NewZed

The 78 and 76 ECUs are interchangeable in some cases. I have a 78 ECU on my 76, the part numbers are the same. The voltage regulation is external to the alternator for 76 and internal for 78. So you'll need to decide which way to go on that. The AFM and its wiring is another difference. The 76 has the fuel pump relay contacts in the AFM, the 78 uses an oil pressure switch and alternator voltage to a dedicated relay for fuel pump control. The 78 AFM might still have the contacts, but the 78 harness won't. The 76 coil and ignition module uses a ballast resistor, the 78 doesn't. All three things can be figured out and worked around pretty easily.

This is interesting stuff, but far from "classic" Z car. Have you been on Hybridz yet? www.hybridz.org Edit - Thought I was on a different forum. Leaving it here for entertainment...

No need to get smart. Your first post says "stock" and describes a bunch of very basic mistakes from your professionals in getting a stock engine running. Your money... And 30 psi is not right. You can't fake this stuff. There's too much easy information out there.

I was just pointing out some flaws in the picture. "He knows his ****. Hes not very familiar with Z cars" seems like a contradiction though. It looks like the shop and the tuner are learning on your engine. Reading the chapter in the FSM about the L28ET engine control system would have told them all about the timing and the other things that can cause a rich AFR. Is the aftermarket FPR adustable and is the fuel pressure set to the factory spec.? If they didn't know how to set timing, they probably are guessing high on the fuel pressure. Hondas probably run 45 psi or higher. If they couldn't get the timing to spec., there's no need to do more tuning, since the ECCS needs the right timing. It was off by 16 degrees. Another odd thing - "The shop says they set the timing that way to avoid pinging when I turn the boost up to 10 Lbs." Is the stock L28ET boost adjustable? How are you going to turn up the boost? Why is this experienced Z shop thinking this way? Anyway, good luck with it. I just hate to see a wallet being abused.

I would be nervous about the shop if they got the timing wrong the first time, on a stock engine. Are they the premier Datsun shop, like expert in old Nissans, or the premier Nissan shop, like don't know much about old Nissans. I would be nervous about the "tuner" guy. If he knew that you had a stock engine and you couldn't get the timing advanced, modifying the disc in the distributor is not the obvious first solution attempt. I would also be nervous about his AFM adjustments, also not the first thing to do for a rich mixture. If it's all stock - "stock L28ET swap( stock injectors, fuel pump, etc) - with a stock ECCS, there's really no tuning to do on a dyno either, as I understand the stock system. What non-stock part have you added that can be tuned?

This thread is informative - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ Post #3 is intake, but the rest is definitely worth reading also.

No problem, just adding some clarity. But.... - the late model ZX style "close ratio" transmissions have the single exhaust mounting ear, and the speedo gear hold-down screw on the bottom, as in Post #1's picture. So rejracer got that part. The early ones have the double mounts and the screw on the top. I have both styles sitting in my garage and just went out to look and be be clear - crystal. For 240devilz any transmission from late 1971 to 1983, 4 or 5 speed should swap in directly, or with the bellhousing swap a 5 speed from an NA 300ZX, or 240SX (not sure on years, the info is out there). Where are you located that you can't find one? It's all good. Can't have too much information. It should all be verified though.

I think that what kaito was saying is that the VG30ET (turbo) came with the FS5R90A (BW T-5) transmission. It won't swap (at least not easily like the FS5W71C). The VG30E NA 5 speed, FS5W71C, will swap, per your instructions.

The P90 has a larger combustion chamber, same as the P79, than an N42 or N47 head (280Z). Used with dished pistons, for low CR, in the turbo application or flat tops, for higher CR, in NA. This calculator will give you some general ideas for brainstorming, it seems to be fairly accurate - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Not sure why you're quoting valve sizes for other engines since you said you were installing 280Z valves in an E88 head. The whole hemispherical combustion chamber thing is just an old idea of perfection that has been hyped and marketed and recently re-marketed by Chrysler. Essentially meaningless. Besides, I don't think that the E88 chambers are hemispherical (whatever that really means). My point was that a 280Z head on an L28 block makes more sense than a 260Z head with 280Z size valves on an L28 block. Especially if you're on a student's budget with bills. The 280Z head combustion chamber will fit the bore correctly and the runners are already sized (I'm guessing here that the runners on an N42 or N47 head flow more volume than the runners on an E88 head - assuming the same size valves [280Z valves in this case] and similar cam. I could be wrong) for the valves. Just trying to help you save some time and money.

That's not what he said.

I'm not an expert on the details of the various heads, but an E88 head with 280X valves is probably essentially the same, or worse flow-wise since it's designed for smaller valves, than an N42 or N47 head. Your engine specs. look a lot like a 75-78 280Z engine. Might be easier to just buy a complete 280Z or 280ZX engine. Just guessing. If you're re-using your old parts to save money, it might make sense, but if you're building something for more power potential, I don't think there's much there.

Carbs running rich and water in the cylinders are not directly related. Water in a cylinder though, could have caused it to seize with rust. The water could have come from the outside or the inside of the engine, through the manifold or maybe a blown head gasket. Careful removing the head, if the water came from the inside, you might also have some rusted head bolts.

Well, he has a variety of paths to choose from. Let's see which route he takes through the maze. I'm assuming it's an automatic, since the problem is apparently speed, not RPM, related. Could be another clue.

Still sounds backwards. Fixing something that you don't know is broken. But these cars are mostly time-filling hobbies anyway, so have at it. Rebuild the engine while the tank is out, it probably needs it anyway. Can't hurt anything but the wallet.

A fuel pressure gauge mounted where you can see it while the problem happens will let you split the problem in to pieces. If fuel pressure stays in spec., the problem is not with the tank, pump, filter, lines or FPR (although they might still have problems), so injectors might be the problem (still no guarantee). If fuel pressure drops out of spec., creating a lean condition, then look at those things and get the fuel pressure back up where it should be. Fuel pressure control at the injectors is so important it just makes sense to measure it first. Just one more opinion from a guy who likes to see the numbers. Edit - don't forget the other half of fuel supply either - air. Maybe there's a mouse living in the air filter housing.

A cylinder pressure check would tell you if the valves are damaged and/or opening and closing correctly. Plug wires installed in backward rotation order, maybe, as another possibility.

If it starts then dies, the CSV is probably doing its job. The CSV only squirts when the key is at Start. Sounds like your injectors aren't firing (assuming that the fuel pump is working). Does your tach work when it does start for 1 second? The blue wire to Pin #1 needs to be intact. You shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump run either unless someone has bypassed the fuel pump cutoff switch in the AFM.

Deleted. Speechless.

Try starting fluid through a port in to the intake manifold. If it starts, revs, then dies, your problem is probably fuel not spark.

The point was that the FSM is full of good information on how things are supposed to be. Apparently your two sources don't include the FSM, since 36.3 is the spec. number in the FSM. Your increase in pressure with revving might be due to the fuel pump voltage control modulator used on some of the ZXes, if you included it in your swap. Just a guess. Or your electrical system is not supplying full voltage at idle and revving increases voltage to the pump. Everything's described in the Engine Fuel and Emissions section. If I understand the turbo motors correctly, running lean is a very good way to cause detonation. So you might be on the path to "Finally got my L28ET running and it blew up! Why?" The FSM is your friend. Good luck.

2 volts is not enough. You have bad connections somewhere. If the engine turns over, you must have around 12 at the battery.

How about a picture of those home-made adjusters? Just for amusement. Curious to see the "trunk" open also and if there's any strut tower bracing.

Whole engine up in Oregon - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3107789535.html And another Oregon guy who has lots of parts. Don't know if he ships though - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3148070534.html