johnc

I can offer some tips - accuracy matters - measure to the 32nd of an inch or .0325 if possible. Measure from or two a known flat surface. Use plumb bobs and lasers (if you have them). Cut the heads off bolts (M8, M10, M12, M14, etc.) and mill one end to an exact center point. Put these bolts into whatever you're measuring to give the center of the mounting hole. Check the straightness of parts before measuring to make sure you're not measuring a bent part (that one set me back a day). Clean everything. Remove the springs and sway bars and reassemble the suspension.

Then measure and input. I have WinGeo3 from Mitchell and spent 40 hours measuring and entering the S30 dimensions. Its not a trivial thing if you want any kind of accuracy.

Generally true. A lot of air can flow through a 3" tube. More then enough for 500 hp.

Do you want the most recommended or the most used aftermarket performance suspension for the s30? By far the most used is Koni or Tokico shocks in shortened strut tubes with welded on collar rings, aluminum threaded collars with adjustable lower spring perches, camber plates on top, and 2.5" springs. In addition, front and rear sway bars with poly bushings or spherical bearings. That's it. Stock control arms and lot of other stock parts. A lot of lap records were set with that simple setup.

I cut two 3" holes behind each strut tower and made a belly pan that ran from the core support to the crossmember. That forced the hot air back and down under the car (the belly pan created a low pressure area under the engine compartment) and out into the wheel wells which are traditionally low pressure areas.

Contact Slovers Porting Service: http://www.sloversportingservice.com/

I agree that getting the air filter in front of the core support is a good idea. You can also run it into the front of the wheel well and protect it with sheet metal. You will have to clean it more often in that position. Air temperature is just one part of the air density calculation. Humidity and barometric pressure are other components. I've instrumented the engine bay of my own racing 240z and saw engine bay temps within 20 degrees of ambient at speeds over 25 mph. It was a NA engine and I made mods to get the air out of the compartment. A turbo engine will be hotter. Moving air filter out of the engine bay will give more room to get air out.

10% for a street engine and 2.5% for a race engine.

I assume your RB is turbo charged. If so, the intake air temp at the air filter is basically meaningless if you are running an intercooler. Also, under hood temps with the car sitting still are also meaningless. And a1% horsepower increase for every 10 degree drop on IAT is BS. So, I'm not sure where to go from here to provide an answer.

Throw away the Cosmo stuff.

As you go up in spring rate you also need less bump travel. At tarmac racing spring rates (300 to 400 lb. in.) 1.5 to 2" of bump travel at the shock shaft is plenty. That works out to about 2.5 to 2.75" of wheel travel.

Again, shocks, shocks, shocks. Revalved Bilstein P30s are the cheapest good option, Koni 8610s are a better choice (IMHO), and then you can go with threaded body Bilstein P36s but that would take some more fabrication work.

You'll probably want to run with NASA in TT (Time Trial) or PT (wheel to wheel). I suggest you start in TT. These categories with NASA classify cars in a base class and then are upgraded to higher classes based on mid points. Since your car is an engine swap you'll be classes based on power to weight, drive type, and tires. Download and read the rule book. First thing, figure out what tires you are going to run. Everything else depends on this decision A great limited slip diff should.be your first purchase. OS Giken Super Lock. Then spend your next big chunk of money on shocks. For a strut suspension the shocks are the most important purchase. You should be spending more money on the shocks them what you spend on control arms, camber plates, etc. This should be enough to get you started.

You're missing the lock nut, washer, rubber bushing, and metal bushing sleeve.

I don't know.

Different spring rates on Euro cars.

Ask Dave what jetting, venturis, and emulsion tubes are in his 45s (unless he sent those carbs with the motor). Ask what mods are done to the header and Y pipe. Find out as much as you can about his tune.

Again, YOU CANNOT EXTRAPOLATE ENGINE HORSEPOWER FROM CHASSIS DYNO NUMBERS! Period. End of sentence. My example above was done to show you that. The same engine that consistently and repeatedly made 325 hp on a SAE and SCCA Pro Racing tested and certified engine dyno was all over the frickin' map on chassis dynos. Anyone who tells you 20% drivetrain loss "is a good number to go with" is ignorant.

Rebello engine dyno numbers tend to be on the high side. Other are on the low side. My Sunbelt race engine from 2001 made 325hp on Sunbelt's engine dyno and anywhere from 265 to 294 hp on various chassis dynos - with no changes to the EMS, ignition or fuel maps, fuel quality, etc.

Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. 3 to 4 psi.

Make sure the top of the Koni shock is held securely in place. The shock relies on the gland nut to properly position the upper seal. Not a great design because if the gland nut comes loose the seal fails.

Could be. Koni and Bilstein also changed some of their part numbers back in 2008.

Send the bill to yourself for not making sure the part numbers were correct with the vendor your purchased them from.

If it's off the engine just use acetone and rag.

My dealings with Jim were back in 2000 and 2001 and, although slow and somewhat poor communicating, he did deliver. I even went to his shop in 2001 and tried to help his then current manager help organize things. I have not talked with Jim in a while (since he started at GMG) and don't know whats up with him. He will eventually resurface. Check into small claims court in the state where you sent the payment and the engine.