1 fast z

For the price of studs, I wouldnt be messing around with any ace bolts.

Here is a decent site for you to reference. http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/home_garden/bolts.html

I figured I would give an update on what where doing now. First of all, I ripped the motor apart about two weeks ago. Had a leak, that turned out to be a crack on the intake port of number 4 cylinder. Also had an oil leak between one of the thirds, and turned out to be that the gasket material (which remains un-spoken of right now), started "decomposing". So I made some new gaskets out of another material (which also remains unspoken of), to try out, which I know cant de-compose. I dont want to say what the materials are just as yet, as I want to try them out to prove them. While I had the motor apart I sent the cams off to get re-ground. Stock they came out to be about 205 degrees at .05" and 320" of lift. Yea thats it, it made pretty good power for those cams I think. We came up with about .390" and 215 deg at .050" is what where going for on the intake, and .360" and 210 deg at .050". I did not want to go to large on the ex, so I dont bleed off too much cylinder pressure, during split over lap. I also am trying a different set of turbos now as well. I bought some new cheap turbos, actually spent about 400.00 on two new ones. They are .48 compressor housings, and 63 ex housings. THe stock T3's would not make anymore power difference from 20 psi compared to 25 psi, so the back pressure had to of been to high, and not been able to flow any more air then what 20psi would allow on the zx ex housings. SO I upgraded to bigger housings on the intake and ex. They also do have 360 degree thrust bearings also, and at 27 psi, they are still on the correct portion of the turbo map. Anyways figured I would give everyone who is interested a update. Should get to 700+ rwhp with the new setup, as well as still be streetable. Also, I was gonna link to the other post that I should of posted here in the first place so when someone searches (me haha) I can find all the info. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127559&highlight=dyno+twin+cam Dyno run Dyno chart at 17 psi and stock t3 turbos.

Heat builds spool. A tubular header LOOSES BTU's faster than a heavy cast iron unit. I learned this with my turbo truck I had. There are a few people with over 400 RWHP on stock manifolds. Clifton is one of them. Your wasting your time in my opionion with a tubular manifold, PLUS you have to build the tubing so heavy so it wont crack, that weight isnt much different either. Talk to JeffP about the header, he spend over 1k on and wasnt happy with.

What does the car weigh. Pretty light for sure.

7m heads do NOT flow well, 178 at 25" on the intake track, when a STOCK P90 flows 172 at 25" of water.

Before AFTER

Here was mine from a few years ago on the NA car. Dont have any pics of before, but we all know what a stock intake was like.

And actually with the three strokers I have built, none of them even needed clearencing. Basicly what makes the cost difference between two quality shops is overhead.

What is done to the motor?

A simple valve on the FIDLE circut, to open when cold, and close when up to opperating temperature would suffice.

You can run Corvair pistons. I orignially did this a few years ago, in a F54 block. yes, of the shelve forged pistons. I think I bored my block to 3.4375 to accept them. You have to offset the connection rods, for busings if I remember. They also use a .800" dia pin. BUT my cost on them was like 60.00 a peice, and I got my forged blanks for 54.00 in any bore size, so it was an easy decision which to go with.

I tore my motor down the night before that, I was planning on going, with clifton actually, we had it planned for like a month.

I am curious of this too, as I just came across the thread! ha ha.

For a map sensor you will NEED a balence tube between all 6 runners, for the map/pcv system. If not your map will bounce all over the place, as well as your PCV valve will click very badly.

Did you ever have a wide band on it before dyno tuning?

Rebello, isnt one of those cleaner than a hospital shop, BUT they do excellent work, and for half the money, so thats what your paying for, OVERHEAD.

Yep, your paying for what you see also, the backyard shop can do just as good as job for less money, but people see what LOOKS like a good shop so they pay more just for that.

Thats what a good build motor will cost, if paying for it, for a HIGH end shop, not like most shops. Me being a buisness owner, people sometimes freak, when you tell them what things cost. Perfection cost money. With that said, I would not pay that, but would just have the machine work done, and assemble and clean, etc. myself.

I run 28 degrees timing at 15 lbs of boost and 22 at 25 lbs of boost. I have a 8.3 CR, and a pretty good chamber design. What head is this? Piston to head clearence? That has a BIG part of the detonation resistance issue. Have you verified that what your map says timing is, is the same thing as what your timing light says?

I am looking for the port spacing on the RB26DETT motor. Are the EX ports evenly spaced? Is the 25 a different spacing as well? If it is different what is the spacing on that head.

Daily driven car, with around 750 RWHP goal, at 35 PSI, or so. 25 PSI on the street. Obviously, the less the lag the better. I can modify the flanges to accept whatever I need to, thats not a problem. Just dont want to spend a TON of money.

Magnifluxing, isnt even enough, you NEED to Xray the critcal components, to ensure a crack is not moving from the inside out. Yes, you need to always dowell your flywheel, Ill look up my last to stroker build picturs and show how I did it.

N42 are siamesed cylinders, NOT F54, just thought I would clarify that up.

Maybe you should press in dowells for your harmonic balencer and flywheel bolts also, and get rid of your threads, so you dont create stresses.