johnc

Racers have been using springs like that to hold slip jointed headers and collectors together since the 1940s. They allow everything to expand an contract and make it quick and easy to R&R the exhaust components. They springs do "ring" at certain rpms and often, when you're removing or replacing them, they shoot out of your pliers and hide under things.

I'm not upset, that's why I put the smiley on my reply. I get a few calls each week from people seeking advice and I help them as best I can. I often get calls from other businesses selling to the Z market and I try to help them too. If they buy from me, great. If not, hopefully the next time they will think of me and BetaMotorsports. Its important that folks support the few vendors that focus on the early Z market. Buying from me, MSA, Vildini, Sunrise Z, Black Dragon, etc. helps us all out by keeping vendors around that are willing to invest time and effort in creating new stuff for Datsuns. Sometimes spending a couple extra dollars with smaller vendors helps out five years down the road when parts for old Datsuns are still available.

Actually, no. Matt called me and we talked for about 10 minutes about which shocks, springs, etc. for his SR20DET 240Z. He said he would be by the shop that day before I closed to buy some HPs.

That's the difference between a parts dealer and someone who actually builds the cars. You got exactly the pre-sales support you paid for. I guess you got lost on the way up to my shop that day...

I charge anywhere from $400 to $1,000 for an exhaust - not including the muffler. Turbo cars are usually a bit cheaper because you don't need a merge collector like below: Does anyone think you can get something like this from a muffler shop for $300?

Looks like a nice part.

There's always... me: http://www.betamotorsports.com. Doing a 2JZGTE swap right now.

Another alternative is Evans NPG. I know a few NASA AIX guys that run it in their 5L Mustangs and it pretty much cured the cooling system issues they had on the track. I have not personally used the stuff. http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

Owen's still alive! Hi Owen!

If the smooth part of the bar lightly touches the CV boot at full droop then I wouldn't worry a whole lot. Put some grease on the top of the bar where it might touch the boot and keep an eye on it. You can put droop limiting straps on the suspension that would keep the above from happening. Alternatively you can space the anti-roll bar back as far as possible and shorten the ends to bring the LCA mounting point behind the CV. This will stiffen the bar by some amount. Also, check to be sure the bar is not binding the rear suspension due to the short length of the end links. You may have to just remove it and run bigger rear springs and a bigger front anti-roll bar.

Exactly! It depends on each individual car and swap! The weight difference and weight distribution difference between a NA L6 that's been moved back and down in the engine compartment and a good SR20DET install is on the order of a 100lbs. and 1%. Where some of the misconceptions regarding the SR20DET sawp come in is comparing a swapped and modified SR20 install with the owners original, all stock L6 setup. Comparing a stock 240Z with a L6 to a modified 240Z with a SR20DET misleading.

Noob!

Different strokes. One day I plan to do a "to the letter" restoration of a series 1 240Z. The fun in that kind of effort is the hunt for the parts and making everything perfect.

If you just need small pieces and are willing pick the stuff out yourself, Unicorn Metals in La Habra. Metal Sales Yard 490 E. Lambert Rd. La Habra, CA 90631 Between Cypress and Harbor on the south side of Lambert. If you need lots of metal: Schorr Metals: http://www.schorrmetals.com/index.html

That's an odd statement.

Shocks have little to no affect on ride height. The car will sit at the same with HPs or Illuminas.

I've owned two W126 chassis S class Mercedes (1986 420SEL, 1989 560SEL) and both were fantastic cars. The 420SEL was repair free for the 5 years I owned it except for cam chain replacement at 120K and HIVAC control unit replacement at 135K. Both repairs were expensive and the last one was the reason I sold the 420 and bought the 560. The 560 was repair free but circumstances required selling it after about a year. Budget about $2,000 per year for repair and maintenance on an older Mercedes. Per the folks at Burce Strauss in Costa Mesa the last good S class was the W126 chassis. The W140 and later S class models began the decline of Mercedes that continues to this day.

Stupid is as stupid does.

Had that happen to the cylinder 5 in the ROD but the seat blew apart and I found most of it in the intake manifold. The cause was very slight detonation in that cylinder. What caused the detonation was a localized hot spot in the cylinder. This is a well known issue for high cylinder pressure L6 engines. What cured the problem for my car was increasing the cooling system pressure to 28 psi to reduce nucleate boiling at that point.

He needs to learn how to be the Master of His Domain. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Contest "I'm out!"

Nope. Search.

Stuck and linked.

My 240Z hit 101db measured at Buttonwillow, 50' away, while accelerating hard through 3rd gear.

Read up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104720 If you've installed a SR20DE (not a DET) then you've probably pulled 150lbs. out of the car and moved the weight distirbution back about 2%. This might affect the rake of the car but, since you're on a tight budget, the only way to find out is to install the springs and see.

I meant 18" downstream of the last merge collector. The numbers I quoted were for a NA engine.