1 fast z

The seats must be ground after any new guides are installed, its a MUST.

My head is shaved .110" plus I have a 3.1 liter with flat top pistons, compression is 12-1 and I run on 91 octane, 36 degrees full timing. My elavation is about 1000 feet, but have run at sea level with no problems.

Smaller bore?

Itm does not carry anything over .040 for flat tops. Flat tops are now all sold out of the country in .040". Atleast this is what my supplier is telling me.

YOu definitly have some sort of valve problem. When building motors, be sure to check and triple check any and EVERY clearnce.

Will they work, yes. Do they produce any more HP, many say not. They say you dont see any HP loss up to .040" of ring gap.

Needs, to be tapped 1/4" NPT, which you will NOT find at a traditional harware store. Needs to be tapped perpendicular to the rail itself, as well as drilled perp. also. You need to also, know how far to tap the tap, as it is a taper seal, on the threads. Yes all. is going to be the easiest to work with, as well as fairly cheap. Look on ebay for stock, or just a metal store.

No Z's! Also, no body has any R compound tires, R compound doubles the amount of fun you can have on the curves!

For anyone that participated in the West Coast Nationals, driving event this year, the photos are up. Located here: http://zcarparts.com/08wcn/driving70-78L/index.htm http://zcarparts.com/08wcn/driving79-08L/index.htm Heres the shots that came accross of my car, maybe once I get the engine back in, I can finish up the suspension!

This post was mainly do just give the heads up to others, not to try and put out my side of the story. I have sent many PM's with no answer for weeks. I agree, just do buisness with the guys that have hundreds of post.

Generally I do use my gut feeling, which is what I did here, hopefully he is out of town, but doughtfull. MANY boards have a number next to there name much like ebay does. That way you know how many transactions they have gone through, positive, or negative.

It always seems to be a hassle when buying things from the classifieds. I have had "some" good experiences, but for the most part it is not worth it, if they are out of state. I, in the past got screwed over by a guy saying he had a stroker crank, msd box, arp head bolts, all for 350.00 and 50.00 shipping. Well, I stupidly after talking with him over many emails, sent him paypal. Then BAM, nothing, never a contact or anything. This was a few years ago. Well now recently, I purchased a set of RB26 cams, from a guy named RODGER280ZX, or something to that user name. I sent him a check, and I got a phone number and address from him, for my security. Well, the cams never came, after three weeks, so I called him up. He says he shipped them three weeks ago, I then asked where he mailed them. I told him to mail them to my shop, which is where ALL of my packages get shipped. He decided he could take it upon himself to just ship it to the address on my check, rather than the address I TOLD , and INSTRUCTED him to send the cams. So then I ask him for a tracking number, he clearly states, he did not get one, even though he sent it through USPS, and they are what, 50 cents!!!! Everytime I sell or ship something, I ALWAYS get a tracking number. So then, I check at the address he so called mailed the cams, and nothing there. I have renters (cousins) living in that house where my checks used to be addressed to, and they say that have seen nothing. I then call the local post office and they no nothing. Now this rodger wont return emails or calls, for the matter. I am just fed up with making transactions online, when they are not done through ebay. I have bought over 500 items on ebay, and never had one go bad, but when you buy on here, or zcar.com, seems like someone, is always getting screwed. I guess this is just a warning to others, to be carefull when purchasing online. I will now go through my bank, to see what they can do to get my money back.

I tell you what, here in AZ, there are freaking 240sx's EVERYWHERE, and they ALL of Sr's in them. YAWWWWWWWWNNNNNNNNN. I hate being like everyone else, There are a few with RB20's, but VERY few with 26's. I would spend 3500 dollars for a 26 motor set, and be unique, AND will always have TONS more power pottential than the SR. I would go 2J, way before an SR. But then again, if I were to go Yota, I would go 1U, or if nissan, VK56. The sr is STILL a 2.0 liter, and when I have driven the SR's that I had driven in the past, under 15lbs, they are TERRIBLY slow, and to get up an moving, you have to work them so hard. Remember guys, its not about the max power you put out, or torque, its the area under the curves, thats what makes a car fast.

You are gonna want NO gap, or atleast plan for not gap, or you will never get your idle down low enough. The best way is to have no gap, and do all of your idle controll through a bypass valve. I have build a few ITB setups for L28's, and it is always a pain, getting everything syncronized and timed correctly. What is the ID of that machined hole where the Butterfly has to fit? I ask this, because you can rob butterflys from other throttle bodys, with the same id, and it already has the cam, built on the butterfly, and the two holes, and you would be ready to go. How do I know this? Because I came accross the same dilema a few years ago, when designing ITB setups for these motors.

You do know, that butterflys are NOT round correct? You can make them on a 4 jaw, or a buck chuck, but will require a few setups, to make them in a lathe. They would be easier to be made on a mill, yes it can be done on a manual mill, with rotary tables, but I would do it on a CNC.

If I see an SR powered Z at a show or something, I just walk on by, nothing speacial, four banger where a 6 used to be, just not for me. They will never make the power OR torque an RB would.

P79, VS P90 stock, do flow the same, BUT you can work a P90 more extensivly, as the P79 ports are MUCH thinner, due to the semi vortex intake runner design. NO you cannot just throw Turbo rings on a Dished NA piston.

Ok, here is the REAL deal on the differences. NO Z car piston ever in the life of z cars has ever been forged from the factory. ALL Z car pistons 75-80 has a 10cc dish, with 2mm top comp ring, and 2mm second comp ring. ALL 81-83 Dished (turbo) pistons are exactly the same, EXCEPT they have a 1.5mm top compression ring.

My car has 620 RWHP, and 500 FT LBS of torque, and I run 315/35/17 R1 BFG's, basicly a groved slick, and it breaks them loose in first and second just rolling on to it, on a 70 degree day! But it is a heck of alot better than the 245 Nittos 555R that I used to run.

Toque distinquishes cylinder pressure. Our torque is not near as high as other builds have been , etc. The crack, may have been a flaw in the casting, or a stress line from something else. The reason I did NOT go with another block, is that the other five cylinders have been proven to work, so may as well fix the weakest link, and proceed on. It cracked on the pressure side, right where it is not siameesed with the number three cylinder. I have had this problem for a few thousand miles, and that is why I kept getting a miss on number two cylinder for months. "high boost" I have barely tapped 18 PSI, thats farly low boost, yet it still yeilds high HP numbers at this low boost. I make more HP at that boost level, than the other "big build" that lives in california does at a higher boost! The material that sleeves are made out of now a days are alot better, higher nickel content than castings used to be in the old days.

No, way am I spending thousands of dollars on more rods and pistons! Especially for the 2% or less gain!

WAY too small of a turbo to make big power on an L.

All engines create different harmonics, based on impulses, weights, speeds, etc. To say that a crank will break at or above 8500 is sorta miss-leading. Maybe that one persons build hit a bad harmonic at 8500, but the next guys build wont hit that terrible harmonic untill 9800. I have already magnifluxed the crank, and found no problems so far.

WOW.

Wow that is REAL conservative. You will have overheating problems with timing pulled back that far also.