johnc

Just weld the crossmember in place.

Corner balancing a street car is silly.

For a street car set the front ride height so you have at least 1.5" of bump travel at the shock shaft before hitting the bump stop. Measure the Ride height at the front of the rocker panel just behind the front fender bolt. Add 1/2" to that number that's your rear ride height measured at the rear of the rocker panel.

Add 8 oz. of frriction modifier. That's the cheapest thing you can do right now. I would also get away from the Motul 90PA. Over the years I've heard a lot of complaints like yours on Nissan, BMW, and Porsche CLSDs. Redline 75W/140 is what I used with the aforementioned friction modifier.

Roll the end with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Get a replacement part.

I have not replaced those frame rails but I have patched a few. It's just like any other sheet metal patch.

They have no idea what a S30 is.

By mounting the mustache bar solidly you are moving the majority of the loads into the mustache bar mounts and the rear diff cover. Depending on power and tire size/grip you can start cracking in those areas.

When you start going above 300 lb. in. (especially in the front) you have to think about stiffening the chassis on a 240Z. Some of that higher rate gets absorbed by chassis flex so you're not getting the full benefit. The car starts to feel vague and won't take a firm set.

Two thumbs up.

The Rusty Old Datsun had close to $20k invested in the suspension and wheels and tires. You can get 80% of that benefit for about $10K. Spend 50% of your suspension budget on the shocks. This is where you get the most bang for your buck.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62474-what-betamotorsports-does

The answer is yes. I saw a steady state 1.5g lateral on my 240z running Hoosier A4s. You can see more then that on slicks.

Most likely engine mounts.

The 25 year rule applies to importation only. Cars that were sold in the USA originally have to comply with Federal safety and emissions regulations for the life of the car while registered for street use in the USA. But, again, Federal enforcement of DOT regulations is almost non-existent for privately owned non-commercial vehicles.

Wheelbase and brakes. Get the longest wheelbase vehicle you can afford and that will fit in your parking spot. 200hp 6 cylinder is fine for where you're at. Your tow vehicle should have semi-metallic or carbon brake pads with racing brake fluid, good radiator and trans cooler (if automatic), and good performance truck tires.

Porterfields R4E. R4 won't survive a race weekend even with four 3" ducts on stock brakes. Been there, done that.

When I raced using the stock brakes I had to decide whether I wanted good brakes at the start or at the end of the race. A lot depended on how I qualified. If near the front, I would use the brakes hard at the start of the race and then ease up on them towards the end. If I qualified poorly I would save the brakes while working through traffic for a hard charge at the end.

I can't say whether the current installation is safe or unsafe. All depends on how you crash. I will say that I would never personally install the harnesses in my or my customers car that way. Those factory mounting holes are fine because they are for the Nissan Sports Option roll bar. Install the crotch strap as I mentioned.

a harness at that bolts to all three strut mounting bolts on both sides is a better option. At least a 1" OD by .120 wall tube. For a single crotch strap the mounting point should be centered In the floor pan under the seat and back behind your butt.

You just have to drive while being easy on the brakes. On hard and then off for short intervals Don't drag the brakes, no trail braking, left foot brake, and learn how to carry more speed through the corners. Move roll stiffness to the back of the car so it rotates more and gives better control with the throttle. Install the front brake backng plates from a early car or run no front backing plates. Hawk blues have worked well for me. Most important, take weight out of the car and make sure the rear drums are adjusted tight.

Congratulations!

Yes, there is a specific gland it for Konis. You buy them from Koni or get the gland nut from the person that sold you the shocks.

If you are going with a BMW suspension, the E36 or E46 front and rear suspensions are a better choice then the M6 components. Either way, it's hundreds of hours of work. Search this site, it's been done before.