1 fast z

In my silver car, they ask if it is a V8, by the rumble (BIG cammed 3.1 liter). Other than that, I usually dont get much talk, unless I am in my Fairlady, then it gets some attention.

Yea I could be hush hush about the problems that I come across, but why? Main reason the pin-hole was there, is because people dont like to run freakin antifreeze, and it just KILLS alluminum. I really wish I would of looked through dozens of heads, till I found a set of heads that was flawless, so I would not have the problems to deal with later. I have thought about building a smaller engine, but it will never make the power or torque that this engine makes. This motor pulls to 8500 as it is, and Possibly has more in it (although have not pushed it more than that). I have had this problem in number two cylinder for about 4 months now, even before I took it on a 1000+ mile trip to california, plus racing. So in a way I am glad I found the problem.

Got the block dissasembled today in-between running the gundrilling machines here at the shop. Should have it on the mill in a couple hours, and start boring out the original bore, for a sleeve.

On a technical note, More bad news. I dissasembled the block, to make sure no broken rings, or pistons etc. All of that turned out good, but I was still trying to destinguish how I was loosing water, as the head was sealed up perfectly. I was magnifluxing the block, and found a crack in number two cylinder wall, sonic tester reveals about .135" thickness on that side of the bore, so I am almost thinking water got through somwhere else, and hydrolocked that cylinder. So, I also found a pin-hole in the number two intake port. So looks like I will be sleaving the block to get her back in working order. Should be another three weeks or so, before she gets back on the dyno. I am also converting to a double row, lower timing system, as the single row was stretched. Ill post pics of how I sleeve the block.

You should run the SX countershaft bearing, it makes the trans much stronger. Yea the Z32 NA and TURBO trans are the same. I use an NA trans in my Twin Turbo Car.

Run a Z32 NA trans. Also, why not the SX setup, much stronger than an L series setup.

What do you use for a filter/vent system in that booth? With no air flow you get a deep haze on the clear, as the overspray just kinda settles on the car.

I build my own, basicly a tapered sleeve, that tapers to the bore diameter, and is large enough at the opening, to compress the rings, this is the only method to ensure there will not be any broken or chipped rings, when installing. I have a pretty big selection now for all of the different engines I have built. If you ever look at top engine/race builders, this is what they use.

The bore spacing on the center two cylinders is WAY larger than between 1-2 2-3 4-5 5-6. So to maintain the correct bolt patterns, water passages, etc. This was the only way to go.

In my early days, that is what I used to do, you should be fine.

I build my own guide tools, on a lathe. You cannot use a flat punch or something, if that is what you are asking. It has to have a pilot, that barely slips in the guide (basicly the size of the valve.) Then you have to have an OD that is about .005" smaller than the od of the guide. Then you cannot have any radius on the corner of the smaller to larger diameter portion of the guide tool.

Ex, guides I take flush, Intake guides I leave stock length, as they dont hurt any flow, and the larger valve benifits from the extra support. I just drive the intake guides out, then drive them back in when finished.

All porting needs to be done after seats are installed.

No need to retype my argument, as always, experience is needed before you can say "PERIOD" .

I know you have seen my build up thread in the L6 section (which I have info to add on that as well). I enjoyed, and loved the feedback, positive and negative that I had recived.

Dont you just love it when these un-experienced guys say "PERIOD". And they are totally wrong! Dont act so confident, if you are not speaking from experience, that is how internet myths get started. To answer, any 130mm rod is 9mm.

My family has been into hot rods for generations. Z cars, were basicy my discovery, but all of my insperation has been from my Dad and Grandfather. Here is a Cadilac V-16 powered 23 dodge roadster on a 32 ford frame that my Grandfather has had since 1955. Here he is with the car about three years ago, about 6 months before he died. Here is me filling up the car in California. Here is some pictures of our 1934 ford roadster, with a J series Duesenburg engine in it, which dates 1929. For those that don't know what a duesy is, its a double over head cam, 4 valve per cylinder, (oh but thats new technology right??) Straight eight engine. This car shown was built by two brothers in the Chicago area, after they got out of ww2, Hal and Bill Hulrich. They started to build it in 1946, and finished in 1947. They bought this engine in a wrecked 29 J series duesy, from a car lot in 46. They purchased the 1934 roadster for ten dollars. They shortened the body in the deck lid area, behind the seat by ten inches. they lengthened the frame by ten inches also to accommodate the long straight eight engine. This car won the first nationally sanctioned drag race in 1947 which was held by the SCCA (NHRA hates this point, as they were NOT the first to have the first nationally sanctioned drag race, they were 6 months later). It was a half mile drag strip, in Indiana. This car was partially built in Andy Granatelli's shop with some of his speed equipment, as well as some engine work, in 1947. I will post up vintage 1940's photos soon, they are at the shop, and not accessible right now. My father, grandfather and I, as well as some friends put this car back together EXACTLY like the two brothers had built it in the forty's, in the early 1990's. We built this engine with 10.5 to one forged pistons, cams ground by crane, sbc TI valves, carillo rods, etc. Engine is 458 CI, with about 500 HP, and 525 FT LBS of Torque Here are some shots with Andy Granatelli with the car. Here is my dad fillin her up We also play with Hemi Powered Mopars. Here is one of our 1971 Hemi Cuda Hard top, factory Bill board car. Here are some shots of one of our 1970 Hemi Cuda Converts. Here is me driving the car over hoover dam. Here are some shots of our 1970 Hemi Challanger Convertable. Here are some pics of my first car, and the car I drove every day to collage and high school. 1936 Buick Century, sporting the original HIGHLY modified Buick Straight eight engine. One of our 1968 Factory Hemi Super stock Barracudas Linda Vaugn Posing next to our 1971 Hemi Cuda Convertable. Anyways, just thought I would share some of our collection, outside of Z cars. There is more, but Im tired, HA.

Taking the roof around the ex guide yeilds about 4-7% increase in ex flow. You need to raise the intake ports even more, you will see 10+% by doing so. Then there is all the other little tricks I cant tell SOME pics on what I am talking about, this is an old P90 I did.

I have owned and driven small ex housing Z cars, and I gotta say, if you have the displacement, say 3.0 and larger, I would go with the largest turbos possible. That instant response is nice, sorta like an NA HIGH compression car, but it does NOT compare to the extra 200-300 HP you would get out of a large turbo. I autocrossed my tt car, and ridden in Cliftons and ARZ's Turbo cars, which are all 3.0 liters, and they have large turbos, and it works great. They usually turn out some of the fastest street car times there are, and even beat most of the race cars . So basicly, I dont think I would ever have a Z car without a fairly large turbo. Instant response is nice, but when you hit 3500 in fourth gear or fith gear, and the 315 wide slicks go all over the place from that much HP, there is no better feeling!

Sounds about right for that turbo and boost level. Nice numbers. Now get to 30 PSI, and then you will see where the real numbers begin .

Yea Barman, is a nice guy Great Car, HE derserves it!

I am not so much complaining, but commenting, on it, so dont think I am bitter or anything. I think the magazine is one of the best out there. I understand how the thread could of gotten confusing.

I guess Ill bite and show some of my Z's. The twin cam car: Here is my Semi Daily Driver 1971. My NA car.

I was voted into the last print out of the NSM. I was a little dissapointed in the wording. The uniqueness (sp?) of my car is basicly in the cylinder head, thats it, nothing else, but there was not ONE mention of the head. I sent a couple emails to sarah, asking her, that if there was any information needed, or pictures, etc. to let me know, but was not needed. I am not complaining, as now things are different, because you guys can choose your own words, 20 or less anyways. Like stated, 20 words is nothing to describe a car.

Only thing I would of done differently is, use better than a mig welder. I used 312-16 Stainless rod, which has a VERY high yeild strength.