NewZed

Just browsed the posts, but it looks to me like you're running turbo injectors with an NA control system. If so, the ECU is sending NA pulse durations to high flow turbo injectors. Should lead to too much gas. Could explain the rich condition, maybe not your other problems. Unless the 84-86 Z31 swap you did was from an 84-86 turbo Z31.

Edit - Had some suggestions here, but they were random. Your best bet is to study the wiring diagram and figure out which circuit controls power to the pump and could be affected by a timing device, then focus on that circuit. The FSM may not mention the timer, but the wires still connect the various relays, oil pressure sensor and alternator. Edit 2 - By the way, 5 seconds of fuel passing through the rail will have little affect on "heat soak".

Check your battery cable connections. And battery quality.

Kind of sounds like low fuel pressure, with the recent tank work. WOT lets more gas out, apparently just enough to start or get one lean back fire. Measure fuel pressure.

Seems like there might be some deviation from the original goal. Unless the proposal is that better ignition timing and stronger spark at high RPM will make it start faster. Just observing. No turbo, but my essentially stock NA engine, with no CSV, and a fuel system that holds pressure, starts within 1-2 seconds cold or hot, every time. There should be a simple way to get there with MS2, I would think.

Looks like you have a turbo engine and head with 1978 EFI parts attached to try and make it run. That's probably a rising rate fuel pressure regulator sitting on the fuel rail. It's a fairly common way to try and get by if the factory parts aren't available. I've never seen anyone report that they love that setup after it's done though. Most say it's "ok". So you're back to your original question about the automatic harness versus the manual harness with a manual ECU. Odds are good that it will work. If there is an issue, it's probably just a wire or two that can be easily fixed. If you check the wiring diagrams in the engine Fuel section of the FSM, you'll probably see a dotted line or two labeled "automatic" to show what's different. That's my semi-educated guess. You'll still need the distributor with drive shaft though, to work with the ECU.

Here's an interesting thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107321-heads-are-tested-need-cam-help/page__p__1004088#entry1004088 It's even in the same forum.

Which Z?

Valve lash increases (looser valves) as the engine heats up, hence the bigger FSM spec. numbers for a hot lash adjustment. Just saying for clarity. The "starts better when cold" might be the better clue. What settings change as the engine gets warm?

Not cheaper though.

The classiczcars guys might know more since they love the early 240Zs. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php Also, if you have the pieces, a complete strut and hub transplant, to the later parts might be an option. Nuts, bolts and a brake line.

The block model number is cast in to the side of the block, just behind and below the driver's side motor mount. Yours should be an F54 block, but could be an N42. Even if it's an F54 though, you could have flat top pistons, not factory issue for the turbo motors. The head number is between the 1 and 2 spark plug holes, on the bottom edge of the head. With the CHTS shown in one of your pictures, yours will probably be a P79, P90 or P90A. Those two numbers will tell you something. Apparently the turbo distributor has a different drive "gear" that's why you have to change the "quill" (? - I think that's the right word) from the oil pump. Your pictures do show some hackiness so you could have a mix of parts. A fun puzzle.

It's just a ratio. If you don't have uneven drag on your wheels, you can mark both wheels and the pinion flange, then turn the drive shaft until both wheels turn one complete revolution. Count the number of turns of the flange to get the ratio. You'll have to guesstimate the .336, .54, .7 or .9 at the end. 1/3, 1/2, 3/4, almost all the way. If the wheels turn unevenly, you can lock one wheel, turn the flange until the other wheel does one revolution and divide the flange turns by 2. Use a torch on the metal around the plugs. Apply heat. It makes a big difference. No link in your last post.

Looks like a repackaged MSD 6AL. http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=36823 See MSD's instructions for the 6AL (6425 PDF, Page 2) - http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx You probably need the adapter.

Just saw a comment by JohnC on zcar.com about "brinnelling" a bearing race (see Brinnell Hardness test). I think that it means damaging a race's bearing surface by pressing the balls in to it with too much pressure. Did you have any problems with installing the new bearings? Any chance that pressure was applied to the wrong race?

Jackstands under the links (LCAs) would allow operation like it's on the ground. A little more work to get it up there.

Are you using an adapter? Procomp is MSD, right? This might help you get your point across - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Elements_of_Style

Aftermarket? That's all I know. Good luck with it. I fixed the link in my last post. Meant to connect to atlanticz's page.

There should be a letter - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm Your picture and description don't quite fit with the cam for an N42 head though. I think that the N42s had the spray bar and the N47s went to the internally oiled cam. No spray bar, plus pretty sure that I see an oil hole on a lobe. Maybe there was a transition period for the cam. Probably an A cam, either way, which seems to be one of the more popular stock cams. Anyway, someone will probably need it in a couple of weeks...

Every week or so someone is looking for a cam with rocker arms and towers. You could sell the head for those parts alone probably.

Have you checked all of the components using the 1983 FSM? If the swap was straight across, no modifications, from an 83 to your car, that would be the place to start. It shouldn't need "tuning" if it's stock. The pieces are designed to work together as-is. www.xenons130.com/reference Here's a popular swap link - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

Some time with the Engine Fuel section of the FSM will save you and your mechanic a ton of time and money. Once the basics don't work, there's no better place to go next. An ohm-meter at the ECU connection with the FSM open will answer a lot of questions and probably lead to the source of the problem. You're at the head of the endless expensive path that many have followed. It's not a carbed small block chevy engine. It's easier than it seems, once you start testing things, it all makes sense.

RonK, I replied to your PM. As I said, he might looking at the vacuum advance switch, not the water temp sensor (WTS), since the WTS doesn't actually have wires, just pins. Easy to check at the ECU connector and worth doing. If the wires at the ECU don't give the right resistance for the temperature then you can look for problems between there and the sensor.

Lots of good info but lots of iffy opinions also in that web page.