badjuju

I just fired up my l28et in my 73 for the first time about an hour ago and it's a fuc kin rush. I'd go with that personally, unless you want a total project car, then go rb all the way. I like the idea of a 240 with an l28, not sure why.

♥♥♥♥ i need a job at a nissan dealership. If they're sealed, you're probably fine. if not, you might be best off going with a flat piece of lexan or something, cheap, easy to find, and lots of places do custom work with it. but if they appear to be sealed, i'd think your headlight covers would be enough... just put them on and start dumping buckets of water on them, see how they hold up under worst case scenario.

yeah we don't have argon here on the west coast, give the welder a break...

my 280 is an 81, and I'm parting the whole sucker out, it's missing the motor, aside from that, it's all up for grabs. 2 seater, with t tops.

So i got it to start, but the sucker stays at 15* btdc no matter what (it's actually way more advanced than that, but it says it's locked at 15). I come to find out that it's reading the rpm as ~260 at idle. This can't be true because the engine won't idle that low, and I know it's more like 600-700. I think it's stuck in cranking mode and is locking the advance at 15, since it's reading the rpm to be under 300. I sanded down my magnets on the pully a little, with no luck. I'm thinking maybe it's just not reading one for some reason? or maybe not reading two... Any suggestions?

K, I soldered up x12 to - of led17, and it's sparking fine. now to get the sucker to start.

I'm using a cherry hall effect sensor and magnets mounted on my crank pulley for my rpm triggering. It's sensing fine. I'm using my ms box's fidle circuit to trigger my 6al box. However, it's not sparking. I have my spark inverted, I have set my fidle to spark output a, and my dwell is set to 50% fixed duty. To rule the box out, I grounded my white wire (the one which is supposed to run to ms's trigger wire) and it sparked just fine. Can someone please point me in the right direction? I can supply more info if you have questions.

Isn't it kinda risky going with a seat you don't know to be safe?

turning my dizzy doesn't do anything, Zeiss, it's an l28et out of an 81, which had an optical CAS, mounted on the crank. First time I tried to adjust my timing I thought I was stupid, motor wouldn't change or hiccup no matter if i went all the way CW or all the way CCW. I wouldn't recommend going this route if you've already got a cas dizzy, it was actually a major pain in the ass. However, now that I have my own CAS set up, I could go to coil on cyl if i wanted, pretty easily.

I've seen a couple camaros running the remote turbo setup, and it's really a great sight, and they haul ass, but keep in mind, lag time is MUCH less of an issue when you have a 5.7+ liter running 9:1 rather than 2.8 liter running ~7.5:1.

i'm actually swapping my msns-e'd l28et with 287k miles on it into my 240z this coming week, no modification beyond a new rear main seal. It pulls like a mofo in my 280, and that's with an auto tranny. I'm planning on running about 12psi once my IC is in. go for it, especially if you're rebuilding.

damnit, second to say welcome.

I'll be the first to say welcome, and You're going to want to search a sh*t ton before asking a lot of questions. I know that http://www.ls1tech.com is the place to go for info on everything sbc.

I've been told by Oliver at Z specialties that the rear main is easily swappable from the outside once the tranny is removed, and that the bottom end of my motor having 290k miles is a non issue. The head was rebuilt 15k or so ago, so I'm now thinking i'm just gonna plop my 5speed onto the l28et, throw it into my s30 and roll. Plop, Throw, and roll.

Dude it's an awesome idea, go for it. ♥♥♥♥ the people who are too closed minded to let you do what you want. I saw a hayabusa powered smart car beat out a ferrari in a drag race. If it sounds cool to you, do it. it sure as sh*t sounds cool to me.

Hey all, after finding my 280zxt (msns-e) was leaking from the main seal about three months ago, I parked it and bought a 73 240. Last night I spun a bearing. Yay. Anyhow, my plan is this: Buy an l28 bottom end Swap my head, mani's, turbo, and ms setup into my 240 Drive it like hell. just wanted to let everyone know that i'll probably be getting back into the scene.

"one of the tank vents"?

Hey everyone, I just ripped my old intake and my old holley 390 off my 240, and slapped on a brand new 390, Arizona Z Car Intake, along with ripping off my exhaust mani and installing a used (what i believe to be an msa) header. I got the header for $60 from craigslist, and on my way out the kid hands me a muffler that looks like it's brand new. Tells me that when he messed up his 72, he parted almost everything out, but swapped his old exhaust into his new 240. This header came on the new 240, with this muffler bolted right onto the header. I said "why wasn't there a full exhaust setup?" to which he replied, "the previous owner of this car did the sound bytes for the "240zx" in Forza Motorsports"! SUH-WEET! He also said his buddy gave him nissanpacific.com to run. Now, does anyone know that this stuff is not true? I haven't compared my sound to any of the sounds in the game, but it does sound pretty sick (sick is good, for all you who bought your 240zs from a dealership... haha just kidding). Also, Forza DOES have a 240zx in it, I have wondered since I first played the game; was there ever a 240zx? Anyhow, the car started right up after installing all my new toys, though it idled around 4k. Cranked the advance back down to 6 btdc, and it came down to about 1500. The idle adjustment screw is totally off the throttle and it's still up there. I cover the carb while it's running, it still runs, just drops down to 600ish and stays running. I spray carb cleaner all over the intake points, anywhere there might be a manifold leak, nothing. doesn't even make the engine shudder. I'm thinking, wtf, mate? Oh well, I tuned it around to run as well as possible, so now I can drive it, though I still need to adjust the choke, as it pulls it up to 2500, and stays there too long imo. After about a half hour of driving it will drop the idle back down to 1500, and I think it should turn off ~5 minutes after it's started. So, I still get to tune around with it. Now, I call Arizona Z, and Dave tells me that often times the brake booster on a car this old will create a vaccuum leak. So, I'm gonna start today off by vice gripping the booster's vaccum line while it's running, and hopefully that'll fix my problem. Anyhow, just wanted to tell everyone that the setup just up and worked, Dave helped me out on the fly when I called him up, and I'm very happy with the way my car runs with its new setup. I'll further post when I take some pics of the engine bay and stuff, I powdercoated the Intake in my buddy's garage, it's got a new carb, and the header is painted black.

my buddy's got a turbo volvo sedan thats running like 14 psi right now, hauls ass, just got his diff welded. the boost hitting isn't a problem at all, but then the boost comes in pretty quickly compared to my 280, not as much of a jolt at all. I say go for it, you'll probably be fine

Mine is approx. half as clean as these, I haven't had a chance to clean the interior out, but it's totally stock, and almost perfect. the interior alone was worth my buying price. I'll post some pics when I get home.

hmm, I had my gauge putting out decivolts, then my LC1 sending 0-2 volts for 0:1-20:1 or something so voltage was linear, then the volt meter would just read out as 10*whatever the LC-1 sent out. One day, my fpr dropped to about 9. and stayed there. then it went to like 3. now it just wobbles all over the place but is hardly ever accurate. However, during this if I plug my lappie into MS, it'll show the right value. They told me one of my outputs was fried and to send it in. Not sure if this helps, hope so.

[homervoice] mmmm, salt flats [/homervoice]

update on this, Canadianz?

I looked at doing this in my 280zx, if i'd have gone through with this, i'd have mounted a trackball in the center console, you don't need to move it like you do a mouse. just an idea. also, http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?productID=12337&sk=MC511534&gclid=CPPKr52x-YkCFQUkggod9Qq5Ww bluetooth cloth keyboard, played with one of these at compusa, they seem to be the sh*t.

So. 73, 99k miles, looks like the factory points were still on it, they were about fried. There is a Holley 600 or 650 on it, which is jetted for something other than this car. something with a bigger engine. As of thursday, the car fell on its face before 2000 rpm, but between 2-7k it would pull like a demon. much faster than my 81 turbo. Friday I'm looking for something to do with my car until my friend helps me jet the carb down. I decide to replace the points. I replace the points. Set the gap to .5mm at the high point on the dizzy cam, she starts up. I go to rev, it shoots a gas plume up out of my carb. It then shoots a flaming gas plume up out of my carb. 4 feet above the holley or so. I look at my timing, it's fully advanced. I turn it down. It doesn't start. I advance it again, it starts, then I turn it ever so slightly down, and it dies. I've checked and rechecked my point gap, wtf is going on? I thought maybe the vacuum advance wasn't working, so they turned the regular advance all the way up, and the points being messed up kept it from advancing too far? Gah i'm confused. I turn it advanced again, it starts, I unplug the vacuum advance, the car dies. The timing chain is in sync with the dizzy's rotor, it turns in either direction with a rotation of the crank, no slop. Also, how well do the $20 dwell meters work? is it just a very low end oscilliscope? Any Ideas?