johnc

6 to 8 hours from start to finish (uncluding seam sealer and paint) to install the BD subframe connectors on the three cars I've done.

BD subframes are nice and well made. I just installed a set on a customer's car that had some pretty messed up pans and front rails. I used the BD subframes to get things lined up properly.

How soon they forget... I just installed a set on a customer's car and its more work then you think, especially if the underside has had a rough life. Remember to thoroughly clean off the underside of the car, strip the interior, and keep an eye on the sound deadener on the inside of the car when welding. It can catch fire and burn for a short time. Also, if you burn a hole through to the interior the melted sound deadener drips out and screws up the weld.

Put it behind you and start looking forward. Any energy you spend now trying to fight the company (and you'll loose) is wasted. Focus on your new business or trying to find a new job.

Exhaust temp is exhaust temp regardless of the type of aspiration. If you're seeing temps over 1,400 degrees in the exhaust ports you have some serious problems in the combustion chamber and some stuff flaking off the ports or the exhaust liners is the least of your concerns.

The last one I got: "Hi John..."

Thanks again for all the hard work. Wish I could have been there to help. Maybe the next run. I'm already thinking about ways to get some of the more beneficial aero mods past the tech inspectors.

Whooo Hooo! Thanks guys!

Its not a "problem" per se, its how the springs are deisgned to work. Progressive springs are desigend to coil bind until the higher rates are reached (as Tim described above). The coil bound springs are there to keep the spring from rattling around at full droop. Also, as Tim described, lowering a 240Z reduces the amount of bump travel available in the suspension by the amount of lowering. Any lowering more then 1.5" will require strut shortening to get back an adequate amount of bump travel and keep the car off the bump stops. What spring rate are the Tein springs?

Exactly! If you're on a budget, spend the money on chassis and suspension. There are lots of 175hp 240Zs out there that will humiliate much more powerful cars on a race track. Probably as many 150hp 510s doing the same thing.

Shoudl I just close this thread now or wait to see how bad the N42/P90 debate gets?

The angle from level of the control arms is normally not called rake. If the angles are parallel between the upper and lower arms (viewed from the side) that's done to get the desired caster and is referred to as caster. If the angles are not parallel between the upper and lower arms then the suspension has some type of dive control (either anti or pro dive) and is generally referred to as anti-dive. It adds a very small some amount of bind. In most cases its less then the binds induced by the suspension bushing so on a road car its not a concern. Same as for caster unless there is anti-dive. Anti dive increases the bind in the suspension and its a tradeoff between anti-dive and compliance until spring rates get to a racing car levels. Then in most cases all anti-dive is removed from the suspension because the springs are stiff enough to take over that chore.

For some autocross cars (mostly FWD) toe out in the rear is used to promote a small amount of instability and get the car to rotate easier. Its not a good idea on a RWD car bcause it affects power application. Basically with rear toe out on a RWD car you have to wait until the outside rear tire is starting to unload before adding power. Rear toe out will help a RWD car get into a corner but it delays when and limits how much power can be applied coming out of the corner, which ultimately slows you course times in the funny world of autocross.

The car laso had a centeral post and pivot that was driven down by an electric motor onto a pad on the ground. In the engine compartment was a boat trailer jack with wheels on the bottom and an electric motor. With the center pivot down the car could be spun in a circle using the powered boat trailer jack. The builder and owner (Seb?) is the same guy who swapped in a VQ35DE from a 350Z into a 240Z and made a 4wd 240Z. He is the ultimate HybridZ'er.

"I think" its about .5 degree for each .125" thick spacer.

40 to 60 micron should be fine.

http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html

Bartman on this site did a plastic fuel tank out of a Camaro (I think) and I was able to route a dual exhaust around it. He has a web site with a bunch of pictures and a writeup.

Stop by the MSA autocross driving school on Saturday and I'll give you a ride in the Tree-Fiddy-Z.

+1 for Red Barchetta. Saw Rush perform it live a few times and they actually had a red 1968 Alpha Barchetta (Spider) on stage during one performance.

Not safe to assume...

Thugz, Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860 And then read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116670 The complete strut kits I sell work very well on the 240Z. Lots of SCCA, VARA, HSR, and NASA races have been won using my setups. They are comparable to the Tein, JIC, and other JDM setups sold for other cars except for the shock valving. Here in California and generally on the west coast we need softer compression damping because of the bumpy tracks. I have yet to see a JDM shock that works better on a California race track then a Koni or a Bilstien. The JDM stuff works fine for a street car but they aren't winning many sanctioned wheel-to-wheel races.

The difference between the Tokico Illumina BZ3015 (240Z front) and BZ3016 (240Z rear) is a 2" spacer stuck on the bottom of the BZ3016. Same is true for the HPs.

I think you answered your own question.

A 300hp 350 doesn't need a super trick exhaust. Your 1 7/8" pipes are fine as long as they run back to a nice merge or "Y" pipe and then a 3" single exhaust to the muffler and out the back.