johnc

You can download the SCCA GCR free from their web site. The pertinent section is "9.4 Roll Cages for GT and Production Based Cars" and it starts on page 93. The minimum allowable tubing sizes (as of 2008) are: 0 to 1700 lbs (without driver) - 1.375" OD x .095" wall. 1701 - 2699 lbs (without driver) - 1.5" OD x .095" wall. 2700 lbs and up (without driver) - 1.75" OD x .095" wall. If the tubing used is .250" larger in OD then required, the wall thickness can be reduced to .080".

.92 average error first time... but I put rulers and protractors up on the computer screen.

Just drive it and keep the rpms low and don't give it too much throttle. If a cops stops you, tell him you're going to the muffler shop.

Simple Greeen or Mineral Spirits. Being a business, the fire marshals are less grumpy if I use Simple Green.

I don't see how you're going to get your classed in GT-1. Even if you did, 365hp is about 60% of what you need to be competitive in GT-1.

Thanks to all who have and are serving. Here's a link that shows to what extent these folks go just to save one civilian: http://www.navytimes.com/news/2008/11/military_air_rescue_110708w/ And a picture of my nephew who's somewhere in Central Asia right now.

I really did have that square wheeled trike. I called it the "Nut Buster." It got really painful on steep downhills.

That was an early prototype. The latest is here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/ulrs.html

Here's a summary of what I was taught about home defense by a number of police officers, firearms trainers, and district attorneys: 1. Have a safe place that everyone can get to quickly and with a minimum amount of travel throughout the house. It should have only one entry and some sort of barrier to hide behind and offer some protection (a mattress works). 2. That safe place needs a charged cell phone (our cell phone chargers are in our safe place) and a plugged in landline. 3. The safe place needs to be dark and you should have a very bright flashlight that can be shined at the one entry. 4. The safe place should also have a Freon air horn or other load noisemaker. You want to be able to wake the neighbors. 5. That safe place should also have a gun of some kind if the family is OK with it. If someone breaks in, get the whole family into the safe place. Have one person call 911. Set the flashlight up so it illuminates the entry but is not being held by someone. You want to kill the intruder's night vision and make it hard to see into the safe place. Preferably, its off to one side so if the intruder shoots at the light, its not endangering anyone. Shout to the intruder that the police and the neighbors are coming. Blast the air horn. Setup with the gun and get ready in case the intruder comes through the entry. "Being a badass and walking through the house racking your shotgun will generally get you dead with an unfired shotgun lying next to you." - Sgt. Lou Castillo, LAPD SWAT.

Yes. One of the Quaifes I had was preloaded by Taylor-Race a bit but the other wasn't. I ended up making enough suspension adjustments that it really didn't matter. I was one of those stubborn guys that didn't want to adjust the car to the diff. Once I got over that, things went a lot better.

I've always though that this combination would be great in a DD 240Z. Looks like a nice install.

225/50-15s on an 8" wide wheel is about perfect for a stock fendered 240Z.

You can also use a thinner wall tube with stainless to save some weight.

I'll list exactly what my setup was: FRONT 300 lb. in springs. Penske 8760 triples. 23mm or 25mm ARB depending on the track. 16 x 10 wheels. 275/45-16 Hoosier R4s. 1/4" to 3/4" wheels spacers depending on the track. 28mm bumpsteer spacers. Monoballed LCA and TC rods. REAR 325 to 375 lb. in. springs. Penske 8760 triples. 16mm or 19mm ARB depending on the track. 16 x 10 wheels. 275/45-16 Hoosier R4s. No wheel spacers. Offset monoballed LCA inners. Quaife HLSD. The wheel spacer and ARB combination were used primarily to get the power down in the back and adjustments were made to keep as much rotation as possible in the car while keeping the inside rear wheel planted. At the time neither I nor my co-driver could stand driving a Z that didn't rotate well. That comes from learning to race a Z with a welded diff. The shocks were our biggest tuning tool and allowed a spring setup that naturally goes against what a Quaife likes. It worked.

No. Stop worrying about it.

Measuring, cutting, machining, welding, plumbing, loosening, tightening, cleaning, painting, cussing, and testing.

You'll be very happy with the SIG. I also have a SIG P226 in 9mm and its a nice shooting gun and would be my carry gun, if I carried. Its the gun we take on camping trips because my wife can shoot it with smaller hands and its a no brainer, "Honey, point it at the bad guy and pull the trigger 15 times."

As others are posting, if its a real 327/365hp block and head combination its worth a lot of money to the Corvette guys. Check the block and head numbers to verify and hopefully the block has never been decked. The original broaching lines on the serial number pad add something to the value of the engine. I'm not an expert but I think the engine serial number should have either an "F" or "T" after the seven digit serial number followed by "HK", "HL", "HM", or "RE" if its a 327/365.

Rear rotors are the same. The non-Brembo brakes on the 350Z were upgraded from Altima parts to previous generation Q45 parts for 2006. These upgraded brakes are fine for track events and I ran them for over 6 hours of track time last year at the Cal Speedway Roval. I'll be out again 11/23 for the Nissan Performance Festival testing a few other suspension/brake mods to my 350Z. One thing to watch for with the Brembo setup is pad knockback. Get in the habit of tapping the brake pedal before any big braking section on track.

Years ago, when my 240Z was in an autocross configuration (BSP) I was able to do almost exactly what you list above. N42 block 1mm overbore. N42 head milled to the max OEM limit. Stock 260 Z "C" cam. Dished pistons. SU carbs. Nissan Motorsports 1 5/8" Headers. 2.5" exhaust. 4 speed. 3:54 gears. 225/50-15 tires on 15 x 8 wheels. 185 horsepower, 23 mpg towing a small tire trailer at 70 mph. It would also do the 1/4 mile in 13.9 and do a lap around WSIR in 1:33.xxx.

Cheaper to buy the bends and piece it together.

You're not crazy. They are significantly shorter then stock.

I saw you on Google Earth. You need to wear your hat.

Wing angle of attack is relative to the ground unless you have some airflow data to show otherwise (pretty rare). You'll need to know where the wing stalls (usually provided by the wing manufacturer or you can find the calculation on the internet) and then set the angle of attach just below, that. Then, during testing at each track, you reduce the angle of attack to get the best compromise between top speed and downforce. Most standard wing brackets won't work on the rear hatch of a 240Z. Oh, and yes, the wing is mounted backwards.

You also need to check the weight numbers you're using. A dressed L24 comes in at 390 lbs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246 From my own "lifting" the Type B 4 speed weighs around 65 lbs.