HarrisonTX

I have an orange s30, but its parked under a tree in forrest hill area.

All the lobes are new, i bought thte cam brand new, and installed it. Everything works fine except my pushrods are a little too short, but that shouldnt effect the poly locks loosening. I have seen people set the set screw, and then snug it down, but that effects the lash. I understand that there is tuning in the lash setting, a little tighter or a little looser could gain or loose a little Hp, but if the cam card says .016, im gonna set it at .016 another 1/8 will do a fair amount. Maybe i could set them at .020, and then do a 1/8 turn. the hex key tool is awesome, i forgot all about those, it sure bets trying fumbling the oily wrench and hex key. I have set Hyd. lifters with the motor running, i dont really like the idea of setting solids with it running...

Alright gumpy, heres one for ya, i really need help on this one. I just recently went with a new topend setup for my 355. This is my first solid flat-tappet cam to run. i read alot about solid cams before i bought one, and people they have a bad name for street cars because they need "constant" adjustment. I also read that this is false, and was only true in the days before poly locks. The old jam nuts were so tight on the studs that every time they were adjusted, the nuts would loosen on the stud, and they would come out of adjustment quicker every time. With brand new studs, and poly locks, i thought i would be good. The studs are manley, and the poly locks are ARP. After i broke in the cam, and did all the right things, i made sure everything was still set properly, and took her on a drive. After about 30 miles, some poly locks lossened a bit, enough to hear, and notice a perfomance difference. I set them again, and drove home, with them already loosening in the 30 miles back. My method may not be the best method. I need something that is methodical that i can go by. Like, get the motor to TDC, set cylinder one, and ?, turn the motor so much, and set number ?, and ?. I know there is a better way than how i do it. You got a link for me? Thanks man! I want to be the tough guy who runs a solid cam on the street, and dosnt bitch about it. I wouldnt mind setting them every 500 miles, but not even being about to drive around town sucks!

Thanks grumpy. Im trackin with you, about the fuel gauge in the car. I know that is dangerous. I would mount it right in front of the windsheild on the outside if i was going to keep an eye on it. A DEALER SHOP MANUAL is a little behind me. The 355 i built has a forged bottom end, brodix aluminum heads, and a nice loapy solid cam. Im running the stock (3/8 id) steel fuel line. I chose to run that, rather than my route my own because the stock steel one is ran in the frame. I do not have a return line yet, which im sure is why my Holley Blue pump burned up within 200 miles. The pump is mounted on outside of the spare tire well, protected by the frame. Thanks for the info grump

Grumpy, Teach me about fuel pressue gauges. On my '79 malibu, with a hot 355, i have unknown fuel pressure. Im running an electric pump, through a regulator, that feeds a holley with a HP main body. I see some fuel pressue gauges mounted on the carb, only visible from the standing at a fender, and some mounted in-car or visible from in the drivers seat. Why do i need one (obviously to prevent fuel starvation i guess) Why do some people want to moniter it all the time and some under the hood.. Thanks grump

I wonder if they make a drop base bottom 5.25... I havnt seen one. I wonder if a drop base 14'' would work for you. i dont know, because it would extend about 5 inches further towards the front of the car, as well as drop down... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AIR-CLEANER-14-DROP-BASE-5-1-8-CARB-FLANGE-K-N_W0QQitemZ110282726133QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110282726133&_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A1|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

hell of deal, they run around $500 around me.

Great man! I have been piecing mine together for years, and just got my parts out of the machine shop. I went with a small journal 327 block, and a small journal 283 crank. I have some ProComp H-beams (NEEDS arp rod bolts) and some JE pistons, the last of 2 sets left in America i was told. The only thing im missing, is a cam grind, and a carb. I have some solid roller lifters, i just need to figure up a cam. Please let me know what you pick, and how it turns out. Im going to run a super t-10 4 speed, or a TKO 5 speed, right now i have 3.90 gears for the car. Like i said, i just got the parts outa the machine shop, and im dying to piece it together!!! I commend you for not running a 383

killer setup man. I never wanted to run an oil cooler, cause i know oil needs to get hot. Amazing, an oil thermostat. That is the neatest thing i have seen in a while.

Very nice job. Maybe we can get an audio clip? What about a side shot of the car, on the ground so we can see the ground clearence? I run an x-pipe on my malibu, but i had flanges welded infront of, and behind the x-pipe, so i could drop portions of the exhaust easly when i remove the tranny for clutches and such. Good work on the heat shield also. edit: why the remote oil filter?

Any update man? That really really sucks. That kinda makes me want to run a fuel pump shut off switch on my malibu, and Z. They would get about half a block with the fuel left in the bowls. I carry a gun in my truck, i dont know if i woulda drawn or not with them that close, and having the "drop" on me

buZy, Thanks for all the info! I thought that just had to have an aluminum flywheel to be rappin up that quick. I havnt heard one yet in a street driven car. I hear people complain about them becuase the RPMS drop too much between shifts, i think those people just are not shifting it fast enough. Is it alot different than a steel flywheel? Thanks for the flowmaster info too. Wouldnt have thought they were race mufflers. I also saw the video of the exhaust you posted on youtube, thanks!!

BuZy, I watched that vid, pretty sick setup man. If you did all the work, great job. Looks like no short cuts were taken. now, the 98 t56 should be an LS1 unit, right? I have actually been searchin for an Lt1 t56, becuase i thought it would be easier to make work, how much is the weir kit? I went to thier website, and there is no pricing information. Im aware that flowmaster makes many series, i run Series 40 delta flow, flowmasters on my truck they are rather quiet, for my z, i would rather have your sound. Do you have an aluminum flywheel or something? that 327 rapped up real quick man. I am buildin a 302 chevy for that exact reason.

Jesus, that sounded freakin awesome! How high did you spin that 327 in the video? sounded great. What series flowmasters are those? I usually hate flow's but damn, i can only imagine what my 302 will sound like through those. Do you have any pics of the exhaust, how its routed along the trans tunnel? i hear you check for neutral when you start it, what kinda gear box do you have? Sweet sweet ride man.

nearly $400? wow thats a ton for a little extra oil. I would just drill and tap the stock cover, and run a cooler

has anyone totally removed the spare tire area, and made it flat bottom with the car? I thought about notching it, but if i did that, it would be useless, so why not just completely remove it? I want dual exhaust, and i want 2 mufflers. From what i have read there is almost no room for this setup

Steve, I run one in my malibu. My unit is rebuilt, and i have exactly 325 RWHP, and with slicks i dump the clutch at 3300 RPM, and the trans takes every bit of it. I have an additional super t-10 that i am going to use with my small block in my datsun. They will take just about anything you throw at them. They are just as strong as the muncies you always hear about.

What about these $110 ones from ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Chevy-Block-Hugger-Header-SBC-283-305-327-350-400_W0QQitemZ280223691022QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280223691022& or these $80 ones http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-327-305-CHEVY-CHROME-HEADER-HUGGER-SBC-EXHAUST_W0QQitemZ120258061746QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item120258061746&

Jagsthatrun.com

Lol, that maybe worth the 8 hour drive from Lubbock... fun trip!

Does anyone have any harness pics with stock seats? Also, Where they heck do you mount the strap ends too?

Thats sweet man. You must be excited as hell!

Its an aggressive solid roller grind, and a Team G single plane intake with AFR eliminator heads. it will make 450HP easy, if you dont think so cool, i will video when i dyno the motor out of the car 280z383, Im up in lubbock, how about i swing down there for a ride one weekend ?

Rock on man, thanks for the pics. Will any shifter fit in any location? If i choose to move my shifter to your location i can use the same shifter, right? Is it as easy as just unboltin the plate and stickin the shifter in new location? I am pumped man, this beats usin my other 4 speed for this.