HarrisonTX

I used to see them at swap meets for $300, now they are atleast $500, plus bellhousing. Mario, i think the 302 will be cool. I'm running 180cc afr's and a mechanical roller cam. The 283 is just to get the car setup. Whats an SC? supercharger?

I will be the this weekend, what do you need? My girls house is one exit away. I love bud lite long necks.

my plans for the t-5 and 302(yes chevy 302) are still in the works, but coming along real slow due to the expence of the 302 parts, and the WC t-5s costing $500+. I located a 283, from a '63 vette with a holley and aluminum intake for $200 complete, minus dizzy cap, and starter. I have a spare 4 speed (super t-10) with a shifter. Got all my gauges, so it looks my only expensive parts coming up is the JTR kit, and a bellhousing and clutch parts, and exhaust, thats gonna be killer. im pumped! fyi, the motor has been sittin for a while, so im actually building a run-in engine stand to test her out and see if it gets oil pressure so i know if ill need to rebuild it or im good to go how it is.

There is only one lifter manufacturer in the world, or at least thats the story a year ago. Thats why i just bought a speed pro lifter and ran that. Grumpy, i tried e-mailing mikro directly and it was kicked back, crane cam can only offer me one single new lifter.

Where about in dallas? I leave from fort hood to fort worth every weekend, primarily to wrench. I would like to see it, any pics?

I bought Cranes new Z cam, with some hydro lifters, installed them, ran the motor and discovered one didnt pump up, pulled the intake, pulled the lifter out, took it apart and found this! For those who dont know, the part on the left with the divet... yea, that should be a hole. No point in even trying to drill it myself. I contaced crane, the only thing they will offer me is a new lifter, they said they couldnt give me back my half of a saturday. FYI, Grumpy, i was flip flopping between around on cam companies, and i read a post you made and you said something to the effect of "never ever having a problem with crane" based on that, i went the crane route. Im not blaming you, im just sayin crane makes mistakes too. I still may run crane again, ill just check the lifters from now on.

I guess i wasnt too clear. open exhaust didnt cause the pistons to hit the head. The open exhaust was so loud i couldnt hear it happening. They just hit a little nothing major. Now, i think that it caused bearing failure because the piston hits the head, and still needs to travel up, and the crank is trying to push it up, the piston gave a little, and the bearing took the rest of the damage, it was kinda smashed. No problem, this weekend was spent slowly clearencing the heads, and waiting on a new rod.

I wouldnt really reccommend it. I installed some double hump heads (closed chambers) and 7 out of 8 pistons hit the head. Which caused major bearing wear, and a spun rod bearing. had to get the crank turned and new rod. It least make sure everything is gonne work together! (domed pistons)

Yea, those are similar, but i think Phils are a little bigger, which i like, and no bumper which i like, I do perfer the placment globes, best. Thanks for the pics guys.

Thanks for some many responces. Looks like Phil is pretty close, but closer together is exatly what i want. The size is perfect those. I thought about it restricting flow to the radiator, do you think that would be an issue?

That looks slick all blacked out. That is close to what im talkin about, but i mean without a bumper, and a little bigger lites. Big enough you would have to remove the bumper

Hey guys, i did a search and didnt find anything. I think it would be neat looking once i get an airdam installed, leave out the grill, and install 2 fog lights, not those tiny 2 inch ones either, big ones like eleanor on Gone in 60 seconds... Does anyone have some pictures like im talking about? Thanks guy.

sadly, i did not perform this, is an old, old carcraft article, heres the link! a dual quad airgap... bad ass man, just take a measurment with the intake on. Make like a 2 or 3 inch cone out some play-dough or something, and install the intake, the remove the intake, and measure the height of the now flattened play-dough I bet youll have room.. Heres the link, they mention exiting thro the intake, but i think someone would see that, i think exititing thro the back of the block would be best. also mike, that metering block has gotta be the lowest part of the system, and that dosnt seem to be too thick, i think you should be okay. This is sold as a kit, and it comes out to like $900 OUCH!!! Heres the original article http://www.carcraft.com/howto/95718/index1.html Theres also this neat little trick http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0504_hidden_nitrous_kit/

Here ya go

You mean like this?

I cant really help you with your question, but im building a 302 for my 260z also! good luck Mike KZ, thats not how chevy built theres from the factory, the way your talking about, the 283 crank, into a 327 block will only work if both are small journals. Thats how im making mine, and it actaully comes out to a 301, not a 302. Chevys 302's were actaully Large crank journals.

dec '06 issue of Chevy High Performance covers stroking lt1's

Sweet man, that looks real good. Im stationed at fort hood, all the austin folk should meet up. Ive only ever seen 2 v8 z's, and would love to see what yall have done. Good job

This is what the JTR book says. "the dodge omni and plymouth horizon use an electric fuel pump and they use a combination oil pressure light/fuel pump switch. It looks l ike a conventional oil pressure warning switch, but it has 3 terminals. One terminal goes to the oil pressure warning light (which the z does not have) and the other terminals are for the fuel pump. When there is no oil pressure, the fuel pump is turned off. Where there is oil pressure the pump is on. The chevy verga and monza use a similare switch. Another concern with the fuel pump wiring is to have the pump turned on during started op. It the carb fuel bowl is dry, the battery may go dead trying to crank the engine long enough to get oil pressure. *(im my own words that means, wire it so the fuel pump runs when the key is on the on position) Do not connect the wire that operates the starter solenoid to the fuel pump, because when the oil pressure switch turns on the fuel pump, the starter will also be turned on. If you do this one, youll never do it again. If you are using the HEI dizzy, the easiest way to wire the fuel pump for cranking conditions is to connect the green - white (240z) or black - blue (260/280z) wire to the fuel pump wiring. If your using a point type dizzy, connect the fuel pump to the R terminal, on the chevy starter solenoid. This terminal is normally used to bypass the ballast resistor. It ensures that the dizzy gets max volts during cranking Fuel pump switch Use the oil pressure light/fuel pump switch from a 78-80 dodge omni, or plymouth horizon. Wire it t o the v-8 datsun as shown below. The book shows a circle with a terminal at 12 o'clock 6, and 9 at 12 (the positive (+) side of ignition coil or splice into the "bat" on the HEI at 6 (To fuel pump280z green-blue wire) at 9 (to oil pressure warning light) I hope that helps man. I too am in the army, and i too bought a z for the conversion, and turned it into a daily driver. I to am in iraq, and using the z as something to look forward to. I too wont have time till i get out (less than 2 years!!!) Hope that helped brother

I have about 7 z's that i thought worthy to save. I saved 2 pics of yours, noone else got 2 pics saved. I totally dig that paint, i think it would look sweet, orange and black, so i wanted to be able to remember it.

Getz, thats pretty sad to hear about that. you couldnt tighten it down even to even it out? I still think im gonna get one man, take my chances. I just cant decied. There is one they call "drag" version, it has 6 trap doors, and 3 crank scrapers. I think a cirlce track one would be better, but it only has 2 trap doors. Im trying to build more of an autocross car. Any advice? Auctions end soon.

Thanks man, a set number to go by is great. I think the one i want is 7 1/4. Thanks buddy

Has anyone run into any clearance issues using a larger than stock oil pan? There are some awesome deals on Zinc oil pans on ebay. Theres some good options too. My car is going to be more of an autocross car, so im opting for a 6qt pan, with 2 trap doors, Does anyone have suggestions? Thanks