johnc

Tony answered for me. In my case it was a lift throttle at the start finish line at Willow. Took the checquer, lift off the gas at 6900 rpm, looked at the gauges, and saw oil pressure drop to zero. Clutch in, hit the kill switch, coast to a stop between 1 and 2, wait for the tow truck. The NAPA in Lancaster had a pump and we were racing again in 2.5 hours. Figured out the issue when I got back to the shop and made the mods I mentioned.

Most cars moved away from inserts in the early 1990s. Its cheaper for the OEMs to make it all one unit (shocka nd strut) that bolts to the hubs. The main issue with the S30 is that the strut and hubs are all one unit. An aftermarket manufacturer would need a large and steady supply of cores to make something reasonably priced for our market. They just can't make them from scratch without having to charge $1,000 or more per corner. On the insert side you have Koni, Bilstien, KYB, and Tokico (maybe). That's actually a good selection and will meet the needs 99.9% of the owners of the cars. Camber plates, threaded collars, adjustable lower spring perches, upper spring perches, and springs are all readily avaialbe. You or someone you pay just has to put the package together on your car.

What do you mean by "giving more options?" You're can go out and source whatever shock you want and with proper fabrication you can adaprt that shock to the stock strut tubes or fabricate new struts tubes. I was able to (actually paid a Penske distributor) adapt Penske 8760 triple adjsutable shocks to my racing S30. You can do the same with Ohlins, Moton, etc. If you're asking a vendor to develop more options - show them the money. In my experience, very few Datsun guys will spnd more the $1,000 on shock and struts for their cars and I've problably sold to 75% of that market in the last 12 years.

The hinges will move up at speed without the torsion bars. Try just installing one.

An A-Arm with one leg pivoting at the point of the "A" is a bad idea.

Don is still making and selling the old Comp pan (he made them for Nissan Competition/Motorsports for decades). http://www.dpracing.co.

Set belt mountings are 7/16 x 20 per DOT requirements in the 1960s/1970s.

7 to 10 gph depending on state of tune. You will NOT be driving at 7/10s unless you want to get black flagged.

Where on the shaft for what?

Jeff's recommendations are a basic mod for any performance L6. On my NA 3L I also had a problem with the tangs on the oil pump drive snapping off. I did a little filing on the shaft tang and wrapped a strip of .015" brass aroung the shaft tang to act as a cushion and that solved the problem.

Correct info about John Caldwell although he still builds various engines from time-to-time. Before he closed shop in Vista a few years ago I was in there picking up a Viper engine for Erik at EMI Racing. There were half-a-dozen L6 blocks and heads on shelves. I asked John about them and he said, "Spares" and they are already spoken for.

Knowledge is worth money. Anyone willing to pay the experts for thier time? Not in the Datsun world. I flew to Georgia in 2000 and sat down with Jim Thompson for a couple hours, bought him lunch, a beer or two at happy hour, and gave him $100 to get his thoughts on a well built NA 3L engine. He said that I was the first and only Datsun guy to compensate him for his time answering questions. I still am. All of this knowledge was won with hard work, time, and money on the part of the folks that currently hold that knowledge. Its worth something.

You gear the car to hit redline in the highest gear at the start of the braking zone at the end of the longest straight. Then adjust the lower gears to minimuize the rpm drop coming out of the three most important corners on the track.

DOT specifies a specific color for many fluids used in vehicles. Blue wasn't one of the approved colors for brake fluid. ATE clear is just as good as blue.

Thanks for doing this!

Triple SUs can work if they dump into a plenum before going into the intake runners. Jaguar is one example of that working. But individual runner triples have the firing order issue listed above. Its been tried many, many times.

You do not have to stop at one of those checkpoints.

Absolutely the best rule written regarding roll cage construction: "3.1.2: Don't understand any of the above? See where it states "professionally made." You shouldn't be doing this yourself."

You guys have all the information you need to make your decisions regarding coilovers and sectioning. Please stop asking the same questions again and again.

Did you block the throttle wide open?

Check with Specialty Products Design.

Before the pump.

Borla XR1 Raceline.

Most likely. You're focusing the load on the small stich welds which can start a tear in the chassis sheet metal. A welded in plate needs to have a larger surface area and should be welded all around to spread the load. The plates on the bolt-in roll bars I've seen are really too small to be welded in. You can weld a larger plate to the chassis and then weld the bolt-in roll bar plate to that.

IMHO, bolt in roll bars/cages do more damage to a chassis then a properly welded in bar/cage. You're drilling 3/8" holes completely through the car in 8 to 16 places for a roll bar - those holes will be there forever even after the bar is removed. Adding a few welds the the bolted in mounting plates will make things worse because 1) you can't properly prepare the surfaces for welding without removing the bar to clean underneath, 2) bolted in bars rely on spreading the load to the material sandwiched between the mounting plates and welding will probably concentrate the load at the few welds - causing tearing.