crazyoctopus

quick update. carbs were cleaned out and are now ready to be put on the car. I just finished placing the order for the header and exhaust and will be picking it up tomorrow! hopefully it wont be raining so that i can get the new parts installed and get her running.

VW GTI recaros, but good luck finding them.

If the battery were mounted under the hood the ground wire attached to the alt would be prime; but mine is going to be mounted in the rear passenger bin so that wire would have to be at least an 8 gauge. I am going to probably going to use a 8 to connect it somewhere on the firewall. I did make one change to the second diagram that you sent, and that is instead of running 2-wires back to the starter I am going to use a jumper from the # to the Batt on the alternator and run one wire back to the starter. updated diagram. spliced points moved on the starter to better show where the wires will be meeting. also added the information for properly wiring the alternator via geezer on classicz larger image http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4477751862_9ff537d584_o.jpg

Keep it. Use your favorite color of zip-ties and a screw driver and stitch that thing back together.

after doing a bit of looking, i knew there was a reason why this set up was working, and found the link i was looking for http://http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=115803 if you look at my diagram the splice connecting the alt to the coil is after the delco 8078 pigtail. The splices in the diagram in its current state do not relate to the actual placement on the car just to be used as a reference, for now.

distribution center was taken out of a nissan maxima (if you find a 93 they are slightly easier to work with) total cost $6 at a junkyard. the other way would be to actually buy a pre-built fuse box for $16-$170. with the relays, take it off the smae car and they are pre-wired and fairly easy to identify the amperage, just takes some internet browsing. awesome thing about the nissan relay housings is that you can connect however many you want to eaachother (run anywhere from 5-500 relays and they all snap into eachother) as far as the mounting goes, the 240sx (s13) center console lends itself perfectly for the mounting of the fuse box. The relays will be mounted under the dash near the switches. as far as the wiring goes; all of the relays that I buy/use, except the wiper, are 4 terminal relays. In the case of the wiper motor I am even thinking about just cutting that down a bit and making it switched for fast-off, instead of slow-off-fast, but i am still thinking about it. We have made a few more adjustments since rev6, some of the amperages were a bit excessive, decided on going with an eBayish 12v heater, and I moved/removed a couple more circuits/switches/relays that really didn't need to be there. full size >> http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4469515326_a17763031f_o.jpg

new revision, made everything modular. kinda wanted to keep it below 10 circuits but we found some fantastic fuse and relay boxes out of a 90s maxima so how many circuits we use is no longer an issue. larger size >> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4467690139_0c31f79cfe_o.jpg

well... weight is an issue as well. the stock dash and all of its randomness is pretty heavy (i want to say like 20+lbs), and the skin from the 240sx is only like 7-8ish. So if you are gonna call function/form, weight wins.

HKS super sequential blow off valve used to want that soo bad on my 7

nail on the head with "dash is really shot" for my car, no idea what his excuse was. I was thinking about using just a dash cap, but it was still cheaper to go to the junkyard and get the s13 dash and center console.

did a check yesterday before i bought the bolts and studs; from mounting flange to top of K&N filter (3.5" tall) it was about 15" I will have about an inch or so clearance from the filter to the shock tower.

looks like just a normal throttle cable taken off of another car and used on this intake mani.

no it is not. the s13 dash is 54" long (from memory) and the 240z is 50." I have a black, want to trade for tan, 240sx dash sitting in the back of the 240z almost ready to be put in. Once it comes time to swap it in there will be lots of pictures on the process and mounting options. glad you found that photo though, I have been looking for it. I really like his placement of the prop valve and bias adjuster. Interesting use of the fiberglass(?) trim along the top; seems that he isnt running a defroster.

heh, not really anything at all i am waiting for MSA to get their 3-2 header in stock so that I can do both at the triples and the exhaust at the same time. Still need to order that weber rebuild kit, and i have yet to open up the floats and take a gander at what is inside. Once they get it in stock I am driving up there that day! But... I have been doing some cleaning to the manifold and its components and this is what it looks like right now. Still need to clean my spacers, but that should be done later today

Haven't been working on the car too much due to me waiting for the new intake manifold to come in. Saturday was spent in the junkyard looking for random things, and came across a Thule roof rack in great condition. Also while I was up north a couple of friends gave me a 240z wing that they found in a junkyard awhile back; turned out to be the "classic" style wing. When I arrived back home I was pleasantly surprised to see that the Cannon intake manifold was sitting on the doorstep. It is in need of a good cleaning, so it will be a few more days before i get it on the car. More photos can be found here >> http://www.flickr.co...57623419900467/

I have a set of the "diamond" ones. i hate the way they look, but they are a super cheap H4 conversion kit

Moved the wiper motor onto the heater circuit, it just looks like I may be overloading the accessory circuit. The heater connections have been changed. I was planning on running the core with a PC fan, but found this site http://mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/necessary_stuff.htm and am going in that direction. In looking at prices and weights of how to connect the iPod to speakers I found that while a head unit is about $10 more than just an amp, it weighs about 3 times as less. as of right now the cheapest deck that I can find with an aux-in is this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dual+-+50W+x+4+In-Dash+CD+Deck+with+Detachable+Faceplate/9463154.p?id=1218108653996&skuId=9463154 ==if you know of a cheaper one I am all ears, all it needs to have is an aux-in. also added a cigarette lighter so that I can charge my iPhone/iPod while on the road. I think this is nearly the final design version of the diagram, if you can see anything that I missed or ways that I could combine circuits let me know. My goal is to have 8 circuits, but as long as I am under 10 I will be a-okay with it. larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4444494096_1d942b906f_o.jpg

hahaha fantast! edited for awesome!

make one for like $6 from a couple parts that you can find at a hardware store like this

i hope so... I posted this build thread up on retrorides.com and one of the members, rtlkyuubi, photoshopped the car. This is potentially how low it will be, but i will have to really see if i could get it there once 240zdan makes the brackets.

updated for kill switch and fuel pump. large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4442635632_fcedeea5fc_o.jpg

-69mm or 2" backspacing. and really what are you hoping to find that you cant find without doing a bit of searching?

did a quick change to the layout, added a voltmeter as well as the starter and charging circuit completion. the only thing left to add is the 3.5mm headphone to speaker unit. larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4439513011_17611f45c7_o.jpg

could i get away with running the brake lights off of the heater circuit? or better question, are there some circuits that i could combine?

Revision 2 nearly final wiring diagram of the car. Last three things to diagram is the connection from a 280z electric dizzy with HEI ignition module, the starter, and then figure out how i am going to wire the stereo (essentially 2 speakers connected to a 3.5mm headphone jack, i think i need a amplifier? not really sure still doing some research) again, please look over and give advice. =for the time being the gauges are assumed to be autometer, but that may change if i find a better option ==noticed that you cant really see what is attached to the fuel gauge and it is a 350 and 360ohm resistor ran in parallel. large size http://farm5.static....21f783756_o.jpg