be at the coil or anywhere in between. 77 still has the ballast resistor. I think that the blue wire actually connects to a post on the ballast that is also connected to coil (-). If you've messed with the wires at the coil and ballast, find that blue wire, check continuity (resistance) to Pin 1, then connect it to coil (-) of it's the correct wire.

I measured 2 11/16" on the rod from a spare 280Z slave.

5 years ago you had an L6 short block built, supposedly with parts that you had brought in. You've been revving it to 8,000 RPM with a blow-through turbo since then. It broke a ring land and the owner of the shop is going to help you out with free work and gaskets. I would like to know the name of that shop. This has turned from a shop-bashing thread to a shop-praising thread.

Lucky for you. A shop that covers for 5 year old mistakes is a pretty good shop. Are you saying that you provided Wiseco forged pistons and the Seattle shop swapped them on you? Or they sold you Wiseco but put something else in? Or they are Wiseco but blew up due to high revs and/or poor lubrication? Doesn't improper lubrication and/or too high RPM imply scuffing/seizing and heat buildup? Where do the broken ring lands come in? Still curious.

You could check power to the coil as a backdoor way to check the mechanical part of the switch. Key On/Run should have coil power, then key Start uses a different circuit for the coil and solenoid. If power to the coil disappears it's probably your ignition switch. Just offering clues for your puzzle...

The font used for the numbers on the face changed over the years. Someone might recognize the year if you showed a picture of the front. Just for fun.

No offense, but if it was my car,the next step would be to test for voltage at the solenoid wire (the little wire) when the key is turned to Start. And here's another not so common possibility - the mechanical pieces of my ignition switch got so worn that they would not turn the electrical portion of the actual switch. I had to take the switch assembly off the column, open it up, and bend the flat rod that transfers the twist from the key to the switch, to give a little more twist when I turned the key. If you've never had one apart you'll figure it out when you do.

Gave up? Bummer. No Megasquirt for you.

The little wire to the solenoid is disconnected?

If you read the first three threads in the link below, it will help quite a bit in getting good responses from people who know how to make things work. Kind of like not talking with your mouth full, the words are the same but nobody wants to talk to the guy with food spilling out of his mouth. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/68-new-members-forum/ And numbers are always good, to let people know that you've actually measured something and aren't just guessing or assuming. For example, a number here would be excellent - "as for the fuel pressure it is fine as well."

They look like mine. If you look close at the bearing cups you might see KOYO as another clue, at least to where the u-joints came from, if they haven't been changed. You had a Z and you don't have a pile of spare parts to dig through for comparison?

Here's another VLSD reference. It's the short nose though, but should be similar/same, I would assume - http://www.xenonz31.com/vlsdInstall.html

In Post #13 I was going to suggest that you check your FPR for a blown diaphragm. I'm guessing I should have left that comment in. Is that the vacuum line to the FPR pointed at the cold spot? Vaporizing fuel and loss of pressure regulation?

The 73 FSM page BE-5 has a legible wiring diagram if you want one more to look at. Shows power to the coil (+) terminal as - Ignition switch > GW wire > Tach > BW wire > Coil (+) terminal So if you don't have power running through the tach on (GW in) and (BW out) you won't get any needle movement. Assuming the FSM represents what you have and is not in error. www.xenons30.com/reference

If it will run but won't idle, and the idle adjustment screw doesn't have any effect, I would look for vacuum leaks. That would lean out the mix, causing cold start problems that would diminish when warm. A hose might have split. Don't forget that the PVC system is connected to the intake.

Sounds like a part that is common to both setups. Fuel system - pump, filter, FPR - or ignition. Fuel pressure when it happens would tell you something.

So you did find signs of detonation or not? "Scoring" in the combustion chamber? Just curious about cause of the problem.

Since you're injecting simultaneously you could swap injector connections around to check injector vs. spark.

Maybe thinking of the one on this page, down under Other Reference Documents - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Edit - Or not. There's not much in those pages. I've seen similar though in a separate document, not the FSM. Maybe here - http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html Z31 R200 Differential Service Manual under Other Guides Edit 2 - I guess that link is to a chapter from an FSM. Looks like 89.

That's a capacitor aka condenser, not a resistor. One end is hot (probably when the key is on), the other end goes to ground. No help on the female bullet. Floating in space like that it could connect to anything. Might be for the capacitor.

Aeromotive FPRs leak down very quickly once the fuel pump turns off, due to the design of the valve. It's a pain for a daily driver, you have to wait for the pressure to build up before the engine will start, after every shutoff. I had one at one time (it was cheap and I needed an FPR) but switched back to a good stock FPR.