badjuju

^+1 My parents made me have my 81 crushed, cried for a day afterwards, first z car

holy cripes. dayamn, and all that.

^^Will the later style mounts mount up to an older engine?

man oh man, all i can say is "shake and bake!" who wants ta go fayast!

That looks pretty sick... Good quality?

is a couple of jolts from an ign. coil enough to put someone into seizure or something if it jumps their heart? I really like the push to start idea, but I'm not a big fan of lawsuits.

73's gotta lap belt... i'm planning on clicking it in if i get pulled over.

Under the 280zx steering wheel there was a plate installed already that had bolt holes, which also had splines. Hindsight I should have removed that plate, but it came with the vehicle, while msa is telling me that this wheel and this black cyl that they shipped me is enough to run their wheel on any z, 70-83

that was the problem, you just jogged my memory. there are no splines on the adapter. the adapter has a hole for the splines to fit through, but the hole does not have any splines. the reason i ended up not installing is because the only thing holding the wheel in line with the splines would be if i wrenched the nut down like a mofo... not particularly safe. I had a guy at MSA tell me a couple months ago, after I tried installing it, that they have different adapters, and now this other guy is telling me it's one adapter fits all.

I've got the wheel. I've got a black cylinder with an aluminum plate about 1/3 of the way forward from the back. The aluminum plate has three bolt holes around a big hole for the spline to shoot through. I think the black cylinder with the aluminum plate makes up both the bolt on piece and the wheel adapter of which you speak. I tried installing a couple months ago, should have posted sooner. I believe my problem was that the hole for the spline was too big for the nut on the spline to hold it down. I guess I just buy a nice thick washer?

I've got the adapter that came with the steering wheel. A person at MSA told me the adapter will fit any s30s130.

I had this: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SWM/50-3116 on my '81. When I ridded myself of the vehicle (and cried, a lot), I removed the steering wheel to install it in my '73. Problem is, I've had a hell of a time getting it on... in the s130, it bolted on with three bolts. In the s30, it looks like there's no way to mount it down? advice? go!

yup, that's a 280zx electrical issue alright. happened to mine, i ended up buying a new car. take it back to the guy and crap down his throat about this. tell him there's a way to get anything. hell, z specialties or z sport up here in washington will have any part you need, or will be able to get any part you need. it is absolute bullshit when a mechanic tells you a part can't be had. there's always a replacement.

Let's add one more thing we can be pissed about people not searching through... lol but yeah a video section would be great. Maybe limit it to the embedded code you can get from youtube?

tell you what... i'll trade you a 73 s30, about 8% of the way towards your blue car, for your 330, you know, just to take it off your hands.. I love the 350 though, it's taken a while to grow on me, but I really am starting to like them. also, your '71 is my favorite z of any.

l28et is a great swap, my favorite in fact (so far... heh) my 67 chevy pickup does what you're describing with its hazzard lights. turn them on, they'll blink fine, but if you step on the brake they just stay on.

t's why my pride and joy is under the hood... it's hard to scratch my turbo with a door. it takes all of ten minutes to repair whatever paint scratch I get... and believe me, they stick out... all my scratches are orange... lmao

an upgraded alternator should be one of the first things done to a z imo. and a battery, and new big wires. see above for a definition of "the big wires". wires, battery, alt. $250, but it will keep your mind off your electrical system (unless you have a 260... lol)

sounds like something electrical, pull any electrical connections off that you pulled off before, make sure they're not corroded, and put them back on.

yeah i found during my floor panel work that a little surface rust under the deadening works a lot better than dry ice... stuff just peels off...

ground your ic pipe, and shave off the paint right where it mounts in. or... go to http://www.diyautotune.com and buy Matt's: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/open-element-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html Done a lot of business with Matt for a project as low key as mine, great fella, and he's always been there for techie support if I needed him.

that's pretty... look how shiny the hood latch release is... lol

RB20 loses the same .5L the sr20 does... dude, go with an rb25. six cyl, good displacement, it's toybochahjed, if you blow the rear end up, replace it with a heftier one. If you're building a track/show car, price should not determine something like "rb20 or rb25". Build what you want. you're not going to spend a sh*t ton more money to go with a 25 rather than a 20, and you'll get more benefit from it. Also, if you go with an rb20 you have to make sure it's a 24 valve, whereas all the rb25's came with. ooh lah lah, and if you get one made post 93, it'll have that there v-tach (cite: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine )

interesting idea. just for the community's sake, I'd appreciate it if you didn't take a TT off the road for the project, but find what you can.

The mouthing parties for make benefit the RIPS Racing Team?