johnc

At the cost of more camber loss due to roll. The S30, being a strut suspension car, loses a lot of camber in roll and that's why you start out with over 3 degrees static in front. Reducing roll helps to keep the tire square with the road surface. But, too much roll stiffness through bars decreases compliance and makes the "independent" suspension less so. Its all a compromise.

I laughed my ass off...

An aside here: if you're waiting to see the corner exit before squeezing the power down your car is either an ill handling pig or you're still learning how to drive...

The spring rates you're ruining are fine for your current level of driving ability. As you increase spring rate the car becomes less forgiving because the tires are working harder (as Jon mentions above). Wait at least a year before bumping up the rates.

Not exactly true. The P&W J58 is a variable cycle turbojet that has a compressor assisted ramjet section. At high Mach speeds 60 to 80% of the engine's thrust came from a fan assisted ramjet bypass of the turbojet burner section. It does not have an unlimited power output (top speed) due to the heat created by compressing the air with the supersonic shock wave. At full power it generated about 35,000 lbs of thrust.

From mark Ortiz's latest newsletter.

If you want to search the CIA documents related to the A12 (Oxcart) program, the fully declassified list is here: http://www.foia.cia.gov/search.asp?pageNumber=1&freqReqRecord=a12.txt

Looks orders of magnitude better then before. You are getting a lot of push so here are a couple suggestions: 1. Brake a little earlier and don't pop off the brake pedal. Ease off the brake pedal as you're turning in. 2. Slower hands on corner entry, don't throw in steering and overload the front tires. 3. Shorten your steering arms. 4. Increase front rebound by 1/2 turn.

The A12 and SR71 maxed out at about Mach 3.2 although one pilot flying over Libya hit Mach 3.3 outrunning a SAM. The A21 first flew in 1962 and the SR71 first flew in 1964. The A12 also was used as the basis for the M21/D21 drone program. Imagine launching a Mach 3.5+ drone from the back of the A12 at Mach 3.

No, you're not dumb. It was something worth thinking about.

Better shocks, stockier tires. Also, a "typical" race setup isn't the 1" front and 3/4" rear bar. That's a normal baseline to get started but most race setups evolve from that based on testing and driver preference. Anything from 28mm front and no rear bar to 19mm front and 13mm rear bars. I rarely (if ever) see a rear bar greater then 19mm on a race S30.

It is. The cable runs down inside the groove on a progressive cam.

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/welt_tc-400.htm

Actually, a few do still exist in A-12 (the original) form. Of the original 13 built (and not crashed) at least 7 were in storage at Palmdale until the late 1980s when they were released by the Air Force for display in museums and Air Force bases. You can find them on display in NYC, San Diego, Birmingham, Mobile, Huntsville, Langley, and LA. FYI... the A-12s were the real super secret Oxcarts and were flying at least 2 years before the SR71.

More difficult because of the thicker metal and the short surface area. After that you'll have to weld up the holes. Probably better to cut out and repalce the dented section. I would also try to re-do the exhaust and move it up a couple inches.

Those are an extension of the combuster nozzle and are part of the combustion process - fuel is generally still burning at the entrance to the thrust augmenter. That example is irrelevant to an internal combustion engine. What you are describing above is a basic merge collector which we all already know about.

Download the factory service manual.

In addition to this intro class, take another class focused just on MIG welding, if you can afford it. The flux core stuff is next to useless for doing proper automotive welding.

Track coolant temps were stable (after I corrected a bleed issue) at 200F. Oil temps were stable at 240. NA race engine (13.6 to 1 CR). You test temp gauges on the stove with the probe in a pan of water. Should read 212F when the water boils.

THE most important performance thing Stance sells are the shocks. The springs, threaded tubes, camber plates, etc. are basic mechanical devices that are well understood and easy to make right. What makes their product good is the quality of the shock. What Jon alludes to above is that A LOT of low dollar aftermarket "coil over" kit builders scrimp on the shocks. The valving is inconsistent from shock-to-shock and the range of adjustment is not the same from shock-to-shock. In essence you're installing four completely different shocks on your car. For some folks, that's completely acceptable and they probably won't ever notice the difference. Just putting new shocks of any kind on their car is a huge improvement over the blown out originals. Stance appears to be a step above these low dollar product companies and at least they have customers out racing. Hopefully Stance is learning from the racers and improving their products.

Brilliant!

No. It all helps but you can do none, some, or all and you don't have to do it all at one, although its a lot easier and cheaper in the long run to get the chassis work done in one shot. That's a great idea. Scrape/tear it all off and make sure.

The P90 head, used as is on a NA application, will most likely lose power (compared to an equally good condition N42, E31, etc.) due to the larger combustion chamber size and the resulting drop in compression. Please search, this has been discussed dozens of times over the decade this site has existed.

Based on some dyno testing I saw back in the mid-1990s and again in the early 2000s, the L6 will make the most power with a stable coolant temperature right at 200 degrees. That assumes there's no nucleate boiling back at the exhaust valve seats on number 5 and 6. For a street car the temp ranges Hoov posted above make a lot of sense. Also, make sure your temp gauge is accurate. Most are not.

I have no idea what this sentence means. Anyway, it sounds like the poster above has a nice N42 3.1L block for sale. Good luck.