johnc

Stop, put the tools down, and back away from the car. Go and buy a shop or a service manual for your car.

One thing to watch for is how vigorously the flagger is waving the yellow flag. If the flagger is freaking out and waving the flag like he's fighting off a swarm of bees, you better be ready to stop because there's most likely a car(s) stopped on track right in front of you.

Happy birthday.

Oops, forgot about the weight differences between SM and SM2. A SR20 swapped 240Z fully prepped to SM2 should come in between 2,050 and 2,150 lbs. You'll have to ballast up to the minimum weight, which isn't too bad a thing.

Great looking car. It took me a second to figure out what that swirly thing was on the front of the car in the first picture...

I don't think it would much (if any) of an advantage over the 240SX in SM. You still have to hit the same weight number and a 2,400 lbs. 240Z is a heavy autocross 240Z. You would have to add ballast.

Happy Birthday and good luck tomorrow. If you find yourself running out of talent (like I do all the time), just plant your right root to the floor and steer.

Wait, I'm confused. Are you asking our opinions about swapping a L28ET or a CA18DET into a 240SX?

Straight 20w is fine. Some run 30w, some run 10w, some run trans fluid, some run Marvel Mystery Oil, some run their own home brews.

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com and order this part number: 5373A23 Its what I use at least every week on 240Z struts.

http://www.ricerforums.com/

Its a basic off road utility truck like the old Land Rovers, Land Cruisers, and Jeeps. A step up from a tractor. Later Patrols got much nicer.

First, let the part cool completely after welding. Use a torch with a rosebud tip and get a 900F temperature crayon (Tempilstik). Mark each side of each welded joint with the crayon 1" from the weld. Use the torch to heat a joint until the crayon marks melt. Cover the joint with a heat blanket or something to slow the cooling process down. Proceed to the next joint. If you're really anal, heat all the joints equally and at the same time before letting the part cool down. What you're trying to accomplish is to relieve any stress buildup and resulting distortion from the welding process. EDIT: Before you go through all of this, you can take the part out of the welding jig and see how much distortion exists. If its just a little bit, I probably wouldn't worry about stress relieving the part.

Is the jig you have on the bench your welding fixture? That part needs to be tightly bolted in place before welding and a stress relieving step after welding and before unbolting would be a good idea.

Larger diameter = more material = more strength. I don't see the confusion here. Obviously Nissan engineers saw a potential for failure in the heavier 280Z using the 25 spline 240Z stub axles. They developed a solution that was some percent stronger and it reduced the potential for failure to a level they could accept. IMHO... most stub axles failures are at the fusion weld where the flange meets the stub axle. I've seen 8 over the years in 240Zs that have been road raced (as predicted by fastzcars )

Go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401 Then strip your car down and check the measurements.

A lot depends of whether you want an "e-brake" or a "parking brake." If you want an e-brake then I would personally use an OEM setup (Mustang, 240SX, or something else). If you want a parking brake, there are a number of mechanical spot calipers available that will do the job.

A good source for the hard to find class 10.9 M10 and M12 1.25p nuts and bolts used on the chassis of a S30 is Tacoma Screw Products.

Set it at the factory lash spec.

Maybe the lane stripes are longer in Germany, but it looked like the skater was only going about 35 to 40 mph.

I run my under prepared Nissan 350Z locally in BSP - against Tom Berry, Marshall Grice, and Christine Berry in their all conquering Vishnu prepared Evo. I have no chance in hell, for now. You just have to get used to these kinds of situations. They won't last forever and you'll get your moment.

The spring scale device is something I use based on something I remember seeing in a FSM of some kind (maybe not Nissan). If I earlier implied that it was in a S30 FSM, I apologize.

Its got a basic large displacement pushrod 6. Revs to 5,000 rpm but that's really not necessary. I owned a Patrol just like this one when I lived in Lake Tahoe. Top speed was 45 mph, its was loud, rough riding, cold in the winter and hot in the summer. It could climb anything until the carb flooded and then you better look over your shoulder and start steering because the brakes wouldn't hold it on a steep hill.

We used to have that and the forums had almost no activity. I suggest you start a thread in the Non-Tech or Events forum and have your local folks post in that.

Along the lines of Tony's story, during the mid 1960s my Uncle was doing some of his post-basic Army training in Fort Rucker. One afternoon he and his buddies caught a Bobcat and tried to keep it as a pet. After lots of bites and scratches they decided someone else needed this angry, aggressive, lighting fast creature as their pet. So, they got a suitcase and put the Bobcat in it (after many more bites and scratches). The took the suitcase into Enterprise and laid it in the street at an intersection in town while they sat on a bench and waited. After a very short time an old Bonneville with four men inside drove by and stopped at the suitcase. The right rear passenger opened the door, got out, looked around, grabbed the suitcase, and tossed it inside. The proceeded down the road about 50 yards and then all four wheels locked up and the car skidded sideways to a stop. In the exact same instant all four doors flew open and four men rolled out onto the ground, jumped up, and started running - two were bleeding from their hands. The car slowly rolled forward and stopped when it hit a lamp post. A few seconds later a Bobcat hopped out of the front seat, sat on the ground, licked his paws, and trotted off through a field.