bjhines

I have done a few sets, both bonded and bolted on. There is no right way to do them. I have always needed them for tire clearance and fit them according to the positions of the tires. A general rule seems to be that the lower edge of the flares can be the same height as the original fender edges. You place the tip of the flare so the it starts at the lower body detail/fillet line and set it so the inner edge is even with the original height. On the fronts; make sure your tires don't hit the front edge of the flares or the airdam sides(this is a typical problem area). With that said, Many folks have changed the positions of the wheels under the body with increased caster up front and increased toe in under the rear. That has lead to many RE-DOs of fender flares in the past. I have seen so many people get the car out for the first time and then find that the flares are not in the right place for clearance and looks. With any car build you need to have your suspension and tires figured out first. then modify the bodywork to fit them. Tire rub inside wheel well. This is with typical fender rolling work and the suspension is bound against the halfshafts. We need more room. Layout for placement. Initial cut. Cut and filler strip. Welded and trimmed. Temporary clamping screw for glue. Fillet Screws removed and fillets done Ready for paint Off to the races and they still hit just slightly under hard acceleration, uphill, apexing over the gators. dammit, but this is not a problem with the flares just a little more metal relief to do.

Hood Vents below http://www.hinesperformance.com/store/HEX-Vent-5GC-Edition.html

I did it to Rosco's 280Z and he loves them, but the time involved is mighty high.

Awesome, I was looking at making that piece in mirror images, glad you turned me on to these C6 Corvette Z06 parts.

It is only running on 5 cylinders. That is why it is backfiring. You have an ignition problem, likely the spark plug wires.

The other aspect to consider is drag and required downforce at required speed. The drag style wing produces less downforce but improves cd and stability. The drag wing has more consistent performance over a broad range of speeds. The 3d style big-wing produces more downforce as speed increases but also has more drag as speed increases. The wing was designed to work best at a certain speed; and it is tuned to work best at certain parts of the roadrace track.

That was a fun build. We found a few issues that caused some scope creep, but all in all it went very well. My experience with s30 chassis mods made this a more exacting chassis build than most. The electrical system is highly sophisticated and includes proper power distribution, safety/kill system, noise and transient suppression, signal separation and shielding. The drivers position was carefully mocked up and included 2 fitting sessions to finalize position and access to controls. The roll cage is the tightest I have ever seen in an S30. We managed to get the bars out of sight and away from elbows and helmet contact areas. The corner gussets and wide door bars make this thing easy to get in and out of. I managed to get mirrors properly positioned with a stock rear view and Toyota side views mounted in window corners. The car allows decent situ awareness even with a cage and big rear wing. Shakedown went nearly flawlessly. We checked and double checked everything. The only failure was a burned out ignition coil, which has been replaced with a proper coil this time.

1. There is a lot of access with a rotisserie that cannot be easily had in any other way. 2. There is a chassis dimension guide in the service manuals that should be used to ensure a straight car before you fab the roll cage. 3. The wheel and tire combo is absolutely necessary on hand before you start your project. Seat and steering wheel+mount are also needed for mockup. 4. The front end upper strut mounts may need to be moved rearward(3/4") to increase caster without moving the wheels too far forward.

Awwwww...

Stops Flex and seals airflow. Also remove pins for trailer ramp flexibility.

It appears to be a Toyota 4x4 caliper. It may be a stock rotor.

That is awesome!

I have noticed that the discharged oil has air pockets that are audible when cycling the system with the engine off. Obviously the air separates once it is in the canister. Then you get non-aerated oil with air pockets occasionally moving with it. The discharge oil is also cooler than circulating oil.

Maintenance is a drawback. I cycle the system and recharge the air side as often as possible. I do not trust it as I have had several times on track that it did not work properly. Air leaks in the AIR gauge plumbing, and air bypassing the O-ringed piston will cause a loss of air charge. Eventually oil will end up on the AIR-side and the canister must be drained on both sides and rebuilt. Observe the peak oil pressure on the OIL-pres. gauge and the AIR-charge on the Accusump gauge. The Accusump should always read higher than the Oil pressure gauge in my system. If the Accusump is lower, then the piston has bottomed out in the cylinder and cannot give you a full discharge. I have a dynamic difference in pressure due to the location of the gauge ports in the system(accusump in AN-10 lines and the Oil-P gauge on the top gallery port on SBC. I considered a differential pressure switch(like the brake system warning SW). plumbed to the OIl side and AIR side of the canister to indicate piston bottoming. I could even indicate nominal Pre charge one way, and low pre charge the other way, with a DPDT differential switch. If this were installed in a factory car(Like MANY DO) with the EPC valve(Like LOTUS EXIGE DOES), I would provide an automatic Precharge pump and I would set up a Differential pressure indicator like I just described. Unfortunately Lotus DOES NOT do anything beyond Canton's original design. I have also considered embedding a magnet in the piston, and using reed switches on both ends of the cylinder exterior. Problems with piston rotating away from reed locations come to mind. The magnetic/electrical bottoming indicator would reduce leak points from differential pressure plumbing. Where there is a will there is a way.

I also use 2 different sirens and a multi-colored warning light in the TACH that indicates operation of the system. Green is NOMINAL, Yellow and low pitch siren = Discharge, Red and high pitch siren = Less than 10 PSI oil pressure.

Call them yourself. You will be instantly AMAZED at how small and shoddy their literature and print ads really are. If you want ot know exactly how their stuff works then do what I did and try ALL of the available options. I have used them ALL and I stand by my testing and observations.

I called CANTON Racing to clear up that statement. I was told that it was written by "Marketing people" and the technician admitted it was confusing and INCORRECT!

The system refills through a ONE-WAY Valve that ALWAYS allows refill at a restricted rate. The system cannot release oil until the pressure switch releases the oil, Oil which has been brought to PEAK PRESSURE between turns. This description explains why the EPC is sooo much more effective than the "Standard Valves". I am using the system and I have confirmed it's operation on the bench. There is no question as to how this operates or how it is better than the NON-EPC valves.

Nice welding there!

I tackled the crankcase evacuation system as well. After a few experiments I managed to keep 5"Hg vac at all times through 2 different systems. I used fabricated tall valve covers to clear rockers. I have baffled, push in vents in both covers. I use a catch can plumbed to both covers. The PCV system and exhaust-pulse-scavenging both pull vac on the system catch can. I tried another system as well, but ended up NOT using the electric pump. This is a fairly high current pump. It is similar to a small 12V Shop-Vac. it pulls 5" Hg VAC at 18 AMPS/12DCV. It can flow a LARGE volume and it seems resistant to oil vapors.

I would like to clear up some information about the Accusump systems. I monitored oil pressure and other indicators with in-car video. My SBC oil pressure dropped on some hard right handers after braking upon turning in. The dip is brief and the engine is not under load, but it was half the turns on the course. I installed a trap door pan, crank scraper, windage tray, and an EPC Accusump system,and a high pressure spring on the HV oil pump(to make the Accusump more effective). There is some confusion over the basic operation of the various Accusump valves. 1. Mechanical valve: Valve is open during normal use. This is a 2-way(ball type)valve. The Accusump refills and discharges at the same rate. This is the least effective system. This is more of a classic PRE-OILER, system that will also provide some damping of pressure variations. The larger the better in this case. A larger volume will provide a greater damping effect. 2. Electric Valve: This is where there are some variations between systems. 2a. Standard Electric Valve: Works exactly like the Mechanical Valve. Same limitations, Same damping effect on pressure.EDIT: It appears that the Electric valve is restricted refill as well. 2b. EPC Electric Valve: This is a more complex arrangement that provides some remarkable advantages for maintaining oil pressure during hard cornering/acceleration, etc. The EPC valve is a restricted refill with ONE WAY, hold-until-release operation. This means that PEAK OIL PRESSURE is held in the Accusump until the EPC switch releases the highly pressurizes oil. This maximizes the volume AND pressure of the oil discharge. It maximizes the available volume of oil and the time that the Accusump can maintain oil pressure in the engine. The system refills at a restricted rate to ensure most of the available oil-pump volume is sent to the engine. The Accusump refills slowly but in plenty of time for the next turn-in. I run 90 PSI oil pressure spring and a 25 PSI EPC switch. My Accusump gauge peaks out at around 80PSI, while my oil pressure gauge reads slightly lower at 65 PSI, Due to location of SBC gallery port on top of the engine vs. the Accusump further upstream in the larger -10AN plumbing. I am using the check valve(oil to engine instead of backwards to pump) and I have an oil cooler and an oil thermostat, all of it is AN-10 plumbing. .

Good call. I have been strung along by bad sellers until the 45 days ran out then no more responses and no product. They know the deal and they should be willing to refund and reinstate the sale to reset the 45 day period. This dude if full of shit and should be reprimanded for trying to steal from you.

Looking at the torque curve, Generally speaking you want to shift "around the peak" ie. 5400@299ftlbs. For a 1500 RPM drop that would be shifting at 6500@282ftlbs which would drop to 5000@287ftlbs. You can leave it in 4th and run to 7500@250ftlbs. Going to a 4.11 rear would bring that non-ideal overdrive into play in more zones.

Hmm... John C. is a smart guy with a lot of experience. He has made some great parts that I have I included in my own projects. I have also added a triangle brace and found that the firewall is not very strong at the top there where we all would like to add the center brace. The strongest part is 5" down where the bottom of the hood latch bracket is welded. Unfortunately the engine is in the way that low down. There have been many different approaches to stiffening this area. Here is mine http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/bjhines/V8%20240Z%20project/roll%20cage/Dashbargussets.jpg ...