NewZed

Looks like a repackaged MSD 6AL. http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=36823 See MSD's instructions for the 6AL (6425 PDF, Page 2) - http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx You probably need the adapter.

Just saw a comment by JohnC on zcar.com about "brinnelling" a bearing race (see Brinnell Hardness test). I think that it means damaging a race's bearing surface by pressing the balls in to it with too much pressure. Did you have any problems with installing the new bearings? Any chance that pressure was applied to the wrong race?

Jackstands under the links (LCAs) would allow operation like it's on the ground. A little more work to get it up there.

Are you using an adapter? Procomp is MSD, right? This might help you get your point across - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Elements_of_Style

Aftermarket? That's all I know. Good luck with it. I fixed the link in my last post. Meant to connect to atlanticz's page.

There should be a letter - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm Your picture and description don't quite fit with the cam for an N42 head though. I think that the N42s had the spray bar and the N47s went to the internally oiled cam. No spray bar, plus pretty sure that I see an oil hole on a lobe. Maybe there was a transition period for the cam. Probably an A cam, either way, which seems to be one of the more popular stock cams. Anyway, someone will probably need it in a couple of weeks...

Every week or so someone is looking for a cam with rocker arms and towers. You could sell the head for those parts alone probably.

Have you checked all of the components using the 1983 FSM? If the swap was straight across, no modifications, from an 83 to your car, that would be the place to start. It shouldn't need "tuning" if it's stock. The pieces are designed to work together as-is. www.xenons130.com/reference Here's a popular swap link - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

Some time with the Engine Fuel section of the FSM will save you and your mechanic a ton of time and money. Once the basics don't work, there's no better place to go next. An ohm-meter at the ECU connection with the FSM open will answer a lot of questions and probably lead to the source of the problem. You're at the head of the endless expensive path that many have followed. It's not a carbed small block chevy engine. It's easier than it seems, once you start testing things, it all makes sense.

RonK, I replied to your PM. As I said, he might looking at the vacuum advance switch, not the water temp sensor (WTS), since the WTS doesn't actually have wires, just pins. Easy to check at the ECU connector and worth doing. If the wires at the ECU don't give the right resistance for the temperature then you can look for problems between there and the sensor.

Lots of good info but lots of iffy opinions also in that web page.

If there's residual pressure after the clutch pedal is released I think that that means the rod in to the master cylinder is not coming back fully. It's adjusted too tight. It should have a small amount of play to allow the piston in the master cylinder to come all the way back, opening the port to the reservoir, relieving pressure. There's a similar problem occasionally described for brake master cylinders where the brakes slowly stop releasing and eventually lock up as the fluid gets hot. The master cylinder piston blocks the return port in to the reservoir, the fluid heats up and expands, brakes get applied.

Sorry about that, I knew I shouldn't have posted. Good news for you. By the way, since the gland nut fits on the back tube, then the amount your guy cut off would be the difference in length between the original strut insert with spacer and the one that's in there now. Just sayin', math-wise, since the strut tube length has to match the insert length plus spacer (if used), after cutting, to get the gland nut to do its job. I'm done...

Just a neophyte's view - in Post #5, you said the fronts look perfect but Picture 4 shows only about 1.5" of shock travel, with no load on the strut. logr had the key comment I think, about stroke. The whole point of sectioning is to allow the use of a shock absorber (aka insert) in a position where the stroke can be used effectively. You're almost on the bump stops already. And in Post #1 you said that the BZ3012 was a 240Z front. It's a 280Z front for a stock setup, I believe. Maybe just a typo but could be important. Some of the Tokicos appear to be the same shock, just with different numbers, so it may not matter. Good luck with it.

Maybe this clue means something. Is the water temperature sensor still connected correctly? The wires are in the vicinity of the distributor, maybe it got knocked loose. Everything might be fine except it's running super rich because the ECU thinks you're up in Canada in the winter time.

Here's another writeup for the 71C (300ZX) or 71H (240SX) case (bellhousing) swaps. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 And from atlanticz - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html Here's one for the SR gear box, which appears to be the same as the 71C and 71H - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/40643-tutorial-sr-gearbox-onto-l-series-engine/page__p__331608__fromsearch__1#entry331608

Maybe you got your "Distance Pieces" swapped. Check out this picture (for 1976 but probably the same) or the FSM, Rear Axle section, if you have it. The letter on the piece has to match the letter on the housing. By the way, if they were swapped, then the other side might have damaged bearings now. If I understand the drawings right, a short distance piece will allow the full 180 ft-lbs of pressure on the inner race, across the ball bearings to the outer race. Does the side that looks correct turn after tightening?

Measure from inner flange to outer flange on each side. The measurement should be the same. If there's a problem with the one with the shallow nut, it will be wider. Why is your thread titled "Half shaft issues" but you're discussing axles and companion flanges? Did you try the shaft and it's too long?

Browse through the FSM for 83 and you'll see that the turbos use the ECCS and NA uses the older ECU (they call it EFI). www.xenons130.com/reference

You can import your pictures in to this program then export them to whatever size you choose. One option, I'm sure there are others. http://picasa.google.com/

Parts 15, 16 and 17 hold the rack down. There's a procedure for tightening during assembly in the FSM. Tighten it down as far as it will go then back it off, about 15-20 degrees I believe (better check). I got an extra 30 degrees out of mine (36 years of wear) and 15 was fairly dry. I stuffed a finger full of bearing grease in while it was open. It seemed to add some tightness (the extra 30 degrees on the screw, not the grease). On a 280Z you can get the parts out (15, 16, 17) while everything's in the car, on the ground if the car's not too low. Edit - actually, I'm not 100% clear on where exactly #15 is pressing on the rack. But it can be adjusted.

No reason to have bigger fluid transfer holes. It just sloshes back and forth from accelerating and breaking anyway. There's one tiny metal trough that hangs from the adapter plate that actually directs fluid to another spot. Make sure it's not bent when you bolt everything back together. There's not much you can clean either without taking it all apart. You can't reach the synchro bearing surfaces or the ball bearings in the adapter plate. The gears don't need to be clean. The odds of getting grit in to places it will do damage are higher the more you try to get it clean. The bearings are designed to allow debris to clear out as the fluid washes past. Best to just take care putting it together, put new fluid in and drive it. My current transmission is a junk yard unit and it took a few thousand miles to start working correctly after sitting wherever it had been sitting. Pretty sure it had some internal surface rust on the synchro cones or some sort of varnish that took time to wear off. You won't really know what you have until it's in the car and you run it through the gears. I ended up using 25% ATF with 75% Swepco 201 gear lube. If the transmission is in decent shape the MT-90 should work fine, but if not, the Swepco might help.

Don't forget to install the countershaft bearing shim in the front cover. I think that the cover gasket is part of the countershaft bearing clearance (or preload) calculation so good idea to get one and use it I think, than use just RTV. Did you install a new main shaft seal in the cover? Easy to do and worth the insurance. Put some RTV on the clutch pivot ball stud threads. They can leak too. Along with the cover bolt threads.

Pretty sure that is a symptom of the AFM not communicating with the ECU. Either it's not connected electrically or the vane is stuck or there's a very huge vacuum leak. All air that enters the engine has to go through the AFM so that the ECU can direct the injectors to add the appropriate amount of fuel. Just one possibility.