1 fast z

Dont you mean 55 degrees off of center for the intake, and 60 degrees off of center for the Exhaust?

Its hard to belive that with all of the HIGH HP RB's, there is no one that has some first hand experience on Degreeing TURBO RB cams, as far as how far retarded and/or advanced you guys have set the cams. I am basicly just trying to poll on what others have set theirs at.

YOu need to do lots of mockup with whichever head your going to use. With that desired CR, you need to have TONS of quench in all areas of the head. Lots of clay, and molding substance, to get an EXACT form of each combustion chamber AFTER the block is bored and the head dowelled to the block. Its not as easy as ordering something out of a cataloge.

I am setting up a set of aftermarket HKS cams for a 26. I have used 110 Degree center before for a lobe center between the IN and EX cams, but not sure if I should set them up with the same again, although it made good power in all areas. Just trying to pole and see what others have done on RB's.

Whoever is on the left was on the brakes after the Eighth.

When you RISE in elevation, you want the engine to LEAN out, NOT richen. It is not because of Back pressure in the EX but rather Atsmospheric Pressure differential. If your engine is tuned for 6000 Feet, and you drop down to sea level, it is basicly like you have a supercharger that puts 3 PSI to your engine, which means you need to richen it up when you drop in elevation.

The CAP is not needed to fire. I have never seen a bad module before, it usually ends up being something else, but it is possible.

Sorry, Just got it, was in a spam box. Will respond shortly.

PM, or Email me the file buick_36@yahoo.com and I can make whatever it is for you.

I was thinking about organizing all of my heads, and taking lots of comparison photos. I have about 30 L series heads, which include all of the US heads, as well as the E30 setup. I would like to complete my collection with a couple of the over seas heads, that we never recived.

I just went out and found it, Ill take a comparison picture tomorrow, against an E31.

No, I am still driving, for another month or so, till sentecing comes . I was in a z car though, but was not speed related, and my lawyer wont let me say much more to the public, untill after I am finished with my case.

Since the thread is alive from the dead, Ill update the photos. BTW, I Have found some 10.5" wheels, that I might by now, so that will give me a .25" per side

Tires have thousands of miles on them. DEFINITLY no rubbing, there are some Videos of the car at MSA autocross floating around somewhere, that can show that. I actually have room on the inside to move them in if I desire, but I wanted to fill the flares. Am I saying they are perfect width to width ratio, no. Am I saying they work perfectly, and hook nice for what I paid, yes. Car has seen 165+ MPH, with no ill effects.

There are some VERY early E88's that are exactly like an E31. I should dig through my heads and see if I can take a picture of it.

It would need to be about 14-1 + for a compressoin ratio. You will need to have a very well ported head. You will probably need to run it on 50mm mikunis if you wanna stay with tripples. I have a 12-1 motor, that is 275 RWHP on pump fuel, and injection, and it took alot of work to get it there. Is it possible, yes, is it practical for a street motor, no. As far as 310 RWHP on a motor, like you are stating jc052685, Do you have ANY specs on that build, thats an awful HIGH number.

I dont think I have seen any z that doesnt have race history, and that also isnt a restored series one car bring more than about 12k. Maybe others have. People ususally end up getting more money by parting out there performace cars. I would keep the z, so you wont look like every other yahoo out on the road, but rather you would be unique.

FINALLY Someone other than me POINTS THIS OUT. JEEZE. Its about a car as a system. This so called 22.5% drivetrain loss comment is pointless. Run it down the drag strip, ONCE and make a 10 or less second pass, then we can see how a car works as a system.

The Citris Stuff I am talking about is purely for alluminum. It makes a head come out of the tank, looking like it was just sand blasted, and does not etch the metal.

Rev Limiter is set at 8300 for awhile on the Twin car. Hits it all to quick also.

Get ahold of a local Engine supply house, and get what is called CITRIS SOAK. Thats what we use in our alluminum Hot tanks.

To find the maximum bore, you need to have the block sonic tested.

Jeff, I dont know if you bought ET drags, or ET streets, but neither work good on the street, and KILL any sort of handling. They work good on concrete with my experience. I would go MT Drag Radials, they work alot better. There are guys with 600 FT LBs to the ground that get MT DR's to hold on the street.

Be sure to check that the drain back has atleast a .625" opening. A kinked line will make a turbo smoke really bad. Also make sure the PVC system is up to snuff.