johnc

Ok folks, a reminder from the classified rules: 6. HybridZ Classifieds are used to buy parts/product. NOT to tell sellers you can get it cheaper somewhere else. You can place a lower offer to the seller, but statements of "being over price" will not be tolerated. A few folks are not aware of this rule or are choosing to ignore it. Unless the seller asks for opinions on pricing, keep your opinions to yourself. I'm going to start deleteing comments in for sale adds that violate this and warn the commenter.

Rear hubs will also wear out (oval). I've thrown two away over the years. Front hubs need inspection every year or two if the car is raced.

I strap to the frame. I've seen amazing things happen to cars strapped by the wheels.

This design worked. I was able to increase front spring rate to 375 lb. in. and see improvements in lap times. T-Mag (Bill Savage) did some FEA on the S30 chassis and this design gave the greatest improvement in front end stiffness short of an 8 point roll cage.

Having done two swaps for customers, set aside about $10k if you are doing it yourself.

Just cut out the roof skin and leave the frame in place.

Localized hot spots. Typically from an uneven casting.

I think NewZed nailed it.

FYI... Well start moving old posts into the forum as we find them.

That is Tabco.

Not original. A somewhat common US aftermarket wheel during the 1970s. I think they were made by Appliance.

From the slight bluing on the axle you might have a bad side bearing.

Pull it out and center the snap ring in the splines. Check the end of the side axle for a clean taper and no burrs. Put a little grease on the end of the side axle.

Maybe the benefits are not so shocking and awesome? Are to reply to TimZ, the Sunbelt can had a ,564 lift on the intake side. I don't know anything about the spring specifications but you might want to look at BMW applications. Might also want to check with Piper cams in the UK.

If you can get 40mpg with 3.36 ratio (as claimed in the article) you'll never make back the cost of the custom R&P with the hoped for additional fuel savings. Experimenting with a taller tire would be a cheaper way to find out.

Might as well make room for a diffuser...

Look for alternative rear sump oil pans.

You need to crawl around and under the and pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from.

The roll bar is 4130 steel 1.5" OD x .083" wall. Its plenty strong and welded in correctly by a guy named Dave Kent back in 1994. He built the Daytona IMSA race winning RX7s in the early 1980s. Here are some pics of the car back when I raced it: http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/album/624-rod/ There are also some pics of the fab work done on it here: http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/album/470-fabrication/

Jim Thimpson at Sunbelt/Kinetic developed a set for my race engine back in 2001. He sold them as part of a kit with a cam and retainers he had also developed for my engine. The springs had an installed seat pressure 25 lbs less then stock and were good to 9,000 rpm. The cam and springs are NLA but he did sell about a dozen kits.

Beehive single valve springs.

Put a pry bar on the diff and move the nose up and down and the back side to side. See if you can duplicate the sound. Also check the transverse link and the transverse link braces. If you have a rear sway bar check it for binding. Also check to see if your front and rear springs are seated correctly.

Check the front diff mount.

You've got 1 fillet weld and 3 butt welds. The fillet weld should be a slower pass with the gun pointing at the root and laid back about 50 degrees. Push the weld. The 3 butt welds can be done with a faster pass again with the gun pointed at the root and laid back to about 75 degrees.

Perfectly serious.