NewZed

Read the FSM, it has more detail specific to 1978. Fuel pump relays are probably described in Body Electrical or Engine Fuel. Somewhere out there on the internet is an account of how the 1978 safety system of the oil pressure switch and the alternator output can actually fail itself and cause the fuel pump to run continuously. If I find it I'll post a link.

Most yards have a return for credit policy. Worth asking. They hate giving cash back, of course. Pretty sure that the only difference in the 300Zx long-nose R200 CLSDs and the open diffs is the pinion flange. So your CV splines should plug right in to the 78 R200. I know that 1983 CVs do since I have a set and some R200s. It's implied also, in the Diff thread, since only the 1988 VLSD is the one with the different spline count - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

Somebody would probably trade you a good NA motor straight across, with some cash, for that turbo motor. You'd probably spend more money on the machine work and parts than you would just buying another engine. The turbo engine should have a turbo cam also, which wouldn't be optimum for NA. Just an opinion. Edit - you could also swap the P90 head for an N47 head and get the 1978 engine's compression ratio, since the turbo engine will have dished pistons like the 1978 engine. Plus you'll be able to use your round port exhaust manifold, which is not recommended for square port exhaust. Just thinking...

If you look at pages 50 and 66 in the Engine Fuel and Emission Control section of the 1982 FSM, you'll see actual words from Nissan of the fuel pump relay being "on" for either a few or 5 seconds. There is also a diagram on each page showing the ECU connected to the relay, not the pump. So far, it is the only official publication, described in any of Heroes' threads, from Nissan that verifies power to the relay that controls the pump for a short time without the engine running or in Start mode. No mention of why or if it has a purpose. State of the knowledge of the mystery.

Page 50 and 66 (as you noted) say the pump turns on for either a few or 5 seconds. Those are the only two mentions of a "priming" function that anyone has found and reported. I'm assuming that when the FSM says the relay is on that it is feeding power to the fuel pump. Otherwise the pump would run when the key was off, since the circuit runs directly to the battery +. That's what the diagram implies since the pump has its own ground. It is a puzzle.

That's a good find by ctc. Even better, the FSM seems to imply that the EFI ECU turns on the relay for a "few seconds", page 50 description of the earlier, non ECCS EFI. The diagram and table seem to say that the ECU "monitors" engine RPM by coil pulses to control the power to the relay, but that the relay is energized for a few seconds when the key is turned ON. Seems like the computer is the controller, at least for 1982.

You should start your own thread. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Thread%20Jacking

Your title implies that you're looking for a 240SX trans already converted, but your message says you're looking for a belhousing/front case from an L28 trans so you can do your own.

Raising your idle speed will help. The alt output at low RPM is very low, a hundred RPM makes a difference.

Oh well then. I thought you might be depending on closed loop control to get the mixture right. Good luck with it. You'll probably just have to go through the tedium of doing all of the tests in the FSM.

Just browsed the posts, but it looks to me like you're running turbo injectors with an NA control system. If so, the ECU is sending NA pulse durations to high flow turbo injectors. Should lead to too much gas. Could explain the rich condition, maybe not your other problems. Unless the 84-86 Z31 swap you did was from an 84-86 turbo Z31.

Edit - Had some suggestions here, but they were random. Your best bet is to study the wiring diagram and figure out which circuit controls power to the pump and could be affected by a timing device, then focus on that circuit. The FSM may not mention the timer, but the wires still connect the various relays, oil pressure sensor and alternator. Edit 2 - By the way, 5 seconds of fuel passing through the rail will have little affect on "heat soak".

Check your battery cable connections. And battery quality.

Kind of sounds like low fuel pressure, with the recent tank work. WOT lets more gas out, apparently just enough to start or get one lean back fire. Measure fuel pressure.

Seems like there might be some deviation from the original goal. Unless the proposal is that better ignition timing and stronger spark at high RPM will make it start faster. Just observing. No turbo, but my essentially stock NA engine, with no CSV, and a fuel system that holds pressure, starts within 1-2 seconds cold or hot, every time. There should be a simple way to get there with MS2, I would think.

Looks like you have a turbo engine and head with 1978 EFI parts attached to try and make it run. That's probably a rising rate fuel pressure regulator sitting on the fuel rail. It's a fairly common way to try and get by if the factory parts aren't available. I've never seen anyone report that they love that setup after it's done though. Most say it's "ok". So you're back to your original question about the automatic harness versus the manual harness with a manual ECU. Odds are good that it will work. If there is an issue, it's probably just a wire or two that can be easily fixed. If you check the wiring diagrams in the engine Fuel section of the FSM, you'll probably see a dotted line or two labeled "automatic" to show what's different. That's my semi-educated guess. You'll still need the distributor with drive shaft though, to work with the ECU.

Here's an interesting thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107321-heads-are-tested-need-cam-help/page__p__1004088#entry1004088 It's even in the same forum.

Which Z?

Valve lash increases (looser valves) as the engine heats up, hence the bigger FSM spec. numbers for a hot lash adjustment. Just saying for clarity. The "starts better when cold" might be the better clue. What settings change as the engine gets warm?

Not cheaper though.

The classiczcars guys might know more since they love the early 240Zs. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php Also, if you have the pieces, a complete strut and hub transplant, to the later parts might be an option. Nuts, bolts and a brake line.

The block model number is cast in to the side of the block, just behind and below the driver's side motor mount. Yours should be an F54 block, but could be an N42. Even if it's an F54 though, you could have flat top pistons, not factory issue for the turbo motors. The head number is between the 1 and 2 spark plug holes, on the bottom edge of the head. With the CHTS shown in one of your pictures, yours will probably be a P79, P90 or P90A. Those two numbers will tell you something. Apparently the turbo distributor has a different drive "gear" that's why you have to change the "quill" (? - I think that's the right word) from the oil pump. Your pictures do show some hackiness so you could have a mix of parts. A fun puzzle.

It's just a ratio. If you don't have uneven drag on your wheels, you can mark both wheels and the pinion flange, then turn the drive shaft until both wheels turn one complete revolution. Count the number of turns of the flange to get the ratio. You'll have to guesstimate the .336, .54, .7 or .9 at the end. 1/3, 1/2, 3/4, almost all the way. If the wheels turn unevenly, you can lock one wheel, turn the flange until the other wheel does one revolution and divide the flange turns by 2. Use a torch on the metal around the plugs. Apply heat. It makes a big difference. No link in your last post.

Looks like a repackaged MSD 6AL. http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=36823 See MSD's instructions for the 6AL (6425 PDF, Page 2) - http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx You probably need the adapter.

Just saw a comment by JohnC on zcar.com about "brinnelling" a bearing race (see Brinnell Hardness test). I think that it means damaging a race's bearing surface by pressing the balls in to it with too much pressure. Did you have any problems with installing the new bearings? Any chance that pressure was applied to the wrong race?