badjuju

You'll spend $1k on an s30 that will need about $3-4k in crap and a couple months of solid weekends worth of work, and you'll have a reliable, albeit ugly (probably won't find a nice paint job on your $1k z), fast ass car. I'd get an s30. you'll learn a ton, and end up hanging around here a lot more often. if you have half a brain, a spatula, a $30 orbital sander, and $30 to spend on primer, you can have a decent looking car. better yet, if you've got 3/4 of a brain, a welder and some other tools, the means to do a great priming job (not rattle can), and $400, you can get a maaco paint job that looks great. Do the s30. most of the looks you'll get will be from chicas your mom's age, but around here at least, the s30 is seen as japanese muscle, while 240sx's are seen as "hey i saw 2fast2furious too, mang that was some sweet chit"mobiles. edit: just noticed you're in Minnesota. I've heard the salt on the roads there really eats away at cars. Go to a warmer area, or buy one from a warmer area, if you can.

the three things that come to mind first are: your clutch isn't bled all the way out. your hydraulic system has air in it there is some amount of air in your system. I've replaced the same sh*tty schucks slave cyl, not kidding or exaggerating, at all, 6 times in the last year. on the side of the road. i can be in and out of a schucks in 7 minutes, carrying the cyl, some beef jerky, and all the tools required to change the slave cyl. and then i can replace the cyl and bleed the system by myself in another 7 minutes, once i walk back to my car. everytime what you are describing to me has happened, i've easily fixed it with a little more bleeding. describe the process you're using to bleed. do you use a handpump? another person? another person and a handpump? do you close the valve as the handpump continues to pull fluid? do you close the valve as the other person continues to push the pedal (meaning it's not to the floor yet)? Do you open the valve once the pedal is all the way back to the top?

rofle.copter. I was about to just say "whytf is this conversation still going on, seems like lately a lot of ideas new to this forum get turned into political debate and just stray way off topic and blah blah blah" but if this dude is registering to congratulate us for it, bitch on at each other, guys! lmao edit: thank you Darin.

didn't know Vader was into the Chassis side of things... lol and yeah, i knew that wasn't the stock l24. note: thread is in the rb forum

holy shiite that is nice. never seen such a fast car running the stock l24... guys oughtta be very proud.

If you have ANY indication that the great deal guy is not trustworthy, cross him off your list. Unless yeah, you go look at the setup and know what to look for.

looks like a time machine... like a c6 with a stingray front end. it's a little old and a little new.

wtf? seriously? erik. search.

hydrogen, electric, nuclear

enter l28et... lol When I was reading about the l31 build, a page actually used the s2000 motor as an example of why the l6 was such a better motor. same torque, entirely different curves... I personally wouldn't do a 4 cyl swap unless I was swapping it into a go kart. My buddy is swapping a 2.5L Penta motor into his volvo 242, but it's going to be supercharged, turbocharged, and either meth or nitrous injection... but that's different than a 4 cyl swap. he's going to be adding an extra 7-9 pistons, lol The whole site is about doing what you wish with what you wish, but be aware that for the money you will be EXFOLIATING (see st. ives apricot wash commercials) for this project, you could do much better than a hopped up integra motor. IF you decide to do it though, rest assured we'll all be there to offer up ideas and pat ya on the back. also, I'll be reading your project thread avidly.

Yeah, actually, ♥♥♥♥ almost all of the Z owners in western washington, from who I've met. I've met up with a couple from this board, and they were great, but I've NEVER gotten a nod from someone else in a z just because I have a z too (and it's not always looked like this, lmao). Again. The guys I've met up withtalked on the phone withPM'd from hybridz have all been awesome people. Just seems like there are a lot of snobby nosed, I don't know, I guess they remind me of wine connoisseurs, a lot of snobby nosed z connoisseurs, who think that if it ain't stock, it ain't worth a sh*t. Course, those ones quickly disappear in my rear view

funny thing is, it does exactly the opposite of what most ricers think their body kits do...

or at least a supercar in the making?

I've been complemented on my Ferrari before...

May all of your stockings be brimming with jdm mirrors, holsets andor N20 systems, 315s, 20's, dubs, zg flares (like 280ZForce's), blings, Ti lug nuts (hah), new talking ladies, HIDs, 6 pt harnesses, and MSA gift certificates. May your holiday credit card bills run long with names like recaro, sparco, msa, azc, and robello. Merry Christmas guys!

I gotta say man, that's a hilarious story (the first part... not so much about the unemployment sheyit) You'll get her back on track, keep pluggin away. Got an update?

This might sound like a stupid question, but it's very important: do you have an 82 zxt? I ask because there are a lot of ECU swaps out there, and you might have read that this ecu works well in your z31 or something, which would explain any and all problems you have. How did you test the sensor? How do you know it's good? My 81 would run with almost every sensor disconnected. Good ways to check the head gasket: check the rad for bubbles while in runs - break between cyl and coolant check the rad for oil - break between oil and coolant check the oil for water - break between oil and coolant when I said "white smoke" I meant something out of the ordinary. We all know what regular car startup looks like, I'm talking suddenly you see it and ask "what the f*ck is happening" It's just steam from rad fluid burning off after being shoved into a combustion chamber. take off all the sensordevice connectors (ie injectors and whatnot) one at a time, clean the contacts on the device, and on the connector, put the sucker back on. I bet you'll fix your problem.

is it an auto? possibly a drop cable to let the tranny know to downshift? My 81 280zx turbo was an auto, and it would click something at the WOT.

the oxy sensor and valve adjustment aren't your problem, the clicking valves are irritating, but you'd have to adjust them pretty aggressively to have the motor running like you have described it. I'd check electrical connections, your air flow meter, etc. spray some starting fluid around the intake manifold, if the idle goes up, you're hitting a vaccuum leak. Likewise, if you spray wd-40 the same way, and the idle goes down, you're hitting a vaccuum leak. try moving the flap on the air flow meter by hand while it's running, see what sort of changes it makes. do some experimenting. Check fuel pressure check spark plugs check your timing what color smoke are you getting? black - not so bad blue - sorta bad white - bad eidt: and welcome to the community. I'm impressed, your first post and doesn't obviously break any forum rules. Don't think that's happened in a while.

yes

a friend of a friend works on volvos and deloreans a lot... he was testing out a new suspension piece in the delorean and took my friend for a ride. i'm jealous, he actually got to do 88 mph in a delorean.

The guy I bought my 280zx from, guy named Brad, (lived in oregon) who had an s130 with a jag v12... sounded impressed with it, too.

It's got such a badass motor, and it really was (imo, der) one of the nicest sports cars of the 80s, the only ones I like from that era are datsun and porsche (delorean?), I bought mine because of how tremendously badass they look, and it had a turbo and t tops to start with. I fell in love all over again with the s30, though, so now I'm banging my first car's older sister, I'm sure she's upset about it.

ihatejoe, post the guy's number!

1 81 zxt, scrapped *tear rolls down face* forced to by parents.