johnc

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Search this site for customer feedback on Showcar. Its not pretty.

We need to look at our server capacity and how that query will affect response time. Its probably no big deal, but its another thing on the list of "things to do."

I don't understand the oil pump/rack mount issue. I moved my L6 back 4" and dropped it 2" and it was tight, but the oil pump cleared the anti-roll bar and rack fine. Are your stock engine mounts collpased?

Nissan never made stock 280Z that weighed 2,800lbs. Not even the automatic 2 + 2s.

Recommendations: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1458/Longacre_Pyrometers http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1454/Longacre_Pyrometers

I use both. The probe type gives true indication of tread temps and is the most useful and accurate when setting up a car for a specific track. Once I have a track setup logged, I use the IR temp sensor to quickly verify the setup on a return visit to the same track. The IR sensors are also helpful in diagnosing brake problems, finding dead cylinders, or checking trans and diff temps. So, you need both

As with anything on a car, its all about the tuning done after the part is installed. Just bolting on a 4bbl carb, SUs, or FI will give mixed results. Its the work done after that makes or breaks the setup. A well tuned 4bbl carb setup is better then a poorly tuned FI setup and vice-versa.

I've seen computers placed in watertight metal boxes in the cowl of a S30 with the laptop connection run through a small hole in the passenger compartment side of firewall and the main engine harness connector mounted on the engine side of the firewall. Looked real clean.

Nice car Yasin. Looking forward to see it run, but go buy the right size T-bolt clamps!

Head hurts, not thinking about old Z race cars anymore.

I very briefly owned a '52 Special 4 door.

Thinking about selling the 350Z and buying this car.... Maybe I should go into the shop and hit myself in the head with a ball peen hammer :bonk:

Yes and no. The Frissell car looks similar but has a lot of chassis changes that are not obvious (front strut towers moved back as one example). They generally "look" the same, but underneath they are all different.

http://www.buicks.net/racing/l8_performance.html http://gamma.nic.fi/~marlin/Rmaster.htm

A lot depends on material choice. I would not run caliper brackets made out of 6061. I would be very comfortable running caliper brackets made out of 7075.

1fast Z and 2eighTZ4me, You guys are arguing about two different things (valve stem height and spring installed height). Agree on one and the continue your discussion.

Its actually much harder to build power under a restrictive set of rules then it is when there are no rules at all. Remember, the best ITS 2.4L L6 engines made 208hp on a SAE certified engine dyno using unmodified engine internals, block, and head. It took hundreds of man hours to go from 190hp to 200hp and then a bunch more work to get to 208hp.

1 Cool engine and I really like that you didn't put a SBC in it. I'm betting you and Tony have also talked about a LSR run with the car...

That would be a good thing because now Mark's got the suspension to actually do some suspending! He's back in the ballpark.

As Jon posted above. 1. Your shocks are set way too stiff. 3 or 4 max for the springs you have. I would try 3 front and 2 rear to start with. 2. Your bump stops are too long. Next time the struts are apart, cut those MSA urethane bumpstops down to 3/4". 3. 225/50-16s are tall tires (24.7"). I suggest you raise the ride height of your car 1.25" all around. That 5" ride height discussed in context of good handling S30s relates to the ITS minumum ride height rule and its for cars running 225/50-14 tires which are 22.8" tall. Make changes 1 and 3 before your next event and then report back here. If you can make change 2, all the better.

I don't think we would want to spam our entire membership for something like this.

I watched again and I really think the main problem is a pitch control. The car gets bouncing front to back and I think your foot bounces in sync on the gas pedal. Are you spring rates the same? What settings are the Tokico's on? What are your air pressures? The car seems very stiff and bound up. There doesn't seem to be much compliance in the suspension, its not absorbing the bumps and transmitting even small suspension movements into the sprung weight.

I watched the video a few times and here are some things I noticed: 1. You car seems to have a pitch problem where the front seems to porpoise or bounce. It appears you have too much compression damping in the front shocks or not enough rebound damping and you can hear the front tires chirp under braking as you go over bumps and paint stripes. Or, is the car on its bump stops under braking? 2. You're lifting the inside rear wheel and the Quaife is going open for a second. Listen for a whirring sound inside the car which is a very characteristic sound from a Quiafe when it goes open. 3. Is the bumping/pitching causing you're right foot to move on the gas pedal? How far do you want to go with the suspension tuning? Here's what I'm thinking: 1. Bump the springs rates up all around to 300 front and 250 rear. 2. Upgade to Koni or Bilstien shocks which drop the compression damping and give more rebound control. 3. Run a 1" front ARB and a 5/8" adjustable rear ARB. 4. Don't change wheels and tires, stick with what you have for now.

Its here to stay but the participation level is still in flux. Drifting has actually been around here in California for over 10 years but it was only in the last 5 years that the automotive press found out about it. A reverse example: Autocross is huge nationwide but you never see it on TV or in the press.