rudypoochris

I guess, i think i will reply by suggesting a system where maybe they could put it in their online catalog as simply a possible buy. And when a certain number of people have agreed to pay make it official. But does anyone have anything to say about the spring thing. What offset would be needed to amke that 16X8 fit with stock springs and not stick out of the fenders, im under the impression it can be done. Or maybe they can simply have the version for coil overs and charge extra for people running stock springs and simply include a spacer for them.

MSA guys: We have already talked to them about making the rewinds in a 16" wheel. Konig has no intention to make there wheel in 16". Unless (like you found out) there is a huge prepaid amount of a wheel. 400 wheels is a big order with out knowing if people are actually going to buy them. A lot of people talk the talk but do not walk the walk. I do not think that we are going to offer any wheels for the early z in 16X8. The reason for that is because it is really difficult to get a 8 inch wide wheel to fit on an early z car without coilovers. We have tried using the Panasport 16X7 wheels with 0 offset but there*were some complaints (using certain tires) about the tires rubbing. We*are now getting the*Panasports*with a positive 6 offset to correct the problem of the tires rubbing. There would be numerous problems with a 16X8 wheel because we would have to carry numerous offsets for people with coilovers and with standard springs.* With standard springs people will complain about the wheel hiting the fenders or the wheels sticking out from the car. You will have to find people to buy 800 wheels for people with and with out coilovers. I am sorry but geting*the Konig Rewind wheels in a 16X8 is not something that we are interested in doing. Any ideas?

Heh i hope we can, it is a long shot though, but i wonder if MSA is already a dealer (b/c they sell imagine, rewind, and a few others) maybe that would provide the posibility of needing less orders or less expense per order, I don't know. We will see.

Iono seems just like with any carb if you get into the gas fast at a lower rpm it heasitates because there is too much gas and not enough air, just my thought.

I just asked konig the price per wheel if they made 16X8 watanabe knock offs with the 4X114.3 pattern and the correct offset, it would be $78 per wheel. That isn't bad, but the down side would be that MSA would have to order 400X78 = About $31,000 in konig wheels. Granted, they might be willing to take the hit if they have enough guarenteed buyers. So i mailed them, hopefully they will respond positively.

Also note that 215hp in 1963 isn't 215 now, probably more around much less.

Doubt a 9" will work with out flares, thank god i love ZG's. I must of read 0 offset was correct for flares which makes sense now. Honestly the best way is to buy the wheel put washers till it fits then have ross or ur local intelligent machine shop make them exactly to spec.

It is acctually the reason i want a 510 now. Granted they are quite different their designs do share a good deal of similarity. Are they based on the same platform (not sure if they called it/used it that way back then)?

More and more im thinking driving a car hard isn't so bad. I don't know it always seems like the ones that were driven soft and pampered are the first to go. The explorer i drive has 170k miles on the first engine no rebuild and it sees about 300 rpms short of redline pretty much weekly if not every other day. Definatly 1000 short of redline everytime. Everything is going fine. Also that tech article on driving hard to break it in also gave me a new perspective on things. Im not going to thrash the break in on the next car i get but atleast ill try all different corners of the powerband, everything in moderation, even moderation i guess. back on topic, i don't understand how the car manufacturers can see sticks as "old news" when the next generation seems to be infatuated with cars? Granted these people aren't going to be buying luxury or more expensive cars now (which explains the lack of manual) but many normal cars don't offer them. And trying to get one on a truck/suv now adays is ridiculous. The nissan xterra seems to be the only one that offers good HP and a stick, the rest seem to offer a stick only when the output sucks.

Thats a sick kpgc10 right there, cept for the back wheels and a little too little tire on the fronts, makes it look cheap and rice. But other then that that is exactly what i was getting at

oops sorry i assumed you had a 240z dur, i jumped to conclusions. Leave ur IRS the way it is the r200 should be more then enough for an sbf, for a bbf maybe not but even so.

intresting.... im going to read up on the cylinder heads of the MB's, i should check if the bolt patterns match up first though, this weekend ill see.

Well i think 500 is about the limit before really beefing up internals and what not. At that point the 351 starts to make more sense from what i read. What is sweet imho is that you can get a brand new 302 with all the goodies and 300 hp for $1800 and for $2300 you get 340 and $3k 370 hp, at central coast. I just like that company in general but what im getting at is with the ton of after market support, decent power, lightweight, and its proven durability, it is a killer engine to swap into a wide variety of cars. But each to his own chevy is cool too

HOw much hp/tq are you running just for curiosity? Also, is the actually diff broken or just the case (i hope just the case!)

I would recommend keeping the IRS and simply getting an r200 from a 1975+ stick shift Z car. They are also found in a wide range of nissan cars. It should be able to stand up to almost all the punishment a sbf can put out, you might want LSD though, which is another topic you can search for in the drivetrain forum.

intresting ill check it out next time im down near del valle. Sounds like fun.

What rpm are you at? If it is low rpm sounds like your just bogging the engine a bit. Do you run EFI or carb?

Ya im going to have to agree with that. It isnt a 240z is it? (i think it is a 280z) so it is less valuable anyway (blue book wise, i think), i would just look for another....

I think you can do much better, for the money, with some decent mods on a mk1 mr2, granted that is used car and would need some mods, but it still would be alot cheaper. But to my main point, where the hell are these twisties!?!? i live in the east bay and i can't find any except from oakland to san leandro, and near crow canyon, even so those ones suck compared to my favorite spot which is in italy, so kinda out of luck.

Does it run, look under it for rust and bent frame rails, check if everything seems straight in general. Then buy a 240z, hehe just kidding, that looks pretty decent, anything can be fixed with the right amount of time and money, how much are you looking to put into it.

I am not positive but i believe the L series 6 cylinder engines were based off of a mercedes block that was out around the same time. I think it was fetured int he 68-71 280sl. I was just curious if anyone knows anything about this, and if certain parts are interchangeable or not. Maybe the heads? althrough i believe the mercedes heads deposit exhaust on the right not left.

ahh if it is bucking then yes very bad thats lugging. It gets power in then it is insufficent for the load then it gets it in back and forth just barely staying alive. Ya i would imagine that causes a ton of stress on all the parts pretty much. Can anyone explain to me why clutch chatter is?