1 fast z

NO, prob, guess I should of answered the direct question in the begining, but then we would not have got a discussion out of it!

Yes you can run the stock retainers, as long as the spring ID and OD of both of them fits the retainer, and no bind occures during lift. The only benifit to the aftermarket retainers is that they are deeper, which allow for the taller pad support. The keepers should be identical, unless you changed to a different degree, but I dought it.

I use a Matsuura CNC Mill to set my heights.

I just wanna see the graph, for pure interest. I am MAINLY concerned with HOW much drive train loss there actually is in a TKO, down to a R200 diff, and then out to the wheels. I just find it interesting that the dyno guy knows exactly how much drivetrain loss there is. I have no need to be a "top dog" Or anything like that. I build my cars to the best I can, thats it. I am ALWAYS wanting to learn more, thats why I asked. If you took it another way, sorry for that. Age has nothing to do with it, what so ever. I have ZERO experience with a MAF, everythign I play with is MAP, thats why I asked, instead of told. I wish we could all find out exaclty how much drivetrain loss there actually is, but with so much discrepency in dynos, is it possible? I wonder if we took a known motor, put it on a dyno, measured, then installed a trans to it, then measured it, that would tell us how much on the trans. Then do the same thing with a differential. Then we could get a good baseline for what these drivetrains actually have. 658/537=22.5% increase. I know that like BIG heavy gear boxes, and big diffs draw about 20%, so I was just wondering if the TKO has alot more drag? I have always heard people say about 15% drivetrain loss. I am here to learn Jeff, please stop taking things the wrong way.

An S13/14 Trans sensor is no where even close to the twin cam VG sensors.

Was his head indeed done the correct way by setting each valve within a couple thousands to the deck of the head??? Most and I mean 90% of shops wont do it the correct way.

Post here, you are posting in the ENGINE forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=61

How do you know if the valves are all the same depth, in relation to the pistons? Just because you set equal lift, you also need to check the initial distance from piston to valve on each cylinder. Have you verrified CC's on each intake runner, as well as port volume? This needs to come into play also, if trying to equalize out a Valve system. So to acheive what you are describing, all of these factors need to come into play.

Yes the engines are different. The dizzys are different, the heads are different, etc. As far as bolting up, to a RWD chassis, Im not realy sure.

I think that is the first Z I have seen with ZG's and the MSA body kit.

I See you offer a 60-2 wheel. Since EDIS is more popular now, do you offer a 36-1 wheel?

Too many stickys already, pretty soon we will have to go immidiatly to page two to see the new post, ha. As for the FAN affecting the MAF readings? What about a 80 MPH wind, does that effect the reading, or only a fan?? Hmmmmmmmmmm. Max torque is produced at 13.2 AFR on a internal combustion engine although every engine is a little different. My NA motor runs at 13.1-13.3 at WOT with 36 degrees full timing for max power. 658HP??? Any actuall documentation of this? Pure speculation on a guess of what drivetrain loss there actually is, or is this a verified number on a engine dyno, or???? We tuned the Twin Cam car on a dyno jet dyno, made great power, and was perfect right out of the box, when driving on the street. I data logged on the dyno, and on the street, and the AFR's were EXACT, I was impressed. Data logging is your best friend. Dont have someone tune, that doesnt know what they are doing. Get it close by easing into the throttle, then start datalogging. We usually get a car 98% tuned within an hour or so, when street tuning. I think People get too hung up on tuning on the dyno. Tuning for WOT is one thing but for anything less than WOT, doing on the street is SOOOO easy. I was talking to another member of the board today at my shop, and we were discussing how people dont know how to actually tune their EMS, and that causes MOST of peoples problems.

Will do, I actually Balence the cranks first, then throw on the flywheel, and balence that. Then bolt on the harmonic, and balence that with trigger wheel attached, then bolt on the pressure plate and balence that, so everything is balenced as an assembly, but each peice added to the next to ensure everything is balenced. Here you can see One of the harmonics with a Trigger wheel mounted on a Alluminum hub, which is then bolted to the balencer. About half the balence being off was because of the trigger wheel missing tooth, but I checked it without the trigger wheel and alluminum hub prior, and it was off the same direction. Keep in mind It was balenced really close, I just wanted it a tad closer. The only complaint I would have about the balencer, is that the hub bore, the major ID, where the step is so it slides on the crank easily, before it gets to the pressed ID, was bored too deep, and sorta takes alot away from the actuall press fit area itself. I hope that makes sense. Mind you I am not saying it is a bad product and I run BHJ dampners on all of MY L series stuff, which they all get ran really hard, and never had a harmonic problem what so ever. I would recomend their products over any other balence company.

I have had to do some fine balence work on both the single and double grove BHJ units I have bought. They were not off a mile, but they were off enough for me to go back and drill some holes where they were heavy.

Yes there has been a number of post about those rods. The big end is too narrow to use.

You better setup an LLC if selling brake components. If one were to ever fail, and someone have a fatal accident, you would loose everything you have, as well as garnish your wages for the rest of your life. Very slim possiblity, but it is possible. As for the DOHC setup, There is SO much that goes into a head, it would not be a money maker unless hundreds of thousands of dollars were to be made.

There really is NO grinding needed on the short side radius, just some very crafty polishing a bit of re-shaping. I am betting you KILLED flow by messing with that short side radius, especially if you broke though. I have ported pretty extensivly, and broke through on some spots, but always up in the roof, or the sides of P79 heads.

Well, to sort of give a heads up on whats happining now. I got the Block sleaved, Re-Oring, and the lower end re-assembled. I had replaced 6 valves in the head, and re-did another valve job. I have the head bolted back down on the block now. I found that the lower single row timing chain was stretched when I tore it apart. I have since made a custom lower timing chain, and gears, etc. Should me much more bullet proff now. I have also changed how the head gets it oiling a bit also, just to make maintenence a bit easier. Many of you guys witnessed me at the last MSA show, trying to get the one freaking oil line back on the head, so now I wont have that problem when guys beg me to take the valve cover off at a show! I have since welded 4130 stubs to the cast iron camshafts, so now the side load is all taken up by actually steel now, instead of cast iron. This will double the camshaft strength. Now the steel, welded to the cast iron will be the driver. Should have the engine back in the car here in the next couple weeks, I hope. I am sorta going through some legal crap right now, and the state might take my drivers license away for a year, so Not sure when I can drive it again though! I might have to have someone else drive it to and from the dyno/track! Ill post some pics shortly, of the new timing setup.

Did I say he wasnt aware that ET and RT are two independent factors? I am mearly pointing out the fact they are not, for OTHERS, not just WARREN.

Reaction time has NOTHING to do with ET.

The heads that will bolt onto a L series block, that are accessible, include the following, starting with the earliest to the latest: E30= This head came on Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) cars only. It was available on the 2.0 L series engine. This head has 37cc chambers, and SMALL intake ports. The valves are also small in diameter. Bronze seats as well. This head would be a screaming High Compression head if someone would take the time and put the bigger valves and do a decent port job on it as well. This head also does have a high quench design as well. E31= This head is available on all 240z's up to about the month of 10/70. There were about 10,000 of these heads made. This head has 42cc chambers and is also a high quench design as well, much like the E30, except this head has the 35mm Intake Ports and the larger valves. E31's had bronze seats as well. E88= There are actually 3 variations of the E88. The first variation is of which it is the EXACT same head as the E31, except it has the E88 casting code. The second is which it has the large open chamber to where it is a 47 cc chamber now, and not the 42. The third is where it has the open 47cc chambers and also has the large Ex valve inserted, the 260z's got these, and to where the bore had to be notched to accept the larger valve. N42= This head came on all 75-76 and EARLY 77 cars. It has the 47cc chamber, and this head is a fully open head. This head was used on a fully dished piston, to where no quench was used. It has the largest of the valves much like all 280's did. 44mm intake and 38mm ex. This is the last of the L heads that came with bronze seats. This head has Square ex ports, and has the Injector notches as well. N47= This head came on all mid 77 through the 1980 z cars. It has the same exact characteristics as the N42 except that it has the cast in ex liners. These liners were cast in place, for the reason that when the motor is running, these liners get so hot that they glow red hot, and with that you get the advantages of them burning off the hydrocarbons that are left over in the exhaust charge. This is the first head to have hardened seats put in all of the valves. P79= This head is a Good head. This head came on all 81-83 NA cars. This head has the Ex liners cast in as well, but the chamber is a HIGH quench design. The chambers are 53cc's. This head when used with a Flat top block will yield a HIGH quench design, and will reduce detonation. P90= This head is also a good head, as it has the same exact characteristics as the P79, except that it has the non-linered square port ex ports. This head is wildly used for NA setups also, to where most shave .08" off of the deck, and then insert the 75-80 valves to take up the valve lash, and then put cam tower shims to make up the timing chain slack. P90A= There are actually two variations of the P90A. One is the solid lifter style to where it is exactly like the P90. The second is also exactly like the P90, except it has Hydraulic lifters.

Before you hit the DYNO, I would run 36 degrees timing full at 2000 RPM and about a 12.7-13.1 AFR for a NA car with what I am suspecting is about 10-1 Compression Ratio? That will get you close to max power, than you can add or subtract from there to see if anything helps. Just do lots of datalogs prior to make sure it is right where you want it. My last dyno session lasted 20 minutes, just because I had it very close, it just took some slight tweaking.

Yea 60MPH burnouts in a FWD car is ALOT different than a RWD. LIFT AND SSSSSSPPPPPPPPPPIIIIIIIIINNNNNNNNNNNN.

I would guess any machine shop would not charge more than 25.00 to make the tool.

The drive from the block side, UP. You need a speacial driver. Take a peice of steel to the lathe, turn down one end to .312" for about 1.5" then take and turn down another portion behind that .312" step to .470" for clearence on the guide bore in the head. VERY IMPORTANT, make sure there is ZERO radius between the .312" Diameter to the .470", as if there is a radius you WILL crack the guides.