1 fast z

They probably show up on ebay every week or so.

If you take a screwdriver and put it in the spark plug wire, and hold it about .5" away from a grounded surface does it spark? Your wires might be too insulatated, to where your light wont pick up the inductive signal.

Here is an OS head setup.

Is up to you, its your design and your product. If people come to you wanting them, and you wanna make a couple bux on a transaction, Im game. I dont wanna just take your setup and make it and market it ya know, thats not what I am about. If you get your flange customers calling you wanting a rail, then Yea, Ill make them for ya.

You and I talked about it a few months ago Justin, but never heard any more.

There are a few cross flow heads, os, LY, etc.

For an 89mm bore, the F54 is TONS weaker than the 42. I can take a video of me sonic testing each block, if ya want???

False. Ok, the N42's are a full siamesed block. The F54 has CUT OUTS in that siamesed section, to allow water to flow through, for better cooling, but the 54 block is weaker. If you have an N42, use that. BTW even the NA 81-83's had F54 blocks, not just turbos.

Well, A speacial jig needs to be made, to hold the big end of the rod, because these bushigns have to be exactly perpendicular to the rod, so you dont get piston rock/slap. No, Full floating pin, is the best way to build a motor. Some have just honed the existing forged steel, and ran the hard pin on steel. Not me, while some have had success, It is not a good idea. If your up to it, you can ship me your rods, and I can bush them for you, and fit them to your pin. PM me if your interested.

Figured I would post my Heep in here too.

First of all for strength, the F54 is the weakest 280z(x) block ever built. Second, ALL 280's were FI, from 75-83 so all 280 blocks were "designed" for FI, whatever that means.

Oh man, ok, PLEASE read and research before you go much farther.

Just the block? Why F54?

Custom bushings will need to be made. What rods are you using? When you say long rod, I am thinking LD rods? If so, they already have a removable bushing but they are HUGE. I have bored the rods in both of my big motors to accept a full floating pin.

As being in the machine shop buisness, I understand how things can be slow, but not one year slow. My flanges have changes some, since my last pictures. I am currently sold out, seems hard to keep them on the shelf, but we will be making more the next time someone wants some. What you should of done, was send a print, or somesort of part file to the machine shop, and ask them to quote price and delivery. Then, you can hold them to whatever time they quoted. If they would of told you a year, I am sure you would of looked somewhere else. On parts that were as simple as a flange, I would figure 1-2 week tops.

Good Luck.................................................................................

What went wrong with the L series? But for power, yea you made the better decision on the bmw.

http://www.clutchnet.com

Yea, usually just burn them out with a torch.

13" core in height seems PRETTY small also. Sure alot of radiators will fit, but you want the biggest one you can fit for HIGH hp cars.

HAHA, well my comment only applied to the Nissan L 6 section .

Yes a stock regulator will regulate enough, as will the return lines.

You do not need the relay board as it just takes more space, and added cost. You only need one relay, and just use one of those 1" cube mounted relays. Just get MS2 and the harness, and you should be ok.

My MN47 ported heads, out flow most ported P90 or any big intake valve head, with me leaving the stock valves. Keeps the port velocity up also. What most people dont understand, is that to take advantage of the bigger valves, you ALSO need to install bigger seats, or do alot of machining.

The rule is, you cant have any more turbos than you do cams.