johnc

Backpressure has been discussed ad nauseam on this site and many others. Search is your friend.

Be grateful those items were not spread out over successive track events.

Don't freak, the car is fine. You want the car square and level and not resting on the parts you're trying to replace. Carefully jack the car up and place the jackstands under the rocker panels (assuming theya re in good condition) in front and back and then lever the car again, measuring at the rocker panels. Place you're 5th jackstand under the front crossmember with just a light load on it.

The tests were done, at least the one I witnessed, back in the mid 1990s as part of a tuning effort for L6 engine running in SCCA's ITS class. The person that did the testing I witnessed was Javier at JG Engine Dynamics (now JG Edelbrock). Keith Thomas, Chet Whittle, and Jim Thompson (of Sunbelt Racing Engines) did their own series of tests in early part of this century and came to similar conclusions. The Stahl and the Nissan Motorsports headers did show a horsepower advantage over the stock exhaust manifold and all other aftermarket headers. FYI... the headers helped blueprinted "stock" L6 2.4L engines that made from 185 to 205 horsepower on certified engine dynos.

You guys all need to re-read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_law_of_thermodynamics

If you put 240Z springs and insulators on your 280Z, the ride height at the rear of your car is too low. The 280Z chassis has the strut tower sheet metal slightly higher in the chassis and it requires the longer 280Z rear struts, the 280Z specific rear insulator, and slightly different length rear springs. Put 280Z parts on your 280Z. Alternatively you can cut the front springs to get the ride height level.

A number of Datsun racers here in the US have actually tested the factory exhaust manifolds on the L24/26/28 and they are very good. They are generally better then most header designs (excluding the Nissan Motorsport and the Stahl) for engines that are running less then 280 duration cams and/or have no headwork.

Happy Braapday.

I use a strap wrench. If you have a 3/8" drive impact gun it makes it a lot easier. Hopefully you haven't stripped the threads on top of the shock. A last resort option is to get a wrench in the coils and loosen/remove the gland nut. That will let you pull the shock and spring off of the strut.

Mount your intercooler with quick release fasteners on the mounting itself and the pumbing. Buy ten identical intercoolers. Before your drag racing day, submerge the each in water making sure you don't get any water inside the unit. Freeze them into a solid block of ice. At the track, swap to a new frozen block of ice cooler before each run. You'll probably need a diaper under the cooler to keep from dripping on the track. That would probably be easier and less expensive then making the refirdgeration unit you're describing above

It went that fast with better drivers then me driving it. Art Singer from Sport Z was riding in the car when Erik Messley ran a couple consecutive 1:27s. With me behind the wheel at WSIR I never went faster then mid 1:30s.

The handling on the Porsche was screwed up. At the last WSIR Speedventures event I attended a box stock Porsche 997GT3 on street tires was turning easy 1:32s with a good shoe driving.

I did years ago and got great service from Mike. I don't know if he's still doing business. You can always send him and e-mail through his web site and ask.

I ran a few on my racing 240Z and gave up on them. As Keith posted they are designed for high rpm (above 7,500 rpm) racing applications and are a required maintenance item. They often need to be replaced as often as a race clutch is replaced (at least annually). I've still got two or three around the shop somewhere if anyone wants one - Nissan part number 32202-09500 Bearing Needle.

You don't need a relief valve if you change the oil and clean your filter regularly. Remove and plug as you stated. The repercussions are little to no oil filtration or cooling if the relief valve trips too low.

A good working Type B 4 speed is worth $100. There are still lots of guys that road race the 4 speed.

Yes.

Pull all the good parts off that car and send the shell to a junkyard. Your rockers and the front frame rails are shot. The chassis is junk.

Take the rear cover off and read the tooth count numbers stamped in the ring gear.

Yup. I didn't know I was an Opel tuner, but what the hell! I need to send Frank some new stickers.

When I saw the title and you as the author on this thread, I thought the show would be Cops Congratulations on being a Euro Celeb.

Tire design and tread compound have more to do with ultimate grip then width. A 255 width DOT-R tire will be considerably faster around a race track then a 275 width 150 treadwear street tire.

For the whole car its going to take some time to find the right buyer. If you're willing to take the time, then that's probably the best option. You must keep in mind that what your car is worth is different from what it will sell for. I couldn't sell the Rusty Old Datsun complete (although it was a more specialized car then yours) mostly because is scared the two different guys who test drove it at Buttonwillow. I ended up parting it out. That process took six months and a lot of effort on my end to strip, clean, package/crate, and ship the various components. I ended up grossing about 15% more then the full package price but it was a net loss based on the time and effort I put in. One benefit of parting the car out, you never worry about someone having trouble with it and calling back. And every year the car gets faster and faster as I bore everyone with stories about it

A 275 width tire should be more then enough for your car and it will fit very nicely on a 10.5" wide wheel.

Do your best to avoid using segment bends. They add a lot of turbulence and flow separation to the exhaust and increase internal pressure over a mandrel bend.