myplasticegg

I learned stick on an 89 turbo/intercooled LeBarn 4 door. One of 256 ever made, it was a beast. Now I have to keep an auto car around for those days when my left knee isn't feeling up to par to holding the ole' clutch. 18 and already have an iffy knee...

the trick to taking turbos apart is to soak them in wd-40 for 2 or 3 days. If that dosen't work add heat and be sure that the wrenches are the right size and are square on the nuts. It is a PITA to have the bolts from the swingvalve snap off in the turbine housing!

A great intercooler for the money is a stock SRT-4 unit. If you're good, you can get them for $100 shipped from www.srtforums.com If you are going all out, get two of the, cut off the endtanks and weld them together to get something that will cool just as well but flow twice as well.

A great intercooler for the money is a stock SRT-4 unit. If you're good, you can get them for $100 shipped from www.srtforums.com If you are going all out, get two of the, cut off the endtanks and weld them together to get something that will cool just as well but flow twice as well.

If you're looking for a setup like that, pick one out of a TII dodge product. If you want a list of what they are in LMK and i'll hook you up.

Sorry to bring this post up from the dead, but there is a good solution to stop the boost spike. Install a restrictor after the grainger valve but before the wastegate nipple. The restrictor will let the extra air bleed out but still allow for the incomming boost to open the wastegate. The restrictor needs to be cleaned from time to time or have a small filter installed over it (cloth zip tied over it) If you need a pic LMK and i can find one. EDIT: the stock spring from grainger should be good for 18-20 PSI without modification.

2 small, 1 large

Ohhhh yeah... there was a study in the late 90's proving that the tips break off when they are under boost. FUN! champs or NKG's for me!

That's a bad bag of cookies you reached into there, sorry about that. Just remember... when your foot hits the floor, that turbo spools up and the guy in the S2000 beside you has the WTF? face on that it is all worth it. Just picture doing it in a minivan.

the metal that goes around the window on the driver side of my Z is cracked. I just noticed this today and i do not think that it has been around very long. Is there a way to fix this without it looking like complete crap? Is it going to be more work then it is worth to fix that part or just get a new one? I have a fairly limited budget (high school, keeping 3 cars on the road) but down time is not a problem. Thanks,

keep an eye out on ebay for Sunpro gauges, you can get them very cheap (under $10 per gauge) and if you get from the same seller they'll combine shipping.

if you are going all out, maybe keep an eye out for a used spearco intercooler. If you want something very large and cheap for the performance, grab 2 SRT-4 intercoolers, have the end tanks cut off weld them together and make new endtanks. These stock coolers can be had for as low as $100 shipped on the srt forums.

I have just ordered mine, has anyone gotten theirs yet?

i believe sanderson block huggers are considered the standard for the swap.

all depends on your setup, in the turbo dodge world many guys get 250-300whp out of 2.2L 4cyl's with 2.5" piping connected together with truck radiatior hose. (ghetto, but it works) I'm sure if you list what you are shooting for you can be helped more.

get a dog, a really mean dog.

small blocks are small blocks; big blocks are big blocks; LS motors are LS motors

is there any idea of a price that is posted anywhere? Any pics to compare style? thanks

I've seen sets of sprint car headers on ebay and i was wondering if they would clear the stearing shaft in the Z or not. I'm not looking for crazy power, but i figure the sprint car would be easier to make an exhaust of of compared to the block huggers. thanks

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Moroso Spiral Core It's a good muffler and takes a good bit of the backfire out without killing flow. I'll be putting one on my minivan, my buddy had one on his TII daytona shelby Z for awhile. It works great, and is cheap.

383 is a 350 with a "stroker" crank. The crank is the same size as the 400, with smaller? journels i believe. hope it helps.

the tires are the same, but i've been running them since about april i believe. I'll rotate the tires this weekend and see how that goes.

i went to the local "specialized car shop" and spend about an hour there, they couldn't help me with spacers. I called American Racing, they told me that I would have to have a machine shop make the spacers for me.

Hey guys, I have a '74 260 that has Tokico struts/springs and american racing wheels. The wheels are the "outlaw II" style so I am told, I pulled them off of a non running '79 280ZX. I have had the wheels on the car since March and there has always been a slight thud in the rear that made me think the wheels were not centered, I took them off and put them back on man times, making sure that all of the lugs were sitting in the tapered groove properly. This did not solve the problem. The wheels seem to be centered, but when the rear wheels are installed witht the centercap off the hub looks off center compared to the opening in the center of the wheel. Today I got to thinking that maybe it was the mounting in the Diff that has worn out and makes the rear bounce like the wheels are uncentered? Any help is appreciated.