rudypoochris

How long do those tires last on the street?

They are the same.

87 300zxt's before the 5th month of the year (May) I believe, did not come with LSD's. Remove the cover to be sure.

Sounds great! I thought that the output splines of the subaru R180's were a different diameter than the 280z's. I could be wrong though, but that is cool!

I have messaged JSK asking about the front 12.19X1.25 four piston brake kit in group buy setup for 5+ persons... awaiting response. UPDATE: No group buy. Here is what Juan said: "Unfortunatly I can not. I contacted my parts supplier and they couldn't knock off anything less for me. I tried all possible ways to do this. Our parts do not compromise quality and you are getting well recognized Wilwood brakes. You can save buy just purchasing my adapter setup for $249.99. The remaining hardware will only cost you $445 from www.pitstopusa.com Thats a total of $695. Shipping between me and www.pitstopusa.com will not cost you more than $30 Versus my $769.99 and $65 for shipping. WIL160-2894 right rotor WIL160-2895 left rotor WIL120-7429-X calipers (don't forget left and right!) lines ALL48112 x 2 Metric adapters EAR989545 x 2 Caliper line flares AERFBM2511 x 2 brake pads HAWHB101M800" Hope that helps. Your total before ordering should be $445.15 I believe.

Shall we try for a group buy at JSK?

Well it seems like only the bucket is welded on from the picture. If you are just going for the fender replacement you might be better off unbolting it from the bucket...?

Bump big time...

$610 Back in 2003 I believe?

Ya, the richmond pnp gouges. But they have a good selection. Now that I am in college up near sac I can reasonably go to Rancho... the mother of all PnP's.

SWEEET! Im doing a 5.0L HO into a 240z swap aswell and I am in your area! If you go to the richmond PnP it is $335 for the complete motor with EFI I believe. When I went to pick EFI I got the whole thing for $380 minus the motor.... They wouldnt charge me for just a motor. Sucked. And I dont even need the EFI now, oh well. See you around! BTW. My brother has an 83 Bubble Back Capri, crimson cat, with a 90 HO in it. Didn't know anyone else liked those cars!

Wow! That looks really easy to do. For some reason, just looking at how the S13 suspension is setup, it just doesn't look very strong. 3 bolts trying to hold a strut straight at 1.5' of extension supporting 500+lbs just bugs me.

Well just for kicks I found a wheel I liked and requested it in 17X9" with a -13 offset for our 114.3X4 pattern. I was going to go 16X9 but you just can't find tires for that size easily anymore. In anycase join me if you like! http://www.therotaspecialist.com/products.cfm?wheel_style=P45R My 16X8" rotas were $650 for the whole set, so expect a pretty decent deal if this does indeed take off. They also look really cool when the center is set deep inside and the spokes connect near the edge. A 255/40/17 is also pretty cheap for these... there are also decently priced 275/40's but those might rub the fenders, but if your flaring it, who cares!

What?????? The calculator with a .467 Cd and 35ftsq frontal area (much more than an S30 has) and 3000lb curb (much more than any 240z with a 200lb drive weighs) says that to get to 150mph you would need 382.4hp.... How did you get 385?? The calculator returns results mroe in the 250hp area to get to 150mph in an S30... In anycase, I think the calculator is cool. Nice link.

Intresting! Anymore info on those "Vintage wheels"?

If you turned one CV and the other did not rotate then the unit must have been spinning the driveshaft. In either case, this is an indication of a busted LSD. Probably just needs new clutches. Are you sure the E-Brake wasn't sticking? How much resistance was there to turning? The diff could just have a really weak breakaway setting though. Try holding a cv in place while turning the driveshaft. You should not be able to turn the driveshaft. If it has gone bad, you basically have an open diff. You could easily check this by doing a burnout/peel out too btw. Just check the rubber patches. You should be able to feel it too.

Those are always up on EBay usually from the same seller. I have seen those at Buy It now for around $600 If i remember correctly for the past couple of years. I was seriously contemplating buying them, but I think it is such an iconic mustang wheel that it would look sort of funny on my build.

I got the same result aswell. But it does not matter anyway. After closer inspection those headers would not fit my build anyway. Plus the pipe length looks a little odd as far as optimal scavaging/flow. But thanks for the post!

So basically can the system run like this....: Crank -> Waterpump -> A/C -> Tensioner -> Dummy A/C Pully -> Crank.... Or do I need a dummy for the P/S aswell. Basically can I get away with just one pully on the drivers side of the block and have what I need?

NAPA Machine shops will change the studs out for alot cheaper then buying MM hubs. I believe you want Nissan Quest studs (atleast for the S30 you do). They are longer. Auxilary wrote a post about it a while ago.

Oh man, the mount has been modified alot. I am honestly not sure what the specs on it are anymore. Next time I am at my brothers (where my car resides) I can jot down all of that information as well as some more detailed pictures. I believe the bottom of the Ford mount is acctually rather high. Mine is 1" in the center as opposed to the normal 2" sq tubing. The top of it sits about 1/8-1/4" down from the center of the pan, if I remember correctly. At that angle you can't even really see it. My mount lowers the engine since the bolt holes are significantly lower than the normal Alsil's mount. Look closely at the positioning of them:

I believe I have just the regular foxbody oil pan. It is the double sump. With the smaller sump up front. We had to make a new oil drain for the front sump since the original one is pretty much inaccessible.

I am having a difficult time finding a powersteering dummy pully for the 1994 5.0L. Do they not exist? Do I not need one? I am not running A/C or smog pump either. Basically there is only the tensioner, crank, waterpump, and alt. I need something for the driver side of the block. Should I be looking for A/C eliminators instead? Also, I do not need a smog pump eliminator do I? Can I not just route the belt from crank up around waterpump to alt then to tensioner then to PS/AC then back? Does anyone know what the box that goes over the T-5's clutch fork to keep water and such out is called? I am missing one of those and would very much like to have one. Thanks a ton!