johnc

Unfortunately my welders are all single phase so one leg gets hit harder then the others. I've spread out the other electrical loads (compressor, band saw, lathe, charger, etc.) on the other legs.

I spent a lot of time talking with an SCE repair tech and a local IBEW trained contractor and both say there isn't such a thing as a phase issue as I've described it. The SCE tech says that his company does nothing special with the power to prevent power theft other then to make the meters harder to remove and impossible to flip. My recurring problem is lugs that loosen over time due to the expansion and contraction of the different metals involved (copper, brass, steel, and aluminum). About every 6 to 9 months (when I remember) I go out to the main panel and tighten the lugs to try and prevent this problem. I may need to do it more often especially when welding a lot of aluminum.

For the second time in three years I've burned up one leg of the three phase power from the meter to the main breaker to my shop. The complex management will make the repair on their nickel but I was just told that there might be a phase problem between the secondary panel that supplies power to my TIG welder and the main power feeds into the shop. Being an electrical idiot I've done the Interent search thing (no, I haven't searched Hybridz ) but haven't come up with much to help me figure out the problem. I plan on hiring an electrician to correct the problem but I want to understand how the three legs can be out of phase with the power coming fro SCE? Seems that SCE has some method of grounding or phasing that prevents people from stealing power and it requires some kind of grounding back through the three main power leads????? Here are the basics: 208v/100 amp service 3 phase. 100 amp 3 pole breaker from the meter to the shop. Secondary panel in the shop gets 100amps 3 phase and has a 70 amp single phase breaker to the TIG welder. Heavy aluminum welding (200amps AC) over an extended period will burn out one leg on the feed from the meter to the 100amp main shop breaker and then trips the 100amp breaker. The 70amp breaker does not trip - in fact, no breakers in the shop trip. Just the same leg that goes from the meter to the main shop 100amp breaker and its in a central panel on the building, 50 yards from my shop. Any ideas or suggestions on how to determine is something is out of phase?

I talked with Jason Isley two days ago (he's on the SEB) and what's published for Solo2 is completely wrong. Someone took the list of items out for member comment and mis-labeled them as out to the BoD for approval. He's hoping to get a correction published ASAP.

String shows flow, not pressure.

You've got tons of data there from tire rack - plenty to make an informed decision. What do you need from us?

Listen to the fuel expert. At 13.6 to 1 I was running 112 (r+m/2) leaded. The combustion chambers in our cars are not the best.

It doesn't really matter. I run the filter first so that junk from the engine doesn't get into the thermostat or cooler.

So... how soon are you going to sell it and start another project... Very nice car!

Having removed at least 30 spindle pins here's what I do: 1. Assume the spindle pins are junk. 2. Spray penetrant (Mopar MS3613 is the best) in all possible joints and cracks that can lead to the spindle pin. 3. Remover the wedge pin. 4. Spray penetrant in the wedge pin hole. 5. Let soak for a day. 6. Tighten one of the spindle pin nuts about 1/2 turn if possible then remove that nut. 7. Tighten the other spindle pin nuts about 1/2 turn if possible and then back that nut out until only a thread or two holds it on the pin. 8. Get your air hammer out and put a 3/8" pin tool on it. 9. Place on the end of the tool in the spindle pin the cup made by the backed out nut. 10. Hammer away. Never been defeated yet and its never taken me more the 3 minutes to remove a spindle pin once I squeeze the trigger on the air hammer.

That's called "bottoming."

Unfortunately, without the front structure that comes with a proper roll cage, the front mounting points for your door bars make the bars dangerous in a side impact. What's going to keep the front of the door bars from bending inward, breaking the seat, and crushing your legs during the impact as the floor pan crumples? Remember, drag racing style roll bars/cage are not designed to handle hard side impact. They are designed for single car accidents.

I build roll cages for a living. I will not put a full cage in a car that's driven by an un-helmeted driver. A 1.75" OD x .095" wall tube will not give when your head hits it and concentrates the impact force into a 1 to 2 square inch area. Have a friend hit you over the head with a piece of roll bar tubing swung as fast and as hard as he can. He may be able to swing that tube at 50 mph if he's a major league ball player.

Although I've not used Motodelta's product I have raced cars with Polycarbonate windshields and windows. Scratch resistant really isn't. Clean the window with paper towels and Windex and you've got very fine scratches. Over time these build up and create a haze that can be polished out. Once you polish, the anti-fog coating is gone. For a street car I would never run Polycarbonate windows. For a race car, where I expect to have to replace the windows every couple years, the added hassle is worth the weight reduction.

You need some vertical supports for the strut tops. That's where the vehicle weight is carried and as currently built in the pictures, the strut tops will punch through the hood in short order. Square tubing will work and is used in a number of spec race cars. Think triangles, lots of them.

Those gland nuts remove about 2" of shock travel. So, if a typical 240Z shock has 6" of travel, those gland nuts leave the car with 4" of travel by positioning the shock at the bottom of the strut tube. I don't understand why anyone would want to do that.

Yes you are. You can now play with sharp things.

Positive is typical. You want to stop all power from flowing through the car in case something grounds in a wreck.

When I first started BetaMotorsports I did piece rate production TIG welding for SP Tools at my shop. I would weld for two hours at a time then take a ten minute break and no lunch. Did this for ten hours every day, six days a week. When I went home at night my head felt like it was stuffed with cotton and I couldn't focus my eyes on anything further away then 10 feet. I did the math once, at 4 inches per minute welding speed I welded about 330 feet each day - basically a football field of TIG weld bead. Over a 1/3 of a mile each week.

Illuminas with stock springs can actually be a harsh ride. They work better with stiffer springs (at least 25% stiffer then stock). What happens is the shaft speeds get way up there on minor bumps which gets into the progressive compression damping that the Illuminas have.

Happy Birthday Rick.

I welded for 3 years with an air cooled torch. For longer weld times I wore a big, thick glove. For a home hobbyist an air cooled torch is fine. Most folks can't TIG weld for 30 minutes straight.

All the horsepower of the Datsun 1200 with 650 lbs. more weight.

MSA sells them but the price is about the same. Its actually a reasonable price considering the quality and how ell they work on the L6.

What problems?