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johnc

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Everything posted by johnc

  1. johnc
    FYI... You are not going to get the alignment right the first time. You have to do a few test sessions and take tire temps to find out what's right for you and your car. You will also adjust the alignment between sessions to better suit the track and the conditions. That's normal. I suggest you have a marked setting for the street alignment only. And for toe adjustment, you don't mark anything, you count turns.
  2. johnc
    I would run a converter - the torque multiplication helps. Make sure its a full manual valve body. I autocrossed a Corvette with an auto and the valve body would hold the gear on upshifts but it would downshift if it thought it was needed. That led to a lot of lurid slides when the transmission downshifted at a corner apex while I was squeezing on the throttle.
  3. johnc
    You should be able to switch back and forth without too much trouble. Once a year have an alignment shop check each setup to make sure your marks (or something else) hasn't moved.
  4. johnc
    Lead in a weld like isn't really bad. I've welded free machining steel (12L14) and not had an issue with post weld cracking. Don't worry about getting every spec of lead out of the joint.
  5. johnc
    My pear shaped figure is what causes the worship...
  6. johnc
    FYI... that crack probably existed before you put the full roll cage in the car. I don't think it will continue to propagate now that you have the cage. As Jon said, a torch that gets to 800F and a wire brush. Wear a breather and eye protection.
  7. johnc
    You need more then coil overs. You need to notch the frame in a couple spots, relocate brake line mounting, figure out something to fix the front steering, and clearance the upper frame horns.
  8. johnc
    Don't make any changes (other then the tire pressure recommendations) until you get the alignment done. Regarding the rear, the numbers should be similar at static ride height. Toe in and camber is good regardless of the rear suspension setup.
  9. johnc
    Does the car understeer on corner entry, mid corner, and corner exit? Does it understeer under power? Does the understeer go away if you lift off the throttle? Does the understeer go away if you unwind the steering? Also, as Keith said, alignment is critical and is the reason you're putting all that stuff on the car.
  10. johnc
    There are a few stance threads on here but its not something discussed often. We are more about performance then style. If you do some searching you should be able to find the threads.
  11. johnc
    I've never had an issue with a properly wired car. DIsconnect the battery negative ground.
  12. johnc
    http://www.fedhillusa.com/
  13. johnc
    It sounds like you've made up your mind and just want validation from us.
  14. johnc
    Why not reflash the ECU or install an aftermarket ECU?
  15. johnc
    You're all over the map with your questions. Please take some time and do some reading here. There are over 10 years of discussions about 3.2 and 3.1L engine builds. All your N42 questions have been answered. You just have to search a bit and find them. Regarding the clutches, go to the OSG USA web site and read up, or call them.
  16. johnc
    Their scenario is stuck on ice, hill climbing, mud, or some other low speed traction event. They are not talking about road racing unless they are clueless.
  17. johnc
    If its a true fuel cell with a kevlar reinforced rubber bladder you have much less to worry about. Those things can take a hard hit and not leak fuel.
  18. johnc
    Why not buy two cheap 5hp compressors, a bigger motor, smaller motor pulley, and hook this mess up to one tank?
  19. johnc
    If you don't use sliders, reinforced factory mounts work fine for almost any seat. In almost all cases you have to move the seat toward the center of the car to get the shoulder supports away from the door. If you cut out and replace the factory seat mounts you can add sliders. If you have purchased a FIA rated seat you have to mount it without sliders or use FIA rated sliders if you to retain the FIA safety rating on the seat.
  20. johnc
    Listen to Tony. For my shop I talked with a local compressor service company about a rebuilt older unit. They had a rebuilt1950s Kellogg compressor with a new Baldor motor on a tested 120 gallon tank. $1,500 and they threw in a working Kellogg air dryer and 60'of copper pipe. Older units are nice because the run at a lower rpm and are less noisy. I ran that compressor for 12 years and sold it and the dryer for $1,500.
  21. johnc
    A full data collection system on your car and someone who knows how to interpret it will do a lot towards making you a better driver. Short of that, I found tire temp data, section times, and lap times helped me.
  22. johnc
    How it's enforced is regional but if you download the NASA. Pro Racing rule book it's in there. NoCal and SoCal NASA regions are pretty strict.
  23. johnc
    First and foremost, consult the rule book for the sanctioning body you intent to race with. If you don't know that, the download the SCCA GCR or the 253 section of the FIA rule book. If you build a cage to either of these standards you are good to go with just about any sanctioning body - and you'll be safe.
  24. johnc
    As a side note, Nissan does an incredibly poor job supporting its racer community.
  25. johnc
    Knowledge is power. And Clark is right about the FSM giving you the data needed to plot the chassis. Now that I'm working on vintage Porsches, the shop manual gives all the chassis and suspension measurements. It took me about an hour to enter it all. Models for the 901 chassis are a dome a dozen because, in 1964, Porsche cared about the racers.
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